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What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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ZionXIX
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Re: What did you do to your Volvo today?

Post by ZionXIX »

In the past I have been off by a tooth or two on a timing belt change and I used an old plastic credit card fed in between the belt and a cam gear. Then just rotate the cam gear to the desired position and it's perfect.
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
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foggydogg
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Post by foggydogg »

FireFox31 wrote: 26 Mar 2022, 16:33 Pressing out the axle shaft with that tool looks intense. I have always used a wood block and gentle hammer taps to pop it out. Maybe I should be more careful and use a press.
Nothing on this poor car goes gently. It took two days on-and-off with a hand drilling sledge on the OTC ears. It fought the entire way - down to the last 5mm.
Of the many hundreds of cars I've wrenched on, this is a first for me, and the OTC tool. Bought it decades ago to do my first brake job on a '57 Chevy, and the one and only time I had the rear drums off my 1800S; the only reason I had to do that was to fix a parking brake issue.
I think this car hates me. I'm starting to hate it back.
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
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98 V70R x2, Silver Junkyard rescue, Coral Red
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

ZionXIX wrote: 27 Mar 2022, 07:34 In the past I have been off by a tooth or two on a timing belt change and I used an old plastic credit card fed in between the belt and a cam gear. Then just rotate the cam gear to the desired position and it's perfect.
That is a brilliant idea.
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ThaddeusTheBold
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Post by ThaddeusTheBold »

The timing belt is installed, and I think it's right. Car idles and revs fine, I let it sit and idle up to full temp while I cleaned up the 35,000 tools and pieces of debris that were scattered everywhere. I had let the thing sit overnight with a fresh coolant fill, and no signs of leaks before I commenced this morning, and none once pressurized. The last bump in the road was where I had to concede to necessity and remove the harmonic balancer pulley, something I wanted to avoid at all costs. But it came off and went back fine in the end. Thank heaven for air wrenches.

This, ladies and gents, is the last timing belt I'm going to change on any car. I'm sadly forced to conclude I'm too old for this crap.

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Post by 454cid »

ThaddeusTheBold wrote: 27 Mar 2022, 12:34 The last bump in the road was where I had to concede to necessity and remove the harmonic balancer pulley, something I wanted to avoid at all costs.
Why did you need to remove it?
This, ladies and gents, is the last timing belt I'm going to change on any car. I'm sadly forced to conclude I'm too old for this crap.
You need a warm place (or warm weather) to do it! Working in the cold is terrible.
1996 850
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ThaddeusTheBold
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Post by ThaddeusTheBold »

There was some bolt/superstructure thing in the way that wouldn't easily let the timing belt past, at the very bottom of the path. I suppose I could have wiggled the belt around it but after half an hour of trying I was worried I'd damage the teeth on the belt, so I just took the balancer off. I was worried because I didn't have the engine locked down such that it wouldn't rotate, but I counterheld it with the old serpentine belt and got lucky.

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Post by abscate »

ThaddeusTheBold wrote: 27 Mar 2022, 13:33 There was some bolt/superstructure thing in the way that wouldn't easily let the timing belt past, at the very bottom of the path. I suppose I could have wiggled the belt around it but after half an hour of trying I was worried I'd damage the teeth on the belt, so I just took the balancer off. I was worried because I didn't have the engine locked down such that it wouldn't rotate, but I counterheld it with the old serpentine belt and got lucky.
You can get it past but it’s hard on the belt. I pull off the damper on timing jobs because I don’t want to be back in for 105,000 miles
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Post by abscate »

Fought the PD rack hard lines. Hung engine , dropped subframe, got supply line in, stripped return line. Weather cool but dry
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Post by FireFox31 »

Did you buy new Volvo rack hard lines or make your own? I recently read that the flares on those are weird and the M12 x 1 fittings are very hard to find.

I only just now realized that rspi is RobertDIY. All these decades, I had no idea. I'd think, "Oh, rspi replied with another RobertDIY video. That's a reminder to search his channel before asking here." Feels like I've been reading rspi posts since before RobertDIY was a household name. The YouTube link in his signature even still points to his old YouTube channel (which redirects).
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Blue 2000 V70 NA manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
Green 2000 V70 NA automatic, "the G70" - awaiting 2nd rehab
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Blue 1998 V70 T5 manual, "the T5M" - awaiting rehab

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Post by abscate »

The lines aren’t flares actually, they are M14 x1.5 standard threads. I’ll be finding my taps and dies today and chasing threads to see if I cam recover them. They are hard to thread because of access and the hard lines are always pulling them off square.

The pressure line is a steel nut, the return line an alloy Nut which strips just looking at it.

On edit - measured them today. They are larger, like M17 or M18 by1.5 thread.

To be verified
Empty Nester
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