Tests for an inexperience P2 Owner.

[NEusa]

Hello All,

I'm new to the forum, I have a 2007 S60 that's in pretty decent shape that I'm trying to plan whether or not I can get a couple more years out of it. It has 176k on it, a timing belt replaced at 118k, and it's exceedingly hard/loud over bumps.

The thing runs nicely, I just don't know what to do with it's front suspension. I've had it two years, and I don't mind working on it myself (I have access to a very nice garage of my soon to be father-in-law's).

I am not opposed to just a complete rebuild of the most of the front suspension, which would be spring seats, struts, control arms, ball joints, sway bar end links, tie rod ends, and perhaps motor mounts, but it would be nice if there were tests to narrow in on which one was the problem.

If it simply turns out to be, "hey, you have a 15 year old volvo, replace everything" I won't be upset, but it would be nice to zero in on specifics.

Things like subframe mounts, I don't really have the capability to fix, but I could do the ipd inserts if I do everything else.

Is there a laundry list of tests on these p2's, or is it truly a replace as much as possible proposition?

[jonesg]

It's probably time for ball joints and control arms. Mine were shot at the same mileage. You can visually see if the rubber inserts are ripped in the control arms.
Drop links are easy to swap out.
Test with a large pry bar.
Inspect ballpoint by jacking tire 1 inch off the ground and place a pry bar under the tire. Lay down and observe the balljoint as you compress the suspension with the pry bar under the tire, again see youtube videos.
Pry bar sets are cheap at Harbour freight.
You should get another 100k miles on the car if you keep it maintained. They regularly hit 300k miles.

Also, check motor mounts as a source of noise. My top mount was ripped.

[Blacklab467]

Congratulations on your purchase! And welcome to the forum. I would recommend some of the excellent resources on this forum for troubleshooting and recognizing worn parts. At 176K miles I would suggest checking all of the engine mounts, ball joints, control arms, link kits, and motor mounts and strut spring seats and mounts. I would discourage changing struts if yours are OEM, they last a really long time! Do not cheap out on other parts and get lured in by the aftermarket, use only Volvo branded parts for the front end. It may well be time for subframe bushings but check them first, and don't bother with inserts, the volvo bushings are about 40 bucks and easy to change. These cars will easily provide hundreds of thousands or miles of enjoyable service if well maintained, and they will spit out Chinese aftermarket parts almost as quickly as the fasteners will rust!

[SuperHerman]

There are two schools of thought. 1) Replace it all and do it once or 2) Change only what is needed.

To consider - how many times do you have to take the same part off to replace the part one back? Usually this translates to it is only 5 minutes more of work and the cost of the part. Another thing to consider is the cost of an alignment. You may change a tie rod, get an alignment, then change a spring seat and get an alignment and then change a control arm and get an alignment.

If you have the budget I say do it all and align it once.

[abscate]

Roll it the 45 minutes down to Albany Volvo Central and look for the YMCA……

[Krons]

I own a 2002 with 180k, and recently bought a 2008 with 140k. On the 2008 I recently did engine mounts, ball joints, control arms, link kits, and strut/spring assemblies. Part of my logic was to get a baseline, do it all while I was there and only need one alignment.

I ended up getting TRQ parts of eBay as the price was appealing, I know many here believe they won't last. Time will tell, initial build quality looks good.

Make sure to do the glove test on your PCV too.

[darylrobert]

the front suspension on these cars are high maintenance. ive literally done nothing on the rear as everything looks in good condition. The front has needed non stop attention. Have a close check of the rubber boots, if any are torn the joint is gone. Take the car to an alignment shop if they say 'they cant do an alignment' its because there is too much wear.

[darylrobert]

There are two schools of thought. 1) Replace it all and do it once or 2) Change only what is needed.

To consider - how many times do you have to take the same part off to replace the part one back? Usually this translates to it is only 5 minutes more of work and the cost of the part. Another thing to consider is the cost of an alignment. You may change a tie rod, get an alignment, then change a spring seat and get an alignment and then change a control arm and get an alignment.

If you have the budget I say do it all and align it once.

the alignment shop says im one of their best customers

[patcal]

My 2004 has 186k. Struts were done before I bought it Feb 2021. Today it's control arms, tie rods & just did sway bar links. Car will last you many more miles with proper care.