v70 2001 battery drain

boogy · Post by **boogy** » 12 Mar 2013, 12:26

hi

I have diagnosed a battery drain to fuses 28 and 32 (located at the side of the dashboard) labelled interior lights etc. So if car left overnight with these fuses pulled, battery is fine next morning. If they are left in, battery can be dead after 2 days.

Have checked at night and there are no obvious lights showing after the lights go through their dimming sequence.

Battery is new and has been load checked.

I'm looking for some pointers on how to narrow this down?

Not sure if I can get hold of wiring diagrams any more.

Thanks

Post by **mikealder** » 12 Mar 2013, 12:41

Probably one of the door open switches sticking, these are internal to the door and form part of the door lock rather than the plastic plunger types you used to find fitted in the A pillar. With the car locked look through the small gap between the doors and car and see if any of the red edge warning lights are switched on (they shouldn't be) - Mike

boogy · Post by **boogy** » 12 Mar 2013, 15:51

Hi

Thanks for coming back on this one.

Just popped outside, put the two fuses (28 & 32) back in. I couldn't see any red edge warning lights on the driver side front door or any place they might be if bulb is not working. Are there lights that are on the edge of the door to warn that door is open?

fuses 28 & 32 seems to include interior lights, dashboard and central locking (immobiliser?)

It begs the question as to what model I really have...?

Is there a way to definely nail the model?

Or have I completely misunderstood, or missed the lights.

When I used the central locking button (immobiliser?) on the fob, I noticed that the drivers side clicks down then clicks up - I can then shut it manually with the key.

I also noticed (amazing how quiet it is out there in the dark) that there is a buzzing noise coming from behind the central console

Thanks

buhao · Post by **buhao** » 05 Jun 2015, 20:44

Did you ever find your issue? I am having battery rundown overnight and when I searched your post came up

harryhendo · Post by **harryhendo** » 09 Jun 2015, 06:34

The classic way to attack this problem is to remove the positive side battery cable, then place a multimeter set to AMPs (to measure draw, not voltage) between the positive battery cable and the positive battery post. If there is a short in the system, you will see a draw.

Note that there are very few circuits in the car that are always powered. So that narrows things down quite a bit. Think of what is always powered. The starter. The alternator. The clock. The radio. That being said, there is always a very small (a few milliamp) draw from the clock and radio, but if you see a 100 mA or more draw, you know there is a short somewhere.

Begin with the starter. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery first, then disconnect the positive cable from the starter solenoid. Replace the negative battery cable. Do you see a big draw still? It's not the starter then. Do the same procedure for the alternator (often an internally failing alternator will cause a draw).

If you're out of luck on those two culprits, then open up the fuse panel, and remove each fuse in turn. When the draw reduces to a few mA, you know you have hit the circuit upon which the short resides. Then it is just a matter of tracing that circuit to the culprit component that has the short.

Charliewheels · Post by **Charliewheels** » 30 Apr 2022, 16:18

I am having the same type of problem with the battery drain. My passenger door locks and then pops back up soon after locking. I have pulled the fuse for that door, # 36 I believe. We'll see. going to check with the multi meter.

Hangya90 · Post by **Hangya90** » 13 May 2022, 07:22

I head very similiar problem in the begining, as the OP stated, I learnd to a sequence to close the car, and then its surefire it will not drain the battery.

In my case the passenger door sometimes stick open, even the DIM give me message about its with red triangle, "pessenger door open"
-if I use the drivers door lock in, will lock all dors, driver side get pop back
-if I press the button again, all doors open, the hit again all doors close and message dissapear.
-So every now and then, when locking the car, and drivers door pop back will need to do the sequence.

As I understand the system its a "safety feature" as if any doors left open(or not closed properly) the drivers door, will sign you (when pop back open) "hey, not all doors locked!"

All in all not closing doors, will get you the lights kept open, which drains the battery.
In my case I started to change bulps to led, so the draw is lower, but was only a bandaid.

Also if you have Vida, you can set the light duration to 5 sec, which in this case helpful!

Most probably as other mentioned its a problem with the switch in the door mechanic, but its pricey, PITA to remove, so I hunting for a diagram or someone who did splice the loom inside the door, and connect the switch to close position forever, with this I will be happy.
Anyone has exact details how to do this?

I hope it can help with your draining issue!

My Car.: Volvo V70 T5 2001

ignatz · Post by **ignatz** » 14 May 2022, 09:14

Maybe not related to the above problems, my 01 V70 2.4t sometimes a door lock will not go down. Maybe because I noticed this and open and close the door affected, I never had a battery drain.
I admit to being the old guy that double checks the door locks after hitting the lock button. My car also senses crossing State boundary lines where stuff like this happens more often.