1998 V70 Parking Brake Adjustment (again?)

twlaub · Post by **twlaub** » 24 May 2008, 15:11

I've been reading in this forum (and elsewhere) on how to adjust the parking brake on my 1998 V70. I found the door in the console cubby and removed it. I saw the large torx nut (can't do it with a screw driver, you need a 90-degree tools to get at it) and turned it clockwise. It was very loose. I turned until it was tight but that did not seem to adjust the brake much, if at all. It just seemed to tighten something that was loose.

Is there another way to adjust the tension on the parking brake?

I also saw some posts discussing starting at the rear wheels.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 May 2008, 15:16

You might have a broken cable if that's not adjusting it...best that you get under the car and take a look at the cable going to the e-brakes.

twlaub · Post by **twlaub** » 24 May 2008, 15:34

Time to show the extent of my lack of knowledge. I'm still learning about these volvos. What is the e-brake and where do I find the cable going to them? Is there any adjustment there? Once I'm in the right place, I can usually fix things.

The cable doesn't feel broken because it has tension, just not enough. The brake works to an extent. However, when I parking in my inclined driveway, put it in park, and set the brake, it will roll back a bit and settle. You can see the gear shift (auto) move when it does this.

I just wanted to tighten the brake cable so the lever did not go all the way up when engaged.

Any more advice?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 May 2008, 18:36

e-brake is another name for emergency brake. If you get under the car, you will see a wire protruding from under where you're tightening it. Follow it all the way back to where the brakes are on your car. There is tension so you might just continue to tighten it but I'm thinking something is wrong with the wire, even if there is some tension for it not to be tightening up. My suspicion is that one side is broken and you're feeling tension from the good side only.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 24 May 2008, 19:14

There are two adjustment points for the parking/emergency brake. The most important is the adjustment at the rear rotor. There is a hole in the rear rotor that you can slip a screwdriver thought and adjust the "star" adjuster to preload the brakes. You tighten them to just a just drag condition but rotate them and re-adjust them several times to get the brake shoes centered.

At the point where they are properly adjusted at the rear the cable slack can be adjusted out with the screw under the console.

...Lee

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 May 2008, 21:06

Thanks Lee...I've just never had an issue with mine. However, logically, I was thinking what I wrote.

twlaub · Post by **twlaub** » 25 May 2008, 07:15

Is the preload adjustment at the rear wheels done with the brake level engaged or off? Should I loosen the nut on the lever before adjusting at the rear to get max adjustment room at the lever after having done the rear? I'm guessing lever down/off with nut loosened to adjust at the rear. Thanks for all this great advice.

Tom

Solutech · Post by **Solutech** » 25 May 2008, 09:21

If your going to play with the rear brakes it's a good idea to jack it up with the rear wheels off and remove the drums and clear any dust out of there .

Once its tidy put the hub back on and fasten it back on . Leave rear wheels off the deck for now .

To adjust the handbrake (E-Brake if your american) you need to have the brake off to start with .

Adjust the rears as described by Lee one notch at a time until the wheel locks.

Now back it off a notch at a time until the rear wheel turns freely .

Repeat for the other side .

Get in the car and raise the handbrake lever 3 clicks up . Check to see if wheels are locked , from what you say they probably wont be .

Adjust the cable at the lever to get more tension and check again for locked wheels .

Do this until the rears are locked up . Now release the handbrake and check the wheels turn freely .

If you have taken it too far the wheels will be dragging in which case loosen the cable off a bit at he lever until it locks the wheels at 3 clicks and releases fine .

That should do it .

If you havent already Id recommend you download the haynes manual stickied at the top of the page . This should show you how to strip[ down and adjust the braking system .

twlaub · Post by **twlaub** » 26 May 2008, 16:01

Thanks for all the advice. It got me almost there. I finally found the "hole in the rotor." It is really one of the lug bolt holes. I could look through one with a light and see a spring. I'm guessing it was a tensioner on the star adjuster I'm supposed to turn. HOWEVER, even with the brake off and the transmission in neutral I could not turn the wheel. This is an AWD vehicle. When I tried to turn the rotor it would try to turn the drive shaft.

OH! It just hit me. I probably need to have both wheels off the ground to turn either one of them. Is that right?

Also please confirm that the hole I'm looking for is a lug bolt hole.

Do I need to have the transmission in neutral?

Tom

twlaub · Post by **twlaub** » 26 May 2008, 16:02

Also to get both wheels off the ground I'll have to use jack stands. Where do you usually place the jack stands on these vehicles?