2006 V70 Motor Swap method

[miner1no]

So my 2006 V70 has 0psi compression on number four, put a camera in there and can't get a good view of the valves, suspect one is bent no idea why, the mechanic was driving it for a driveshaft replacement test drive and it started to misfire, got it back to the shop checked the coils, and started blowing ignition fuses, taped up the cracked and broken ignition coil wires, fuses stoppped blowing, still skipping, and the compression was a 0psi on #4. It has 200,000 miles on it. I've decided with the used car market the way it is and the price of shop labor to replace the motor myself. So the easiest method, pull motor and tranny out the hood with a lift, separate the motor and trannny and pull just the motor, drop the motor from underneath (which my mechanic suggested). Plan on replacing the leaking steering rack as well, do a timing belt and water pump on the 71k motor going in. Any suggestions best motor pull methods, and/or also do while your in there stuff?

[abscate]

Much easier to pull it up, about half the labor

[vtl]

Burnt exhaust valve most likely.

I'd say, it's about same labor, down or up. Much easier if you do it on a car lift, in that case you can lower the whole subframe.

Up:



Clearance was real tight, I needed a load leveler badly, since you have to dance transmission around ABS block.



Going through bottom would require lifting the car up at least 20" or so.



Lowering and then raising subframe in garage is PIA, the worst.



This time I needed only the transmission, but I think 2 ton hoist still has capacity to lower the subframe with engine and transmission still attached to it.



Thinking about your case now, I'd pull it up.

Don't forget to replace the rear main seal and torque converter while you have access.

[vtl]

Actually, if it's a valve, and the engine was taken care of (short and regular oil change intervals, not overheated), you may just rebuild the cylinder head. Or the engine.

1.5 years ago I managed to do it with the engine block still sitting in engine bay. It cost me $3k, which seems a lot, but I had to buy a lot of precision tools. And the only old parts I left were the main bearings, which I know/hope were good, judging by the low mechanical wear of the rest of the engine. I even re-honed cylinder sleeves, with crankshaft still sitting in place and replaced the very expensive VVT hubs, what the heck =)

[SteveV70]

What’s the compression on the other cylinders?
One at zero and the rest ok,….I’d go the route the previous poster suggested. Head job.
But definitely determine that’s the cause when you get the head off, and it’s not cracked rings etc.
If it’s definitely a valve issue and you can confirm that,…That’s what I’d do.

[miner1no]

The compression on the other cylinders is 145. I debated pulling the head, but with 200,000 hard infrequent oil changes on the motor I opted to replace the whole thing with a 71k mile motor for 1500$, and a turbo for 200$. Not including my labor. The turbo was sending lots of oil into the aftercooler lines, suspect that was the root cause of excessive oil comsumption.. I can also have better access to replace the steering rack and knuckle that have both given me trouble. I would like to find out what is causing the zero compression. I'll post again when I pop the head from the old motor.