Radiator replacement
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vltjr
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 7 January 2011
- Year and Model: 2004 XC70
- Location: Austin, Texas USA
- Been thanked: 1 time
Re: Radiator replacement
JDS60R - Thank you, thank you...etc! I wish I would have had that section earlier this week, but better late than never. It's nice to know that Volvo recognizes that parts of the procedure require more than two hands. Fortunately I got the entire assembly into place yesterday without having to disconnect any refrigerant lines or components (although it took most of my working day). I did it by supporting the condensor in place with a floor jack, and then threading the left (driver's) side of the intercooler up between the refrigerant line and the drier and then lifting the right side up and in place flush with the condenser. I used wire ties where the upper two M8 bolts would attach to hold the IC and condenser together. By the way, in order to feed the IC up into position in the way that I did (left side first), I had to first lift the front of the vehicle about 10" more to have sufficient clearance. After that getting the radiator into place was relatively easy. The only area of reistance was the right IC intake which the radiator had to be sort of forced (gently) over. Note that throughout this procedure care has to be taken to avoid damaging the cooling fins on any of the three components (ask me how I...etc.) At this point I loosly attached all the threaded fasteners - and that's where I am right now. I'm going to check to make sure that no hoses, wires, or electrical connectors are bein impinged before tightening the assembly and reattaching the various hoses. I'll post an update later for anyone who's interested.
- pkc303
- Posts: 600
- Joined: 30 April 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 T-5R Yellow
- Location: Houston, Texas
- Has thanked: 1 time
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Thanks for the information. I'll need to do this repair in about a week or so. I may post pictures, depending on how it goes.
1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Yellow
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
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helmbelly
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 18 June 2014
- Year and Model: 2001 xc70
- Location: new orleans
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Just wanted to help de-mystify changing the radiator. I just did it and it is simple -and I'm no pro just a backyarder. I took it out thru the top and never jacked car. About 3 hrs. To get it out. Couple hours fussing with them while out (inside shop listening to radio) then a couple more to button it all back up. My car is a 2001 XC70.
1. disconnect the electrical connectors. I marked them both ends with colored tape cause I work in the camera dept and have every color on earth. Remove fan - its like 2 nuts and lifts right out.
2. disconnect/drain the coolant hoses. This is basic basic. get the two air pipes out of your way - its just a couple more hose clamps.
Don't remove the back of the pipe that goes over engine. Leave the firewall end alone.
3. take off the two tranny oil lines. On my lower the green plastic was mostly gone so I pushed in a piece of thin plastic - a squeeger? what they use to disconnect computer connectors. and wiggled the pipe like hell while keeping force - both hands and worry it backwards n out. Cork the ends.
4. Bolts they are hidden all over but none are hard to get at, all come off easy for me on this one. Don't belabor it - just get all the bolts out - research where they are - but you'll find em.
5. I took out the big vertical bolts last (on the ears of the rad) and then the whole sandwich starts to drop - you'll find the last couple bolts and clearance issues at this point - it gets real obvious.
6. Facing car, knees on bumper I lowered the rad/intercooler sandwich so the right corner drops to the deck and clears the AC pipe. then lift up the left side so it's dutched or at an extreme diagonal with left side high - wiggle - clear a pipe and cable as need be and it lifts right out the top. Easy as you please.
Like anything I do I waste hours researching and over complicating - when I go do it it's so much easier than expected!
The rad is not a fun one - it's a pain but don't rush give yourself a couple easy days and it's really straighforward. Def pull it out the top.
I got two new green clips at dealer, $24 (for .40 cents worth of plastic) but that was the worst part. Good luck.
1. disconnect the electrical connectors. I marked them both ends with colored tape cause I work in the camera dept and have every color on earth. Remove fan - its like 2 nuts and lifts right out.
2. disconnect/drain the coolant hoses. This is basic basic. get the two air pipes out of your way - its just a couple more hose clamps.
Don't remove the back of the pipe that goes over engine. Leave the firewall end alone.
3. take off the two tranny oil lines. On my lower the green plastic was mostly gone so I pushed in a piece of thin plastic - a squeeger? what they use to disconnect computer connectors. and wiggled the pipe like hell while keeping force - both hands and worry it backwards n out. Cork the ends.
4. Bolts they are hidden all over but none are hard to get at, all come off easy for me on this one. Don't belabor it - just get all the bolts out - research where they are - but you'll find em.
5. I took out the big vertical bolts last (on the ears of the rad) and then the whole sandwich starts to drop - you'll find the last couple bolts and clearance issues at this point - it gets real obvious.
6. Facing car, knees on bumper I lowered the rad/intercooler sandwich so the right corner drops to the deck and clears the AC pipe. then lift up the left side so it's dutched or at an extreme diagonal with left side high - wiggle - clear a pipe and cable as need be and it lifts right out the top. Easy as you please.
Like anything I do I waste hours researching and over complicating - when I go do it it's so much easier than expected!
The rad is not a fun one - it's a pain but don't rush give yourself a couple easy days and it's really straighforward. Def pull it out the top.
I got two new green clips at dealer, $24 (for .40 cents worth of plastic) but that was the worst part. Good luck.
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cn90
- Posts: 8255
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
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Thanks, great tips...
Just a few tricks:
- Always get new green clips and O-rings. FCPEuro has them.
- Avoid using cork bc debris from cork can get into ATF: not a good idea.
Instead, cut a "finger" off the rubber glove and use rubber band to seal it. Easy trick.
- Rad choice is: Volvo vs Nissens vs others. Info in forum. I'd vote for Volvo (Valeo) bc it has the metal insert in the nipples.
Just a few tricks:
- Always get new green clips and O-rings. FCPEuro has them.
- Avoid using cork bc debris from cork can get into ATF: not a good idea.
Instead, cut a "finger" off the rubber glove and use rubber band to seal it. Easy trick.
- Rad choice is: Volvo vs Nissens vs others. Info in forum. I'd vote for Volvo (Valeo) bc it has the metal insert in the nipples.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
- justanotherhumanoid
- Posts: 72
- Joined: 7 September 2018
- Year and Model: 2006 S60
- Location: San Diego
- Has thanked: 7 times
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I did this not too long ago myself, on my own, also using a floor jack and working slowly. It would have been easier to bring a friend over. Ziptie the intercooler and radiator together into a sandwich. Swing the ac coil out of the way and hang it off a bungee or something. Maneuver the radiator up into the space, one side higher than the other until it clears all lines and obstacles, then use the little extra space that buys you to get the opposite side up past the lines that it would get hung up on if you just went straight up. Have items of various heights on hand to support the sandwich as you slowly work it up into its home. If that's confusing, here are the videos that helped me out:
2006 S60 2.5T AWD - Build Log
do88 intercooler, all aluminum radiator, XC90 aux transmission cooler, magnefine ATF filter, Snabb intake elbow & throttle body pipes, custom oval exhaust, rebuilt 16T swap, 17x8" team dynamics pro race 1.2 wheels, ipd sway bars, R brake swap, Hilton tune, sunroof shade that slides open when I step on the gas and closes when I stand on the brakes.
do88 intercooler, all aluminum radiator, XC90 aux transmission cooler, magnefine ATF filter, Snabb intake elbow & throttle body pipes, custom oval exhaust, rebuilt 16T swap, 17x8" team dynamics pro race 1.2 wheels, ipd sway bars, R brake swap, Hilton tune, sunroof shade that slides open when I step on the gas and closes when I stand on the brakes.
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