DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Front Bilstein TC Strut Tips/Tricks Topic is solved

[erikv11]

Hutchinson is the factory make on the hydraulic mounts, FWIW. That should be a quality part.

[scot850]

I bought the tools from Volvo several years ago for the front and rear strut removal as I got fed up with the fight. I would have offered it but postage would probably been more than the new nuts!

Neil.

[abscate]

Yes abscate, the 3/4” bolts are flexing.

oh...my...god....I am shuddering at the tension in those bolts.

[jreed]

Just wanted to say I love this write up. I used it 8 years ago to replace the front struts on my 850, and I'm about to use it again. While re-reading it, I noticed that the link to the "heeeeee" write up in the first post is no longer available. I found copies of the images and text here and reformatted it in the correct order and saved it as a PDF for easy viewing (attached).

Volvo 850 Strut replacement (heeeeee).pdf

This is a reformatted version of the original lost Volvo 850 strut replacement guide that was posted at http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/

(1.93 MiB) Downloaded 257 times

[FireFox31]

How do you use a torque wrench on the strut cross nut and strut lock nut while a strut rod counterhold is poking through the center of the socket? This is what I've found by researching but I'd like to hear how you've done it.

The following information assumes that the Sachs nut is 21mm and and the rod has a T45 Torx insert or slotted diameter, while the Bilstein nut is 22mm and the rod has a 6mm hex insert. The cross nut requires and lock nut each require 70 Nm torque.

The Haynes manual calls for using Volvo special tools:
999 5467 - Strut lock nut socket with hole in top for counterhold and offset wrench attachment. Shown at the bottom of this page.
999 5468 - Strut rod counterhold. For Sachs strut only? Bilstein uses hex insert.
999 5469 - Cross nut socket
I don't know where to get these, so the alternatives are below.

A deep offset wrench could loosen the lock nut with a counterhold in place, but couldn't tighten it to the proper torque. This Schwaben 21mm / 22mm wrench seems perfect for both Sachs and Bilstein struts.

A torque wrench could be used with an offset adapter. That requires math to change the torque value based on the offset length.

Since the lock nuts are recessed in the strut top, a pass through socket will be needed (with an offset adapter) to reach that depth and allow the counterhold to extend up the center. CTA 3039X05 is 21mm and CTA 3039X06 is 22mm.

CTA A446 is an aftermarket strut rod counterhold (999 5468) and cross nut socket (999 5469). The cross nut socket can be turned with a 27mm wrench or socket while the counterhold sticks out its center. So get a 27mm offset adapter if one exists.

Schwaben makes strut lock nut sockets with "windows" in them for right angle Allen key counterholds. I'm still not sure if the Sachs has a Torx insert which could use this or a flat spot on its diameter which requires a counterhold from above.

Or, do you simply hold the nut still while turning the entire rod from its Torx/hex insert? This seems impossible because you'd first torque rod for the cross nut, then you'd be unable to turn the rod again to torque the lock nut. Perhaps you could turn the rod for the cross nut then use a Schwaben strut lock nut socket to hold the rod and turn the nut.

[abscate]

You can’t use a torque wrench on any counter held fastener because the total torque would be the sum of the torques in the wrench and the counter hold , while the gauge would only measure one torque.

But…. Once the counter hold stops moving , the static torque falls to a “ low value” and you will be really close to the total torque.

I’ve always just swagged the torque on the cross nuts. They can be a bit over tightened without I’ll effect. They won’t come loose under spring tension

[bmdubya1198]

Yeah, I've never torqued anything on the struts. I'll torque the mount nuts where they attach to the strut tower, and the bottom two bolts to the knuckle.
Everything else is done by impact or feel.

[abscate]

Yeah, I've never torqued anything on the struts. I'll torque the mount nuts where they attach to the strut tower, and the bottom two bolts to the knuckle.
Everything else is done by impact or feel.

That reminds me of a total fail I did on the E83. I zipped down the control arm bolts with an impact and forgot to,go back and snug them up with counterhold. They loosened up on our next drive. I drove home 50 miles listening carefully to the loose joint making sure it didn’t get worse

[FireFox31]

Thanks for this. The above linked P2 ball joint procedure mentions "A counterhold is not required when angle tightening if the joint has been tightened to 50 Nm. The friction between the ball joint and control arm is greater than between the nut and threads on the ball joint." So with that and abscate's "total torque" info, I will try to tighten the bolts with counterhold to around 50 Nm, then bring it to final 70 Nm torque using a normal socket without the counterhold.

[bmdubya1198]

That reminds me of a total fail I did on the E83. I zipped down the control arm bolts with an impact and forgot to,go back and snug them up with counterhold. They loosened up on our next drive. I drove home 50 miles listening carefully to the loose joint making sure it didn’t get worse

I love remembering stuff like that while driving. I did that with lug nuts twice recently.