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2004 XC70 Instrument Cluster Issues

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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BlackBart
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Re: 2004 XC70 Instrument Cluster Issues

Post by BlackBart »

And now the alarm just went off, out on the street at 7:30AM. But of course no flashers.....

The fob button does nothing, so I just unlocked the drivers door.
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Post by BlackBart »

Xemodex has just emailed me a link to a warranty claims form.......
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Post by BlackBart »

Alarm went off again. I went out and pulled the DIM. Power connection looked normal, all wires in their slots - it’s never been out of the car before this.

The alarm windshield light is still blinking (?)

And I believe I can’t unlock the rear hatch to disconnect the battery.
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Post by BlackBart »

I can't picture how fuses could cause all of this stuff. Do you know which would be the relevant fuses and where? There are three fuse panels on this car I believe - engine compartment, under the dash, and LR side panel, correct?
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DonnVa
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Post by DonnVa »

BlackBart wrote: 02 Sep 2022, 08:37 I can't picture how fuses could cause all of this stuff. Do you know which would be the relevant fuses and where? There are three fuse panels on this car I believe - engine compartment, under the dash, and LR side panel, correct?
I was just getting you to double check everything. I work in electronics (not automotive) and when I install a new or refurbished part in a medical instrument and get a different set of symptoms the first thing I do is double check my work. I make sure I installed it properly and look to see if I bumped something causing it to be disconnected, etc. I was grasping at straws when I said check fuses and voltage. You said you got a complete DIM and you sent them just the circuit board, are you sure you didn’t get someone else’s DIM? Grasping at straws again… If you got the right part and everything is good w/ your install, it sounds like a warranty issue.
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firstv70volvo
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Post by firstv70volvo »

BlackBart wrote: 02 Sep 2022, 08:37 I can't picture how fuses could cause all of this stuff. Do you know which would be the relevant fuses and where? There are three fuse panels on this car I believe - engine compartment, under the dash, and LR side panel, correct?
Many of the problems you're seeing are related to the CEM and it could be because of the DIM and the low speed bus but it's worth checking the fuses related to CEM power, Check fuses 14, 22 and 32 in the passenger compartment, left side of dash. Fuses 22 and 32 supply 12V to the CEM at all times so check the 12V level with these two fuses pulled too. For fuse 14, 12V is switch on when the ignition switch is in position I, check this fuse and check for 12V with this fuse pulled and key in position I.

Some of the problems you're seeing are not related to the low speed bus so this seems more CEM related only but I could be wrong. The fog lights and headlight knob use a single serial communication line to the CEM, not the low speed bus so I would expect the fog lights and headlight/parking light knob to work even if there's problem with the DIM.

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Post by BlackBart »

DonnVa wrote: 02 Sep 2022, 11:38
BlackBart wrote: 02 Sep 2022, 08:37 I can't picture how fuses could cause all of this stuff. Do you know which would be the relevant fuses and where? There are three fuse panels on this car I believe - engine compartment, under the dash, and LR side panel, correct?
I was just getting you to double check everything. I work in electronics (not automotive) and when I install a new or refurbished part in a medical instrument and get a different set of symptoms the first thing I do is double check my work. I make sure I installed it properly and look to see if I bumped something causing it to be disconnected, etc. I was grasping at straws when I said check fuses and voltage. You said you got a complete DIM and you sent them just the circuit board, are you sure you didn’t get someone else’s DIM? Grasping at straws again… If you got the right part and everything is good w/ your install, it sounds like a warranty issue.
No no, I appreciate the advice. Just trying to understand this. The story is my DIM just quit. I made a valiant attempt to reflow it - no dice. Sent it (bare) to Xemodex. They said it would be easier to send me a completed one off the shelf, so in theory I got a tested refurbished DIM including a complete enclosure with gauges and dial pointers. So whatever was wrong with mine should be eliminated by that process.

There's an 8.5x11 "DIM Diagnostics" test (?) sheet which tells me nothing. Looks like a grab from someone's screen.
Last edited by BlackBart on 02 Sep 2022, 12:01, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by BlackBart »

firstv70volvo wrote: 02 Sep 2022, 11:42Check fuses 14, 22 and 32 in the passenger compartment, left side of dash. Fuses 22 and 32 supply 12V to the CEM at all times so check the 12V level with these two fuses pulled too.
Where physically are you checking for 12V? At either side of the fuse holder?
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Post by firstv70volvo »

BlackBart wrote: 02 Sep 2022, 12:01
firstv70volvo wrote: 02 Sep 2022, 11:42Check fuses 14, 22 and 32 in the passenger compartment, left side of dash. Fuses 22 and 32 supply 12V to the CEM at all times so check the 12V level with these two fuses pulled too.
Where physically are you checking for 12V? At either side of the fuse holder?
On one side of the fuse contacts with the fuse pulled, not sure which side but one contact should have 12V when the fuse is pulled.

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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

Oh, the hot side to ground then?
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
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