What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[foggydogg]

Got my cam cover tool yesterday, swapped another set of cams in it and it finally spins freely.

Moved to the oil pan, as I'm tightening the second to last bolt I head the worst sound I've ever heard working on a car Sounded like the pan cracking. I cant find any crack so I tighten the last bolt and go to bed.

As I was putting the oil thermostat this morning I saw what I thought was a crack. Took the oil pan back out, to find absolutely no cracks

Slightly starting to hate working on this car I'm getting used to the 940 with everything being easy to reach

Some cracks in big alloy cast pieces only show up under stress. If you're near a (reasonable) machine shop, ask them to do a dye test for you. Fluorescent penetrant inspection is one method - a trade name is Zyglow - and there is an ultrasound technique but that may be more industry specific. There are kits available to spray a dye on the item and use black light, but I don't have any hands-on experience with them.
We had a friendly doctor who was a NASCAR fan that helped us out by passing some engine parts through his x-ray rig for us. That was...a long time ago.

[mechanic]

I have been searching for a fuel pump regulator (that does work) for the B6304f white block.
Apparently the OEM regulator is unavailable now. I'm skeptical of buying one from eBay, as I haven't had good results with some parts I have bought from there.
Photo of regulator:

fuel_regulator.JPEG (180.56 KiB) Viewed 425 times

this is the original- it has 274K miles of usage. about time to be replaced, I think.??

[BlackBart]

Crazy that isn’t more of a generic universal part.

[volvolugnut]

I suspect, but do not know for sure, that the failure of the fuel pressure regulator happens when the rubber diaphragm leaks. You could test with hand vacuum pump. If it leaks down after pulling vacuum, it would be bad.
With this test, you could easily test one before you buy at salvage yard.
volvolugnut

[bmdubya1198]

Replaced the rack on my cousin's '98 V70 GLT today... it's nice to finally have that car not leaving a massive trail of ATF everywhere it goes! The old rack was leaking worse than I've ever seen... it was horrible. He was running almost 100% Lucas power steering stop leak, and it still poured right out... and that's thick stuff.
Now all we need to do on that car is a PCV refresh and it's pretty much 100% mechanically. Going to replace the rear shocks and some vacuum hoses tomorrow and take it on a trip to some junkyards to test drive it. He's planning on taking it to Colorado next month, so he wanted to thoroughly shake it down first.

[Goupil]

Got my cam cover tool yesterday, swapped another set of cams in it and it finally spins freely.

Moved to the oil pan, as I'm tightening the second to last bolt I head the worst sound I've ever heard working on a car Sounded like the pan cracking. I cant find any crack so I tighten the last bolt and go to bed.

As I was putting the oil thermostat this morning I saw what I thought was a crack. Took the oil pan back out, to find absolutely no cracks

Slightly starting to hate working on this car I'm getting used to the 940 with everything being easy to reach

Some cracks in big alloy cast pieces only show up under stress. If you're near a (reasonable) machine shop, ask them to do a dye test for you. Fluorescent penetrant inspection is one method - a trade name is Zyglow - and there is an ultrasound technique but that may be more industry specific. There are kits available to spray a dye on the item and use black light, but I don't have any hands-on experience with them.
We had a friendly doctor who was a NASCAR fan that helped us out by passing some engine parts through his x-ray rig for us. That was...a long time ago.

I will get it checked, but i'm spoiled so I grabbed my other pan for now

Finally did the radiators bushings yesterday, after learning about them here a few months ago. Did a bit of bolting back things on, engine starting to look like an engine again.

[xanthefin]

Not on my to be exact but hit wierd situation where on IMMO3 blue box from V70 has 5Ohm antenna and i using one knock of antenna of 5Ohm and its so wierd i need add old Ford antenna with led (specifically) between there (as inductive load? or cut the power level?..) to make it read key. With this i can push key very far away from antenna and still read it. Maybe my knock antenna just way too "weak" for it..(?)

On these cars of age i spotted three different antennas, 8Ohm on 850, 5Ohm on V70 or 3.3 Ohm on S40 (5Ohm works on this too). Resistance measurement is not correct way measure coil but just rough. Not many has LC meter.


They have been tuned inside differently all for LC circuits as far i know how explain as resistors and capacitors changed on antenna circuit.


And don't mix communication line and ground.. you fry something inside box as after so one doesn't speak to me anymore. ECM survived though.

[yanga001]

Not on my to be exact but hit wierd situation where on IMMO3 blue box from V70 has 5Ohm antenna and i using one knock of antenna of 5Ohm and its so wierd i need add old Ford antenna with led (specifically) between there (as inductive load? or cut the power level?..) to make it read key. With this i can push key very far away from antenna and still read it. Maybe my knock antenna just way too "weak" for it..(?)

On these cars of age i spotted three different antennas, 8Ohm on 850, 5Ohm on V70 or 3.3 Ohm on S40 (5Ohm works on this too). Resistance measurement is not correct way measure coil but just rough. Not many has LC meter.


They have been tuned inside differently all for LC circuits as far i know how explain as resistors and capacitors changed on antenna circuit.


And don't mix communication line and ground.. you fry something inside box as after so one doesn't speak to me anymore. ECM survived though.

Did you replace the original antenna with the ford antenna to get it to link?

I have done a bit of antenna and communication theory in my undergrad so usually how these systems work is there is an emitter in the car which will energize an antenna within the immobilizer chip to either issue back a signal similar to how your credit cards work. I am sure you are aware of this based on the discussion thus far.

In the name of manufacturing efficiencies i would imagine the exact communication/handshake is programmed into the immobilizer and not the antenna. Likewise i am unsure how the transponder chip works but if it were fancy enough to have a chip then it would likely have an antenna inside. Our work sometimes xrays equipment so i will make a note to one day sneak a 99 key and my 98 key in and see what the circuitry looks like.

Based on what you said above it sounds like the volvo system is internally tuned to a specific key hence your ability to use a ford antenna.

These systems usually run at very low voltages as high frequency and high voltage means a lot more power. If you grounded out your communication line it could have popped a line driver or popped a fuse.

The antenna resistances are a product of changes in technology. Lower line matched impedances resulted in lower power draw. 8 ohm represents older tech, 5 ohm more modern, and 3.3 even more modern tech. If i get my hands on one of these antennas i would try and do a frequency response graph off one of my oscilloscopes to see what frequency they operate at.

Interesting discussion i do say.

[xanthefin]

Not on my to be exact but hit wierd situation where on IMMO3 blue box from V70 has 5Ohm antenna and i using one knock of antenna of 5Ohm and its so wierd i need add old Ford antenna with led (specifically) between there (as inductive load? or cut the power level?..) to make it read key. With this i can push key very far away from antenna and still read it. Maybe my knock antenna just way too "weak" for it..(?)

On these cars of age i spotted three different antennas, 8Ohm on 850, 5Ohm on V70 or 3.3 Ohm on S40 (5Ohm works on this too). Resistance measurement is not correct way measure coil but just rough. Not many has LC meter.


They have been tuned inside differently all for LC circuits as far i know how explain as resistors and capacitors changed on antenna circuit.


And don't mix communication line and ground.. you fry something inside box as after so one doesn't speak to me anymore. ECM survived though.

Did you replace the original antenna with the ford antenna to get it to link?

I have done a bit of antenna and communication theory in my undergrad so usually how these systems work is there is an emitter in the car which will energize an antenna within the immobilizer chip to either issue back a signal similar to how your credit cards work. I am sure you are aware of this based on the discussion thus far.

In the name of manufacturing efficiencies i would imagine the exact communication/handshake is programmed into the immobilizer and not the antenna. Likewise i am unsure how the transponder chip works but if it were fancy enough to have a chip then it would likely have an antenna inside. Our work sometimes xrays equipment so i will make a note to one day sneak a 99 key and my 98 key in and see what the circuitry looks like.

Based on what you said above it sounds like the volvo system is internally tuned to a specific key hence your ability to use a ford antenna.

These systems usually run at very low voltages as high frequency and high voltage means a lot more power. If you grounded out your communication line it could have popped a line driver or popped a fuse.

The antenna resistances are a product of changes in technology. Lower line matched impedances resulted in lower power draw. 8 ohm represents older tech, 5 ohm more modern, and 3.3 even more modern tech. If i get my hands on one of these antennas i would try and do a frequency response graph off one of my oscilloscopes to see what frequency they operate at.

Interesting discussion i do say.

I did not, on my bench its non Volvo or any car manufacturer's antenna i just added Ford antenna between there which coil ends are attached to LED light which lights up when there is reading happening between antenna and chip so its acts just as load there so i suspect my 5 Ohm antenna is too "weak" maybe overshooting so it doesn't read without it being there toning it down as i lose connection when i remove it.


Antenna is just a coil, there is no brains not even antenna driver in Volvos there. Its all in IMMO box. Pin 9 & 10 are directly to antenna coil both ends. Some of the V70's has extra as far i know light to light up they key area which got extra pins there for that.


Yeah i think the driver burned but i don't have replacement there.


As far i can say its 125KHz typically but can varie per how they tune it. I previously have in other system when i learned key things i burned my oscilloscope small thin jumper wire at antenna circuit as i somehow grounded it by accident so they got a kick there at least some.


Chip is super small usually in glass or ceramic block.


If want pain try to learn key chips from VW's they used many features of them and encrypted different places security bits of the key.


As side note IMMO3 like from V70, SV40 does report and show Key chip ID each time you turn Ignition on but i have problem do i include it in app or not as i fear someone just screenshots it and shares over internet without understanding it.

And lastly some public warning. IMMO3 blue box from V70 1997 model CAN with low battery situation (left and forgot) corrupt own memory. It has happened. At least with SW 9432601 is one guilty here.

[mechanic]

Would anyone know just where the ac relay is located.
I'm not sure the nomenclature of the relay- just know there has to be a relay somewhere in relation to the ac system.