2001 V70 2.4T Blower fan stopped working Topic is solved

[abscate]

Red pos and brown neg on the p2 fan. Use some pins on clips to attach to the connector, tape the positive side to avoid shorts

Just touch wires to the battery posts and look for the motor kick

Would a small 12v lantern battery be sufficient for this type of test?

https://www.acehardware.com/departments ... lsrc=aw.ds

I don’t think so. Blower fuse rating s probably 2x the amperage, so you need a battery capable of 10 amps or so

[prwood]

Red pos and brown neg on the p2 fan. Use some pins on clips to attach to the connector, tape the positive side to avoid shorts

Just touch wires to the battery posts and look for the motor kick

Would a small 12v lantern battery be sufficient for this type of test?

https://www.acehardware.com/departments ... lsrc=aw.ds

I don’t think so. Blower fuse rating s probably 2x the amperage, so you need a battery capable of 10 amps or so

I got one of these batteries from Harbor Freight, 12v 160 CCA AGM battery:

https://www.harborfreight.com/12v-160-c ... TMQAvD_BwE

I connected to the terminals on the blower fan with clips (they are male blade-type terminals, the connector itself has female terminals). I connected to the terminals that the thicker black and red wires from the connector would have connected to. I then connected the red to positive and black to negative on the battery, and there was no response from the fan.

I'm wondering if the battery isn't powerful enough in terms of amps, if I need to charge it first, or if the fan truly is dead? I read the voltage coming from the clips and it did measure about 12.6 volts.

[abscate]

Your fan is dead, I’m sorry to report. When you test the good one, insulate those clips so the torque of the motor doesn’t yank them off and short the battery

I’ve got a p2 fan that is good but I’m in the 1 zip codes and I think you are in the 9s…

Wait , confusing you with CA guy, you are in the 0s!

[prwood]

Your fan is dead, I’m sorry to report. When you test the good one, insulate those clips so the torque of the motor doesn’t yank them off and short the battery

I’ve got a p2 fan that is good but I’m in the 1 zip codes and I think you are in the 9s…

Wait , confusing you with CA guy, you are in the 0s!

My next question is: is the fan motor dead or is it the resistor assembly? Is it possible to test them separately? Because it would certainly save money if it was only one or the other.

[abscate]

Fan 4 and resistor 5 are separate

If the fan won’t turn with 12 volts,replace it

[prwood]

Fan 4 and resistor 5 are separate

If the fan won’t turn with 12 volts,replace it

Just to clarify, I’ve been testing the unit in situ, by exposing the connector behind the glovebox. Therefore what I have been testing is the connector on the resistor, which is connected to the fan. I can’t access the fan’s connector directly without removing the unit from the car, and I was trying to avoid doing that unless I had to. But I’m guessing I’d need to remove it, and test the fan on its own outside the car, before I could tell which one had the problem.

[abscate]

It’s not a bad drop. I think I documented it here….

viewtopic.php?t=21343&hilit=31320393

[prwood]

Ok, I dropped the fan assembly today. That back right screw is a hassle to get out, but eventually I did it.

I pulled everything apart, and tested the fan by itself attached to the 12v battery I got: https://www.harborfreight.com/12v-160-c ... TMQAvD_BwE

I hooked the wires up, and got an initial kick from the fan, and then it spun relatively slowly for about 10 seconds. I left the wires connected. After it stopped, I gave the fan a tap, and it started spinning again for another 10 seconds, then stopped. I was able to repeat this 3 times, and each time it ran for about 10 seconds, then stopped. Finally, it wouldn't start up at all, even with a tap.

At this point the results seem inconclusive to me. It seems like the fan works to some degree, but I don't know if its eventual stopping is due to a fault in the motor itself, or if the battery I'm using for testing isn't powerful enough to provide the force for it to start on its own, or to sustain it for longer than a few seconds. Looking on the web page above, it says the battery is a 10 Ah, which as I understand it means it can provide 10 amps for 1 hour, which I think means it could provide 30 amps for 20 minutes... which should be enough? Maybe? Electrical knowledge is not one of my strong points...

The other thing I'm wondering is if I should have run the positive line through a 30 amp fuse, and if I've actually blown the motor due to over-current.

I was able to spin the fan freely pretty easily when disconnected from power. I have the battery on a charger now and might give it another try later just. The battery was showing a charge of 12.4 volts after my last tests

I'm also not sure if there's a way to test the resistor/controller module. I used a multi meter to probe the terminals, and found continuity between the two marked terminals, with a resistance of 0 ohms.

IMG_7193.jpg (271.2 KiB) Viewed 429 times

Here are the labels from the fan and the resistor module respectively, if that's of any use:

IMG_7195.jpg (220.47 KiB) Viewed 429 times

IMG_7194.jpg (214.73 KiB) Viewed 429 times

Any additional suggestions would be appreciated!

[abscate]

That battery would run it full speed for an hour or more. Your testing is a 99 44/100% diagnosis of dead fan. The scream pretty fast at full speed

[vtl]

That sounds like a typical electric motor with fully worn brushes.