Unfortunately I do not have VIDA or DICE (or whatever its called). It has made troubleshooting this car for certain problems difficult to say the least. But I have been getting through it.
That is the meaning for this post as well. I have the All Wheel Drive system working now. I had a thought that the new parts in the motor might need to be run in before the DEM unit would drive it. As is evident when VIDA says a motor is bad, but yet it tests fine on the bench.
With this in mind, I decided to run 12 volt source directly to the motor for several minutes and seat the brushes on the new armature, break in the new seals and components. Hooked everything back up and the AWD is now working. I am now trying to do a write up on rebuilding the motor and posting it on here for all to read.
At one point the AWD did fail again, and the dash lit up like a xmas tree with faults. Red triangle warning light with statement saying brake failure, ABS failure light, Traction control and Anti-skid fail, and another I can't remember. This happened on a very steep incline I was running up and down testing the AWD system. I parked it and tried pulling codes with my code reader. Nothing came up. Disconnected battery for several minutes then tried it again. The ABS light and traction light were still on. Went for a regular drive and all failure lights went out. Everything working perfectly fine now, including AWD.
I think what happened was the brake fluid float activated when I was on the steep incline. The vehicle thought there was a leak and the brake fluid was gone. This activated all the warning lights and system failures when there is an issue with the braking system. At least this is what I think happened.
Haldex 3 AOC Pump Motor Rebuild
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Metallo
- Posts: 258
- Joined: 18 January 2004
- Year and Model: XC 70 AWD 2.5 - 2006
- Location: Canada - NB
- Has thanked: 7 times
- Been thanked: 6 times
Dezz,
How much did you heat the black plastic cover of the motor? I do not want to ruin the cover, I already tried using 360 °F but I cannot get it off.
Could you also send me a picture of the plastic rivet puller you have used? Just to have an idea as mine is so tight that around the edge, I can hardly get a blade.
Thank you,
Alex
How much did you heat the black plastic cover of the motor? I do not want to ruin the cover, I already tried using 360 °F but I cannot get it off.
Could you also send me a picture of the plastic rivet puller you have used? Just to have an idea as mine is so tight that around the edge, I can hardly get a blade.
Thank you,
Alex
Polar 940 Turbo SW - 1997
XC 70 AWD 2.5 - 2006
XC 70 AWD 2.5 - 2006
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DanT
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 18 September 2022
- Year and Model: 2008 XC90 4.4L
- Location: BC
- Been thanked: 1 time
Hello,
Just dumping some pictures here to give everyone a better idea on the inside of the pump.
For all or those considering this rebuild, removing the plastic housing is not easy.
Smacking a knife into the seem is a good way to start. After an hr of prying with various tools, heat guns, and silicone lube, a plastic pop rivet tool levered against the aluminum for the bolt holes with steady pressure is what finally released it.
The rubber O-ring is about a 1/4" up so its not a huge issue to shred the very edge of the plastic, I'm guessing mine would need RTV to seal properly again though.
The bearing are fairly lightly press fit to the shaft so for the disassembly I was able to tap the shaft through however for a full rebuild you'd want something to press them and the commutator off properly.
I opted to buy a new dorman pump as i didn't want to chance not being able to rebuild the pump after getting the car apart, I'm glad i did.
This is the third pump on my car, given its a cheap brand the plan is to rebuild the OEM ready for the next pump replacement.
Below are the internal pictures of the motor.
Just dumping some pictures here to give everyone a better idea on the inside of the pump.
For all or those considering this rebuild, removing the plastic housing is not easy.
Smacking a knife into the seem is a good way to start. After an hr of prying with various tools, heat guns, and silicone lube, a plastic pop rivet tool levered against the aluminum for the bolt holes with steady pressure is what finally released it.
The rubber O-ring is about a 1/4" up so its not a huge issue to shred the very edge of the plastic, I'm guessing mine would need RTV to seal properly again though.
The bearing are fairly lightly press fit to the shaft so for the disassembly I was able to tap the shaft through however for a full rebuild you'd want something to press them and the commutator off properly.
I opted to buy a new dorman pump as i didn't want to chance not being able to rebuild the pump after getting the car apart, I'm glad i did.
This is the third pump on my car, given its a cheap brand the plan is to rebuild the OEM ready for the next pump replacement.
Below are the internal pictures of the motor.
- Attachments
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- 310032164_473759341465552_3916531666337473606_n.jpg (355.89 KiB) Viewed 732 times
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- 309952893_624946152435940_9029749999947043867_n.jpg (267.47 KiB) Viewed 732 times
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- 309703520_653682849658346_6272631045243644643_n.jpg (220.32 KiB) Viewed 732 times
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- Dead Pump
- Haldex.PNG (125.33 KiB) Viewed 732 times
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- New Dorman Pump
- Haldex Fixed.PNG (150.3 KiB) Viewed 732 times
- Blacklab467
- Posts: 1107
- Joined: 9 August 2016
- Year and Model: 2007 xc 70
- Location: Calgary, AB
- Has thanked: 113 times
- Been thanked: 262 times
I hope you can get the Volvo pump rebuilt before winter, my Dorman pump lasted only 3 months. Had to buy a new Volvo pump for $500!
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
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