Looking 2007 XC70 steel front brake lines replacement advice Topic is solved

[AylmerQc]

I started out needing to replace the brake flex hoses on the front and although I've managed to remove them at both the caliper and rigid brake hose ends, the couplings on both rigid steel lines are seized completely onto the metal lines.
On the driver's side, I had to cut the coupling off due to a small plastic dowel I inserted to stop brake fluid loss breaking inside the end of the coupling and I couldn't get it out.
From the videos I've seen online, it's obvious that to redo the bubble flare I need a quality tool otherwise it can be hit-and-miss which isn't an option when there's only a small amount of spare brake line to work with.

My questions are: are brake lines available already pre-shaped? (It's a holiday today so dealers and parts stores are closed otherwise I'd give them a call).
Otherwise, does anyone have a diagram or idea of how long pre-flared lines I need for each side?
Also, how big of a job would it be to replace the passenger-side rigid brake line?
How much success have you had doing your own bubble flares on brake lines and which brand or model tool did you use?
I've seen a video of someone in the UK using a very good compact flaring tool which he claims can do the double flares with the lines still on the car. Similar tools on Amazon also say made for double flares but both in the video and Amazon's product information photos show that the tool makes bubble flares. Seems all very confusing.

[abscate]

Look into CuNiform lines which don’t rust and are much easier to work and flare than steel lines

Thank bdub and dirk for teaching me about them, now we both know how to fish

[jonesg]

Nicop line is very easy to work.
Bend it with your hands.
Don't use a beam style flare tool.

This one worked for me.

[AylmerQc]

Nicop line is very easy to work.
Bend it with your hands.
Don't use a beam-style flare tool.

This one worked for me.

Thanks.
Looks like this is from NAPA,
I always forget about NAPA parts stores. I should go there instead of the local "everything under one roof" retailer.
What did you use to ream out the line before (or is it after?) doing the flare?
I'm asking as this seems a fairly important step from the couple of videos I've seen, They used some special reaming tools as far as I can recollect...

[AylmerQc]

Look into CuNiform lines which don’t rust and are much easier to work and flare than steel lines

Thank bdub and dirk for teaching me about them, now we both know how to fish

Thanks.
I had to look up CuNifform.
I get it now, as I did see a couple of videos where it was used but was referenced as Copper-Nickel if I recall correctly...

[jonesg]

no special reaming tool needed , don't cut the line with a saw obviously.
FCP has the proper cutter.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mini-t ... vAEALw_wcB

[abscate]

My bad. CuNi form and Nicopp are the same product, I think one is a name brand, badly misspelled

[AylmerQc]

I'm back with another query, as this seems to be quite a bit more work than I thought.
I bought a tool online that would allow me t do the bubble flare with the brake line still on the car.
It's a small very simple handheld tool but only available for SAE flares. I'm guessing Volvos have DIN flares.
From the research I've done, there's very little difference between the two except DIN has a flat bottom whereas the SAE has more of a rounded bottom.
Do you think, or I should say, have experience and actually know if the SAE flare will work with an original DIN brake line connector? From some Q and A I've seen elsewhere, the answer was that the rounded SAE bottom will flatten out in a DIN connector but that could be just anyone saying will...

[jonesg]

Try it and find out.