1994 Volvo 850 Estate, THE ANVIL....

[Qick-Brik]

Hello to all who read this and I look forward to your replies.

I own a '94 Volvo (obviously) 850 Estate, I call The Anvil, with just over 315,000km on the clock and due to a seized water pump bearing it now has a second heart.

I have recently painted the trim and bumpers and the look great "Back in Black" and once I become more familar with posting here I'll add pic's of the things that I'm doing or have done to The Anvil.

I am currently having an issue with my cooling fan, in that it doesn't come on at all. Not with the A/C on, not when the temp guage rises into the red, just no cooling love for the hot engine .

I have found the 850 repair manual for download and I found a Haynes manual, finally, a couple of months back and found that the relay's center plug is a pair of ground lines that the signal is to come from to run the fan in either low or high speed.

When connecting a probe to the negative battery post and removing the center plug and connecting the probe to the relay tabs the fan will run low and high.

Long way to get to the question but I wanted to make sure you know exactly what I'm talking about.

The center plug lines trace back to the ECU and I'm wondering if anyone has an idea as to which pins these lines connect to? What would the pin number be on the ECU?

I ask because if I can find the the pins associated with these two lines(yellow=low, yellow/white=high) I can figure out if it is a faulty ECU or if it's these lines.

The lines look as if they've been poked for probing before and I'm thinking that the lines may have corroded, or something to that effect, and now have opens in them and this is why the fan isn't working.

And before anyone asks, Yep, I've changed the coolent temp sensor.

If I can't find a pin location to check I'll just splice in to the yellow/white and hook a switch up to a blank in the dash and run the switch to ground.

I'm not going to lose another engine. And I want to run the A/C

B.T.W.

I found the "Reset Your Check Engine Light" and am now Lambda free. The only lights on the dash that are lit now are the ABS and TRACS and I'm thinking its a sensor in the front left. I've cleared the codes today and I'll check in the morning to see whats come back and I'll post them for all to see and critique.

[MadeInJapan]

You should never go into the red on the temp...it should set at 3:00 with no deviation. I know you changed the temp. sensor but did you do the thermostat at the same time? When the thermostat goes strange things happen with these cars. May not be related but you really ought to change it out...it's not expensive at all. If the wheel senor doesn't take care of your ABS/TRAC light then I suspect you're in for an ABS control module rebuild. Instructions (if you're soldering iron savy) to do this yourself are in the repair database. There are several you could send it off to for the rebuild if yours was a later model. In the states, it's less than $150 for this service including shipping, however, for your model year, no one apparently offers this service, so let's hope it is a wheel sensor. I'll let others chime in for your fan issue.

[Ozark Lee]

I show the yellow wire going to pin A-26 and the yellow and white wire going to pin A-17 on the ECU module.

None of my diagrams show a layout on the connectors however and I'm not sure if they are numbered or not.

...Lee