Gloves Topic is solved
- manovlov
- Posts: 1180
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- Year and Model: 1995 850 GLT 2.5 170
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Gloves
Everything is in the title. Does someone recommend a very strong and good brand , or as me you use Chinese ones ?
1995/02 850 GLT 2.5 170 Petrol M56
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454cid
- Posts: 1248
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I don't use gloves very often. What is your usage? Typically, I'll only use gloves when using strong chemicals. I've seen guys wear gloves while working on cars, but I've never done so. I just wash my hands periodically.
In the case of chemicals, I use something that will survive chemical exposure.
In the case of chemicals, I use something that will survive chemical exposure.
1996 850
1999 S70 GLT (sold after deer hit)
2010 Ford Focus SE
2006 Cadillac CTS
1996 Mercedes C220
1999 Chevrolet K3500
1969 Buick LeSabre Custom 400
1999 S70 GLT (sold after deer hit)
2010 Ford Focus SE
2006 Cadillac CTS
1996 Mercedes C220
1999 Chevrolet K3500
1969 Buick LeSabre Custom 400
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yanga001
- Posts: 787
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I usually use nitrile gloves (cannot confirm nor deny they were company supplied) and change them to minimize cross contamination of my tools and other areas of the engine. I would say its better not to let the stuff sit on your hands but periodic exposure will not do noticeable damage. My mechanic utilize the white gloves which tear through.
If you want the strongest of the strong then i have used KeepKleen gloves once before and they were stupid strong.
I would say it depends on your use case though. Do you want to limit getting oily, limit the embedding of metal shavings on your hands, reduce burns, etc. All of these have their own PPE case.
I dont know about France, but in Canada you normally cannot go wrong with what you get from larger industrial suppliers like auckland grainger or the likes. Price will be a factor.
DO WEAR GLOVES WHEN DEALING WITH ANTISEIZE, lest you want to look like the tinman.
Size your gloves appropriately, undersized gloves (ie you wore a small when your a medium to large) will snap/break more often. When your hands are sweaty your perfectly fitting medium glove is now near impossible to fit a new set on. I personally fit snug on a medium, and usually wear a large when working on cars.
The best answer i could give is identify what situations you want/need to wear gloves for. Why are you wearing gloves, and what hazards are there.
Changing tires can be done with gardners gloves if you are worried about getting dirty. Changing oil/transmission/power steering pumps and the like should be done with nitrile in my opinion. Thin gloves do not stop burning, stick a large fan over the engine and let it cool for a bit.
Still wash your hands after wearing the gloves incase any contamination gets through.
If you want the strongest of the strong then i have used KeepKleen gloves once before and they were stupid strong.
I would say it depends on your use case though. Do you want to limit getting oily, limit the embedding of metal shavings on your hands, reduce burns, etc. All of these have their own PPE case.
I dont know about France, but in Canada you normally cannot go wrong with what you get from larger industrial suppliers like auckland grainger or the likes. Price will be a factor.
DO WEAR GLOVES WHEN DEALING WITH ANTISEIZE, lest you want to look like the tinman.
Size your gloves appropriately, undersized gloves (ie you wore a small when your a medium to large) will snap/break more often. When your hands are sweaty your perfectly fitting medium glove is now near impossible to fit a new set on. I personally fit snug on a medium, and usually wear a large when working on cars.
The best answer i could give is identify what situations you want/need to wear gloves for. Why are you wearing gloves, and what hazards are there.
Changing tires can be done with gardners gloves if you are worried about getting dirty. Changing oil/transmission/power steering pumps and the like should be done with nitrile in my opinion. Thin gloves do not stop burning, stick a large fan over the engine and let it cool for a bit.
Still wash your hands after wearing the gloves incase any contamination gets through.
1998 S70 N/A Auto (Parts car)(planned to be harvested)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar
)
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)
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scot850
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In the dark ages (maybe 25+ years ago) in the UK we used to get 'barrier cream' products to protect your hands when working on dirty jobs. Worked really well. Like hand sanitizer you dispensed this hand cream and then rubbed it into your hands and under your nails. Worked really well. I have not seen anything like that over here in Canada. I do use gloves probably 50% of the time and depends on what I am working on. Nitrile/disposable gloves for dirty jobs and thicker mechanic gloves for work where I am liable to lose some skin!!
Biggest problem is that with big hands comes a huge shortage of gloves available that fit. Most of the disposable ones are too small and rip on trying to fit or are too tight to work with for anytime as they make my hands ache.
Brake work and wheel cleaning are 2 jobs where I always wear gloves and also oil changes. On the last one I have recently bought a fluid extractor that works on air pressure which hopefully means only swapping the filter will need gloves!
As for mechanic gloves it is whatever fits and are comfortable to wear, has reasonable fluid protection but enough to grip nuts and bolts. Mostly though it is what is cheap and fits!!
Neil.
Biggest problem is that with big hands comes a huge shortage of gloves available that fit. Most of the disposable ones are too small and rip on trying to fit or are too tight to work with for anytime as they make my hands ache.
Brake work and wheel cleaning are 2 jobs where I always wear gloves and also oil changes. On the last one I have recently bought a fluid extractor that works on air pressure which hopefully means only swapping the filter will need gloves!
As for mechanic gloves it is whatever fits and are comfortable to wear, has reasonable fluid protection but enough to grip nuts and bolts. Mostly though it is what is cheap and fits!!
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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Gearworks black vinyl 5 mil at all times. Keep blaccrap off your hands and stops a lot of scrapes
You can buy them FCP and put the broken ones in a box and……
You can buy them FCP and put the broken ones in a box and……
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- volvolugnut
- Posts: 6228
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I buy the nitrile gloves from wherever available. I do not see much difference in quality. Since they are not left/right handed, I swap them to get a cleaner palm until they get a tear and then get a single replacement glove. Sometimes I keep those with a small hole for jobs like painting where full coverage is not needed. I keep some in my shop and my garage for easy access.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- kallekula
- Posts: 1074
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I’ve been using these for a while now. Quality gloves that don’t rip easy.
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BMW 540i 2002
S70 Base 2000
- BlackBart
- Posts: 6492
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Nitrile is good, I agree. The heavier duty the better - less tearing. I get orange ones from the local NAPA.
I can't stand thick "mechanics gloves" for doing any kind of work that needs dexterity - too thick and clumsy, no feel.
Keep in mind brake cleaner and those kinds of strong chemicals go right through a nitrile glove.
I can't stand thick "mechanics gloves" for doing any kind of work that needs dexterity - too thick and clumsy, no feel.
Keep in mind brake cleaner and those kinds of strong chemicals go right through a nitrile glove.
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
- BlackBart
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Haha...so you’ve spent the money and still have to scrub with a stiff brush! I’ve done that too. I like the pumice-fortified “Goop” brand to eat grease.
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty






