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2007 XC70 timing belt change. Do-able at home?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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AylmerQc
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2007 XC70 timing belt change. Do-able at home?

Post by AylmerQc »

I just found out from the previous owner that the timing belt was last changed in 2013 at 110,000.
It now has 200,000 miles.
Is this a job I could do at home on a weekend, or a week, taking my time?
I've done lots of mechanical work on my own cars over the years but no timing belts.
I have a pretty good idea of what's involved generally but wondering how complex it is on this particular car...

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Post by abscate »

It would be due up at 215,000 miles, so another year of driving is ok. There is a lot of safety margin on these belts. The US version that is warranty for 150,000 miles uses exactly the same parts.
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AylmerQc
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Post by AylmerQc »

Actually, the car is originally from the US so it might have had a 150,000-mile belt installed then.
There may be the number of years to consider though. we're getting close to 10 years on the same belt but I won't have time to do it (in the driveway) before winter comes so it's a next-year job in any case...

jaywats
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Post by jaywats »

Job is do-able, make sure you change all components as needed. Water pump, tensioner, idler, belt. You'll need the cam holder tool.

I wouldn't go past 75k/ 10yrs on a belt. Already replaced a block
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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

jaywats wrote: 03 Nov 2022, 13:34 Job is do-able, make sure you change all components as needed. Water pump, tensioner, idler, belt. You'll need the cam holder tool.

I wouldn't go past 75k/ 10yrs on a belt. Already replaced a block
cam holder ?
why.

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Post by chrism »

If you don’t loosen or separate the sprockets from the cams then there is no need to employ a any cam locking tools.

Here is a good video on the procedure. One thing I like to do differently is to remove the plastic shield from under the crank sprocket rather than removing the damper pulley.


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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

It’s easy and doable, you don’t need a cam tensioner nor do you need to remove the crank pulley. Just mark the old belt with a white marker and mark the index marks with white and transfer the marks to the new belt and away you go. Use only Volvo parts and replace the water pump and pulleys and tensioner, FCP sells a real good kit with a new serpentine belt also. Plenty of videos on how to set the tensioner. I did a post last year on how to do it with pictures, you could look at that too. It’s about a 2 1/2 hour job working slowly and methodically with hand tools.
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IlikemyXC70
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Post by IlikemyXC70 »

If it is the same as the 2004, yes. I used the video posted in this thread as a guide. I did remove the crank pulley, and I sprayed penetrating oil on the bolts about three weeks in advance. I used an electric impact tool, but there are also leverage "tricks" to loosen the bolts without the pulley spinning. I removed the ECM/ECU/computer housing too. I also replaced the drive/serpentine belt and tensioner.

The job took me about four hours working slowly and taking many breaks. A cam locking tool is not necessary. It takes a lot of force to move them. The trickiest part for me was the tensioner and its adjustment.

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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

I've never done a Tbelt myself ... but why would anyone ever remove the crank pulley? Isn't that an equally painstaking, and unnecessary step?
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prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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Post by vtl »

br0dy519 wrote: 03 Nov 2022, 21:59 I've never done a Tbelt myself ... but why would anyone ever remove the crank pulley? Isn't that an equally painstaking, and unnecessary step?
You need to remove plastic guard otherwise, and you will miss the ability to mark your old belt/sprocket, which can easily result in a skipped tooth or two. If you own an impact wrench it's a minute job anyways, why bother with dancing around the pulley?..

The best ambient temp to set the belt tensioner is 68F/20C btw, the needle would go right in the middle setting.

Agree with everyone else, it is an easy DIY job. One of the easiest engines in terms of t-belt replacement.

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