Capital Auto Auction buying advice DC NH PA MD ( How to buy a $2500 Volvo )

[FireFox31]

Hello. Please share advice for buying cars from dealer-type auctions such as Capitol Auto Auctions.. I'm planning to buy a donated P80 and could use all the help I can get.

Questions to start discussion:
1. How can we evaluate the car before buying?
2. Can we start or even drive these cars?
3. Would a CarFax help?
4. How can we determine a reasonable maximum bid?
5. Are there any tricks for bidding?
6. How can we plan to get the car home?
7. Are there ways to reduce the cost and risk of title and registration?

Thanks for input on these and other topics. I hope I can win this car at the most fair price.

[FireFox31]

Some initial ideas:

1. How can we evaluate the car before buying? I'd like to see the car in person to check for major problems hidden in the provided photos. I'd check for rust, fluid leaks, broken parts, mold/smell, etc. What things are best to check with limited access?

2. Can we start or even drive these cars? A Google review of Capitol mentioned that they allow cars to be started Friday between noon and 3 pm, but not driven. This could let me hear the engine, rev it, feel it idle, but not check it's drivability. Maybe I could do a compression test.

3. Would a CarFax help? Would you try calling a shop which serviced it for some history? Is it reasonable or even ethical to try and contact the previous owner to learn its problems?

4. How can we determine a reasonable maximum bid? Perhaps plan for the worst case that the car is no good. Consider scrap value plus the value of the used parts sold separately, minus fees, transportation costs, and time to part it out. Ask the auction house for their fee structure.

5. Are there any tricks for bidding? Bidding in small increments, I feel, encourages buyers to gradually exceed their planned maximum because the bid increments seem small. Maybe a better plan is to bid a little above your max as late as possible or if you see small bids driving the price too high. This big jump might scare off competition. But what are these scams about the owner bidding to drive up the price? Are there ways to beat this scam?

6. How can we plan to get the car home? Ideally it could be driven home, so estimate its ability to do so if you get to start it. Without driving it, you could push it in neutral to ensure the brakes aren't stuck so it could, worst case, be towed. A U-Haul trailer and, if necessary, a truck to tow it could be rented. What's a good way to winch a non-running car onto a rented trailer with no permanent winch? Could AAA tow it home if you proved ownership?

7. Titling could be a big expense for a car which might not work out. Consider using your state's method for getting temporary plates until you're sure the car is worth keeping.

Thanks for input on these and other topics. I hope I can win this car at the most fair price.

[volvolugnut]

Response to numbers:
6. Get a Come-A- Long type winch. They operate with ratchet handle. Some have a pulley in the cable to improve leverage. Attach the winch end to the front of trailer and the hook end to the front tow hook of the car. It is best to have a helper, but it can be done alone. I have hauled many cars by myself. The tow vehicle should be larger than the car you will haul. Securely fasten the car to the trailer at both ends. Be safe.

7. If you are hauling or towing the car you should not need a title in your name. I would not get title until I had some confidence it would be a driver.

volvolugnut

[foggydogg]

Capital Auto auctions no longer allow kicking the tires; they are online only, as you probably already know. Pre world-wide pandemic, they did have in-person bidding with inspection of the no-run cars before the auction started, but running cars were driven by staff across the block, much like livestock auctions. They will likely not ever return to that format. CoPart and the insurance industry captive auctions do allow in-person inspection in some locations.
When I spot a car at Capital that I actually have in interest in buying, I decide how much I'm willing to risk, place a proxy bid for that number ( figuring the fee structure in the calculation ), and then leave it alone. I never watch any car I'm actually interested in go across the block live.
I have watched a few of their auctions live if I'm someplace I can get a good wifi signal, and there is a special interest car involved - the Jensen they sold in NH a while back is an example. I think it hammered for over $12.5k.
The vast majority of the stuff Capital sells are charity donations or government fleet sales, with a few dealer consignments thrown in to keep people on their toes. Read the Auctioneers notes at the bottom of the listing; charity donated cars and trucks are always stated as such, and some fleet vehicles involve an additional fee, also noted there.
Paperwork from Capital gets FedEx next-day delivery, and they are licensed dealers, so the title is dealer re-assigned, and there is always a bill of sale. I've never had an issue. Your mileage may vary.
My long time business partner has been buying and selling cars for over 40 years, and has bought hundreds from Capital both in DC/Temple Hills, and a few from Philadelphia. Dealing with the Philly crowd he describes as being less than pleasant.
Each of the cars I won at their auction my old friend collects for me and delivers to my back yard. Again, your mileage may vary.
Buying any car at auction, no matter the format, is a roll of the dice. Same thing is true buying a horse, or a steer, or a gizmo on Ebay, &c.
I made a bookmark bid on the T5M, just to see where it ends up, because once the lot hammers sold the listing is removed from their website. There is no way to track earlier sales otherwise.

[foggydogg]

Most auction listings note if a car is driveable; at Capital, it says either that, or 'starts', which is in-house code for it runs but not a likely candidate for driving it off the lot, or non-running. Temp tags are obviously a state by state thing.
Tow dollies can be tricky for non-running cars. Trailers can sometimes be surprisingly affordable to rent; Dr. Abscate gt a pretty good deal on one when he rescued his prodigal VW from my place.
Some auction houses have arrangements with car haulers, fees can vary wildly. If there are tow companies with rollback service near where you live, call and ask if they would be interested. Most have a set fee per mile.

[FireFox31]

Thanks, these are great tips. Interesting that I might be able to not take title until evaluating the car. I wonder how long I could leave it in limbo.

Getting a quote from a local hauler seems easier than renting a trailer and tow vehicle, loading it myself, worrying about external brake lights, etc.

at Capital, it says either that, or 'starts', which is in-house code for it runs but not a likely candidate for driving it off the lot

Thanks, that helps. The garage where I work on cars is 30 mins from my home, so I need a car which drives that far. Purchasing from auction may be higher risk than I thought. I'll have to consider my options.

[volvolugnut]

Thanks, these are great tips. Interesting that I might be able to not take title until evaluating the car. I wonder how long I could leave it in limbo.

Getting a quote from a local hauler seems easier than renting a trailer and tow vehicle, loading it myself, worrying about external brake lights, etc.

at Capital, it says either that, or 'starts', which is in-house code for it runs but not a likely candidate for driving it off the lot

Thanks, that helps. The garage where I work on cars is 30 mins from my home, so I need a car which drives that far. Purchasing from auction may be higher risk than I thought. I'll have to consider my options.

Many states are different on title process. Ask your local registration authority for details.
volvolugnut

[foggydogg]

Thanks, these are great tips. Interesting that I might be able to not take title until evaluating the car. I wonder how long I could leave it in limbo.

Getting a quote from a local hauler seems easier than renting a trailer and tow vehicle, loading it myself, worrying about external brake lights, etc.

at Capital, it says either that, or 'starts', which is in-house code for it runs but not a likely candidate for driving it off the lot

Thanks, that helps. The garage where I work on cars is 30 mins from my home, so I need a car which drives that far. Purchasing from auction may be higher risk than I thought. I'll have to consider my options.

Talked with Dr. Abscate earlier today about this deal, check with him.
Capital could care less how long it takes to process the paperwork on your end; as noted above, they are licensed dealers, the original title is reassigned on the back and a bill of sale is in the packet.
If picking up the car in person in NH, they most likely hand you the envelope there; in other words, once you pay the bill, you get title as you take possession of the car. Since my cars have been delivered to my back yard by Buddy Express, the women at Capital in DC FedEx mine overnight.

[abscate]

Since you are local to the MAN auction definitely use a local tow , $ 150-200. You could also plate it, triple AAA , and then consume one of your annual rescue tows

I wish I could get over there with my tow dolly, but I don’t have a single car with an operational tow hook at the moment

That’s a nice specimen of T5M and I wouldn’t mind spending $3500-4000 to get that to Stage 0 all in. I think with $1500-2000 in the long term planning bank , you can easily score that one on that balance.

[foggydogg]

Thanks, these are great tips. Interesting that I might be able to not take title until evaluating the car. I wonder how long I could leave it in limbo.

Getting a quote from a local hauler seems easier than renting a trailer and tow vehicle, loading it myself, worrying about external brake lights, etc.

at Capital, it says either that, or 'starts', which is in-house code for it runs but not a likely candidate for driving it off the lot

Thanks, that helps. The garage where I work on cars is 30 mins from my home, so I need a car which drives that far. Purchasing from auction may be higher risk than I thought. I'll have to consider my options.

I just took a better look at the pics. Since the car obviously runs and the cluster isn't showing any lights except service, it is likely they don't call it a driver is because the battery is absent, and you can't take their jumpbox with you. The missing cat is still a mystery; it has been my experience that if you call them they may be able to tell you if it was eliminated by a tuner or if it is stolen, and there is an air gap in the exhaust.
I'm with the Doctor; this is a (mostly) intact car of rare numbers for the year - not just a T5 wagon, but a manual.
If it had been on one of their DC campuses, I wouldn't have posted it on MVS, I would have called the Credit Union about my loan limit.