Just a quick update. Now that we are in very cold weather that is always below freezing, the clunk is constant and I can rock the car by hand to get it to do it. I believe its the rear lower engine mount, which is still original. So is the front one. Don't have the second set of hands right now to help me pinpoint it, but will update with the actual fix once done and will replace both lower mounts if that's it.
I do use either OEM Volvo parts or whatever forum posts might suggest as a very close alternative. I very rarely use aftermarket, and if I do, it's because I have either no OEM option, or it's just unreasonable pricing.
07 S60 - Very low toned clunk - Not Struts
- soulvoid21
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dikidera
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I just want to mention that the word OEM is thrown around a lot but it doesn't always mean what you think it means. At least as it pertains Volvo.
While the official description of the term says non-aftermarket, this does not explicitly mean there have been no changes to the part so in our case OEM can still be considered aftermarket.
For instance a Volvo blue box GENUINE part will likely not be the same as say a Lemforder or Meyle or Corteco part but you can expect it to be as close as possible to when the car was first built in the Volvo factory.
From the information I've gathered, Volvo may contract these parts makers to build the part, but the quality will vary and it's up to Volvo to screen for quality parts and stamp them Volvo and put them in a blue box. But these parts makers don't screen them the same.
An engine mount from Corteco for instance may(and in my case is) use harder rubber and transfer more vibrations.
Other Corteco OEM mounts such as those you want to replace have been implicated in not holding vacuum, so if you do replace the front and rear subframe mounts(the fatty ones), be sure to either get Genuine volvo(and spend some serious cash) or test the OEM part if it holds vacuum OR if it has a higher durometer reading of the rubber vs original.
I've heard claims of OEM parts being better than Volvo blue box parts, but these claims are dubious at best. You should rely on user submitted reviews.
For me a quality part is a part which does not worsen the ride quality over the original. Just because the volvo genuine part may fail faster does not mean an OEM replacement part was necessarily better just because it didn't fail as fast, if it ended up worsening the driving experience by transferring more noise and/or vibrations in the cabin.
While the official description of the term says non-aftermarket, this does not explicitly mean there have been no changes to the part so in our case OEM can still be considered aftermarket.
For instance a Volvo blue box GENUINE part will likely not be the same as say a Lemforder or Meyle or Corteco part but you can expect it to be as close as possible to when the car was first built in the Volvo factory.
From the information I've gathered, Volvo may contract these parts makers to build the part, but the quality will vary and it's up to Volvo to screen for quality parts and stamp them Volvo and put them in a blue box. But these parts makers don't screen them the same.
An engine mount from Corteco for instance may(and in my case is) use harder rubber and transfer more vibrations.
Other Corteco OEM mounts such as those you want to replace have been implicated in not holding vacuum, so if you do replace the front and rear subframe mounts(the fatty ones), be sure to either get Genuine volvo(and spend some serious cash) or test the OEM part if it holds vacuum OR if it has a higher durometer reading of the rubber vs original.
I've heard claims of OEM parts being better than Volvo blue box parts, but these claims are dubious at best. You should rely on user submitted reviews.
For me a quality part is a part which does not worsen the ride quality over the original. Just because the volvo genuine part may fail faster does not mean an OEM replacement part was necessarily better just because it didn't fail as fast, if it ended up worsening the driving experience by transferring more noise and/or vibrations in the cabin.
- soulvoid21
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Well, just another update on this issue that I'm still facing.
Changed the subframe mounts, old ones weren't too bad, just a little dried. Also changed inner tie rods. They were worn and had some slop. Steering is much tighter now, but I'm still dealing with this clucking noise when reversing.
I'm thinking wheel bearing. Drivers side was replaced, but not the passengers side. Noise seems to be coming from that area too, but difficult to pinpoint as it only does it occasionally and while the wheels are on the ground. Doesn't do it on a lift. I'm sure at 180k miles that wheel bearing is tired anyway and could use replacing. If that's not it, I'm going to swap my struts around and see if the noise moves. Obviously if it does, cheap struts were the problem, even though ride quality is fine.
Changed the subframe mounts, old ones weren't too bad, just a little dried. Also changed inner tie rods. They were worn and had some slop. Steering is much tighter now, but I'm still dealing with this clucking noise when reversing.
I'm thinking wheel bearing. Drivers side was replaced, but not the passengers side. Noise seems to be coming from that area too, but difficult to pinpoint as it only does it occasionally and while the wheels are on the ground. Doesn't do it on a lift. I'm sure at 180k miles that wheel bearing is tired anyway and could use replacing. If that's not it, I'm going to swap my struts around and see if the noise moves. Obviously if it does, cheap struts were the problem, even though ride quality is fine.
- jonesg
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wheel bearings make a droning humming moan, goes up and down with wheel speed.
only in reverse.... I'd look at the prop shaft, it can rub on the alum heat shield and make noise.
only in reverse.... I'd look at the prop shaft, it can rub on the alum heat shield and make noise.
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