What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[br0dy519]

Successfully extracted the bolt! Drilled a 1/8 hole into it then used a t25 and hammer to tap and rotate to loosen simultaneously.

Original CV fixed vibration issue. Past return window for the cardone junk… lesson learned. Might get it replaced and just keep as a spare I suppose.

[vtl]

Two years on Mobil 1 0w40 European Car Formula (3 oil changes), after a full engine rebuild and hot tanking everything. Hmmm...



Didn't have anything like that with Amsoil Signature or Red Line.

[br0dy519]

Eek, I use 0w40 m1. Mechanic made me switch from Castrol. Not sure what other option I have. Pennzoil?

[vtl]

Eek, I use 0w40 m1. Mechanic made me switch from Castrol. Not sure what other option I have. Pennzoil?

The discoloration of metal is ok. That means, the base oil itself sticks to metal better than the cleaning additives it has. I'll have to watch it over time, if the oil starts to cause "castrolisation" of the engine (heavy sludge).

Red Line is super rich in calcium (cleaning agent). The engine was consuming oil via old/bad valve stem seals. Oil was burning out, calcium was forming a brittle cement-like deposits in the combustion chambers. Cement was flaking was and got caught between valve face and valve seat, jamming the valve and allowing flame bypassing it. Eventually one valve burnt off, the rest were heavily pitted.

I'm ok with less cleaning engine oil now

[Krons]

Eek, I use 0w40 m1. Mechanic made me switch from Castrol. Not sure what other option I have. Pennzoil?

The discoloration of metal is ok. That means, the base oil itself sticks to metal better than the cleaning additives it has. I'll have to watch it over time, if the oil starts to cause "castrolisation" of the engine (heavy sludge).

Red Line is super rich in calcium (cleaning agent). The engine was consuming oil via old/bad valve stem seals. Oil was burning out, calcium was forming a brittle cement-like deposits in the combustion chambers. Cement was flaking was and got caught between valve face and valve seat, jamming the valve and allowing flame bypassing it. Eventually one valve burnt off, the rest were heavily pitted.

I'm ok with less cleaning engine oil now

In your opinion better to stick with lower calcium oils in our higher mileage 5 cylinders?

[vtl]

In your opinion better to stick with lower calcium oils in our higher mileage 5 cylinders?

In my opinion I threw out hundreds of dollars on boutique oils I took apart another 2.5T engine, from a road worthy car with similar mileage, it had three times the wear compared to my engine, but it was still running, while mine was not.

Super fancy oil will make no miracle in a old, worn engine. That's for sure. Stick to a quality oil and keep changing it every 5k miles / 6 months, whatever comes first.

[Willber]

Had the MOT (UK yearly safety inspection) done on my V70 2.4t. It passed with only an advisory for the nearside balljoint. Annoyingly I changed these 15k miles ago for Meyle ones, but they haven't lasted. New Volvo ones acquired and will be going in.

On the topic of driveshafts, ive also been tracking down a vibration. I have acquired a used OEM driveshaft from a 2.4 non turbo to swap over from the budget replacement I bought approx 20k miles ago, assuming this will fit? It is just petrol / diesel and auto/manual in terms of interchangeability?

Also, Reading the topic about oil and cleaning / valve seals - mine burns a bit of oil after a long down hill with engine braking. Ive been running castrol ultraclean but think I will move back to a more traditional budget 10w 40 semi synthetic now!

[BlackBart]

Isn’t that frustrating, 15k on a new part?

Compression braking on a downhill is usually valve seals or valve guides.

[vtl]

Piston rings as well, it sucks oil mist from crankcase.

[Willber]

Thanks both. Yes, annoying on a new part, never had issues with Meyle before either.

Yes I had assumed valve guides/seals but also maybe piston rings because it doesn't smoke on start up or after idling, both common stem seal symptoms.

If it is the piston rings, is there any cure or something to 'bring them back around'? I know products in America such as Berryman B13 are popular, but unsure if they actually work?

Thanks