Parking brake issue - S70 T5M

[Timeo]

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1998-volvo-s70-2/

Bought this car off BAT, it will be my sons first car. I flew down to LA and drove it back to Seattle in two days. Car runs well and was as described in listing. I have replaced the ABS module and the last thing we need to fix is the emergency brake. The prior owner paid a shop to replace all the e-brake components including the cables but the e-brake still barely worked when I picked it up. Got home and took the wheels off (FYI, they were torqued over 150lbs!), literally had to jump on my 2' torque wrench to get them to turn. Discovered that the little clamps that hold the cable to the frame are not there and the cables are loose and rubbing against the tires. New cables are worn thru to metal sheathing now. I covered them in electrical tape and used stainless zip ties to hold them to the frame until I can get the clamps. Readjusted at rotor and handle and brakes worked well, thought the problem was resolved. Well fast forward a couple weeks and they have been inconsistent and now not working well again, the cables are still secured tightly w/ zip ties, so that isn't the issue.

The handle pulls correctly but I do remember hearing some clanking/thumping noise when pulling the handle a couple times, just once/twice. I am wondering if the connection at the handle is messed up somehow or the springs/shoes were installed incorrectly or do I need new cables even though the current ones are new but now damaged slightly. Any suggestions?

[abscate]

Its possible to put the e-brake expander in incorrectly if you arent familiar with it. Send some pics of the setup?

On a 1998, you adjust at the wheels first to lock, back off 2-3 clicks, then adjust the handle. The zip tie on the cable wont affect e-brake function

[Timeo]

On a 1998, you adjust at the wheels first to lock, back off 2-3 clicks, then adjust the handle. The zip tie on the cable wont affect e-brake function

This is what I did. Had to add the zip tie to keep from pulling cable towards the tires as I adjusted at the rotor.

Is the expander what you are calling the wheel you turn at the rotor? I believe these were put in backwards but didn't think that would cause issues, just made the direction you needed to turn it the opposite of what it should be. I haven't pulled the rotors yet to investigate further but will and grab some pics.

[scot850]

It amazes me how often this is an issue on a relatively simple system, that due to that it gets overlooked until it becomes an issue.

The cables can be an issue. I bought an aftermarket pair from FCP Euro and I could not even re-fit the wheels as the wheels would not go on due to the cables being way too close. I wrote a thread on this as part of my 2000 V70 rehab a few years ago.

As this work will only need done possibly once in the car's life, I would suggest fitting Volvo cables to start with.

Strip the system down to component parts and make sure everything is not corroded and the springs that hold the shoes in place are good.

I clean the insides of the 'drum' portion of the rear rotors with a rotary brush on a drill to make sure it is clean and then roughen the shoe contact surface with some emery paper.

As Abscate says, if you can post pictures we can see if there is anything else obvious.

Over the years I have heard issues of shoes being different sizes so check that they are the correct radius by placing the shoes inside the drum and checking it touches all along their length.

There should be a small hole on either trailing arm where an aluminum rivet fits to hold a cheap plastic loop that holds the cable to the trailing arm.

You could use some of that metal strapping with holes in it used in electrical house wiring, that you can cut to length. Also suggest instead of the aluminum rivet see if you can find a steel rivet instead. You can also use a suitably sized stainless washer over the rivet whether you use the plastic loop that Volvo supplies or the metal I suggest.

Wire brush the trailing arm and you should be able to find the old corroded rivet remains. Use a punch and knock it into the trailing arm or drill it if it is stubborn.

Refit everything as it should be including the adjusters and adjust as per abscates recommendation. I would add that adjust the cables at the handbrake lever until it locks the rear wheels at 4-5 clicks max, especially on a manual car.

Once it is all back together, drive the car gently with the parking brake on for maybe 50 yards to bed the shoes in at a walking pace. This is a Volvo recommendation! Also worth doing once in a while just to keep the shoes clean.

On a manual car, I would recommend removing the rear rotor once a year and cleaning out any dust to keep efficiency up and re-adjusting as required.

Good Luck!

Neil.

[Timeo]

There should be a small hole on either trailing arm where an aluminum rivet fits to hold a cheap plastic loop that holds the cable to the trailing arm.

Yeah, the plastic loop/clamp thing is what was missing hence the need for the zip ties. I have ordered the volvo retainer and will punch the rivet and use a screw in its place.

Agree, this SB a simple system, it is the same system used on my Toyota Landcruiser which I have adjusted before with no issues. Surprised the shop that did the original work from the prior owner messed it up as much as they did. Will report back what I find when rotors pulled.

[foggydogg]

There should be a small hole on either trailing arm where an aluminum rivet fits to hold a cheap plastic loop that holds the cable to the trailing arm.

Yeah, the plastic loop/clamp thing is what was missing hence the need for the zip ties. I have ordered the volvo retainer and will punch the rivet and use a screw in its place.

Agree, this SB a simple system, it is the same system used on my Toyota Landcruiser which I have adjusted before with no issues. Surprised the shop that did the original work from the prior owner messed it up as much as they did. Will report back what I find when rotors pulled.

Congratulations on the purchase, I think it was well-bought as long as there aren't any big surprises.
Don't know if you're familiar with Robert's work, he has been a presence in Volvoland for quite a while, posts here as rspi. See if anything on this video helps.

[foggydogg]

The torque on those lugs should be an indicator of the level of expertise involved in earlier repairs, although sometimes it's chain-store
tire 'technicians' doing the damage.
I dimly recall one of the commentators on BaT advising some pretty radical procedures to do a minor repair by dropping the subframe. Don't remember the exact issue but please don't do that.

[abscate]

The torque on those lugs should be an indicator of the level of expertise involved in earlier repairs, although sometimes it's chain-store
tire 'technicians' doing the damage.
I dimly recall one of the commentators on BaT advising some pretty radical procedures to do a minor repair by dropping the subframe. Don't remember the exact issue but please don't do that.

And now we don’t have JRL to gently remind people of their early experience Un-knowledge with his calm, paternal touch

[Timeo]

After reviewing the video above and the fact that the shop that installed the new cables left off the plastic clamps securing the cable to the trailing arms I am guessing they also didn't secure the cable to the cabin floor so that it is just moving around too much to activate the brake.

[scot850]

It is certainly worth a check. There should be a spring clip holding the cable in place as you mention. Also check the handbrake lever end to make sure the cable has been correctly fitted into the out cable stops.

Neil.