2001 V70XC - Brake Booster Service Topic is solved

Post by **xHeart** » 01 Jan 2023, 09:07

Does any power tool (not air tool) fits the space to undo the four 13mm nuts at the foot well; it takes 100s of 1/4-1/2 turns using socket wrench, that is after I've removed the front seat and flipped over rear seat.

Here is a Amazon searched item Cordless Electric Ratchet Wrench Set, AOBEN 3/8" 12V Power Ratchet Tool Kit With 2 Packs 2000mAh Lithium-Ion Battery And Charger

MDK · Post by **MDK** » 01 Jan 2023, 09:24

You'll need a swivel/ 13 mm, extension and probably another swivel to get up in there... watching peppermint videos is probably your best resource sometimes I'd like to apply Thor's hammer to these Volvo's.. 100's of times.. now it's fixed!

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jan 2023, 10:07

These are your best friends for this job, Neiko or ABN brand via the MVS link of course…

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00239A-Fle ... 275&sr=8-2

Post by **xHeart** » 01 Jan 2023, 19:56

Progress; brake booster is out after a million 1/16-1/8 turns, top right flange nut took forever. Both wrist are under epsom salt therapy, don't ask me about the back; it is better after stretches.

MDK Thor's hammer is inspiring!

Post by **xHeart** » 03 Jan 2023, 10:52

Feeling better after servicing the cylinder with two new Volvo/ATE seals. I'm adding turbo oil lines' seal replacement to my to-dos before brake booster goes back in - any thoughts?

: MVS_Brakebooster_3323.jpg (89.79 KiB) Viewed 671 times

FWIW: the booster seal has come off between 12 and 10 o'clock - what may have caused the seal to be pushed out like that?

Post by **xHeart** » 07 Jan 2023, 07:43

The banjo bolts on turbo - 2 coolant lines and 1 oil line - are 17mm; but ONE oil line bonjo bolt, at the corner, on the engine block is 19mm. It is a bigger bolt by all measures; I'll have to file the 2 washers flat before reusing.

FWIW: drain the coolant before removing connections at turbo.

I'm imaging loosely tie-in 2 copper seals/washers at the each end of the connection with cotton-thread to prevent is from dropping into abyss -- use gravity for positioning; then light off the cotton-tread after the bolt is through and before a snug tight. Is there a better way?

Post by **xHeart** » 10 Jan 2023, 07:49

xHeart wrote: 07 Jan 2023, 07:43 I'm imaging loosely tie-in 2 copper seals/washers at the each end of the connection with cotton-thread to prevent is from dropping into abyss -- use gravity for positioning; then light off the cotton-thread after the bonjo bolt is through, and before a snug tight.

^ It worked! the oil line connection at the engine block was a touch and feel operation with a limited view -- there is a keyhole view to help -- mirror is best to verify.

Post by **xHeart** » 13 Jan 2023, 06:50

Using Cordless Electric Ratchet Wrench is an essential tool for removing and installing brake booster -- you must loosen the lock nuts, and thread in and tighten by hand for best results -- yes, remove the front seat.

Now making it fun with Schwaben...

Post by **xHeart** » 16 Jan 2023, 17:07

Imagining brake booster with green push rod, it may help gas pedal to run a little greener.

: MVS_Brakebooster_3348.jpg (126.31 KiB) Viewed 599 times

Post by **xHeart** » 18 Jan 2023, 08:39

After adding Schwaben method to my DIY task, I may have collected all the tools for properly completing repairs under VIDA Brakes, including hydraulic, wheel brakes, parking, and pipe and lines, etc -- a shelf space labeled BRAKES perhaps.

This was some three years ago viewtopic.php?t=91484

The brakes are working once again but without hissing -- turbo is way response too after servicing fluid lines, vacuum lines, and metered air pipe.

Thank you!