Help making a Volvo radio test system (Update)

[scot850]

So I am finally starting to organise a test rig for working on the Volvo head units.

Initially I am planning just to be able to power up the units with 12V using my new power supply. Later I

I want to make up a simple board/panel to mount a few female banana plug connectors that will allow me to make up a simple disconnect from the power supply for storage and using a 3A in line fuse for safety. Later on I may try to get fancy and add speaker capability so I can also test amps and radios for sound output.

What I am finding difficult is to figure out what a 4mm banana plug can operate at in terms of V and A. Clearly they need to be 12V capable but not sure what the A needs to be as none I am finding seem to have any specs on them.

So if anyone can recommend a supplier of suitable connectors I'd appreciate it. Amazon has some stuff, so would any of these be suitable?:

https://www.amazon.ca/FULARR-Premium-Ba ... 37&sr=8-25

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07C2P ... Y5G6&psc=1

Much appreciated!

Neil.

[scot850]

I will add a question on speaker wiring. I have 2 front door speakers kicking around and plan to just to test there is some sort of sound output initially. Maybe if I run out of projects down the line I may look at adding a full set of speakers which would allow for checking all outputs and adjustments on the head units and amps. I am some what reluctant to do the whole speaker set mainly due to storage space and the reality on how often I may ever use it, but maybe.

Can anyone link me to a suitable wiring harness drawing with the speaker wiring ID's?

Follow up: Actually, I found a very good and more importantly 'simple' wiring diagram for the audio system. The most surprising thing it is in my Haynes V/S70 manual!! Yes you heard it here folks! Sometimes their wiring diagrams can be flaky as they try to cover many different models and markets but what I do like here is they actually break it out to each major system which makes it much easier for mere mechanical engineers to follow!

I have to admit initially I was confused about where half the speaker wires were missing from the harness sections I was using until I realised I had mixed an Amplifier harness section and the regular one! Once it was sorted it was simple to follow.

Neil.

[scot850]

So armed with all the advice and tutoring from abscate I managed to Radio Test System 1.0 up and working today!!

The main aim was to try to unlock a really mint SC-816 I had pulled at a junkyard. On sale I think I paid the equivalent of less than $10 US for it. Problem is that both codes I got from Volvo don't work so the radio went to the security 'OFF' on the LCD which prevents further attempts for those who don't know (you get 3 tries).

Well system 1.0 successfully passed the first test and unlocked the radio back to CODE after about 90 minutes. Tried the codes again an still a NO. I have to believe as this is a Factory reconditioned unit it may be that it was re-programmed after repair and I have not been given the correct code yet. I have put the call out to Volvo for help.

The plan is to make the system simple but modular so it can test Volvo P80 Head units, then amps, wiring harnesses for the amps and finally speakers. I am hoping to make it to the junkyard this weekend to pull some speakers as there are a few P80's there and bonus is I have a $20 off coupon and speakers are on for $5 each (as there are 8 speakers).

Below is a picture of the 1.0 system. Simple but works but still needs some refinement

Test system 1.0

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I got a useful switch control system for a boat from Amazon (I used the Matthew link of course! ). Each of the 5 switches have a waterproof fuse holder so I am using 3A fuses in place of the 15A supplied. So far I have used the minimum of 2 switches and the common ground.

Switch system from Amazon

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Useful as the control panel also has a 12V outlet and 2 x 5V x 2.1A USB connections. This will be useful hopefully for testing things like Bluetooth and charger units for phones if needed.

Rear of switch system

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Switch #1 is for the ignition switch power feed which wakes the head unit up
Switch #2 is for the 2 constant live power feeds which include the memory for radio stations

Next I will add Switch #3 for the power feed from the instrument cluster which powers the lighting so that can also be checked.

Once I build a speaker holder unit, I will then easily use the standard harness and plugs I have pulled which will allow me to add the amplifier harness when I need to test it or an amplifier as it connects directly to the standard 2 larger connectors to the radio.

I have a spare sedan power aerial so I hope to add the testing of radio stations as well as testing CD operation and cassettes.

This is mostly a 'just for fun' project as I have most of the stuff already and should come in under $100 CDN (75US) not including the power supply which I use for other stuff as well.

Neil.