1987 245 Daily Driver Project Topic is solved

[WGFP]

I'm compiling this from a thread on another site that has been very helpful, but I'm hoping to get some more answers from the higher traffic over here. Plus, it gives us a place to keep track of what I would call more of a revival than a restoration.

Last year, my son bought a 1987 245 in very good condition. One reason it was in very good condition is that it had sat for most of the past ~15 years since its owner moved to New England, so there is very little in the way of corrosion. On the other hand, we're finding other things that need help that are typical for a car that hadn't moved much (a couple days after he bought it, the rubber fuel line section from the tank burst, and just recently we were surprised by the rear cam seal on the valve cover popping out and causing a good mess). Last week, the alternator died, so it sat for a few days until the new one came in and we had time to install it.

We've got very good service records going back to the early 1990s, with the last major work before he bought it happening in early 2021 on the fuel system. The upholstery is beautiful original-looking blue vinyl - evidently previous owner had it redone by an Amish craftsman, and they did a really nice job.

Mileage is approaching 150k on odometer, but according to the excellent maintenance records, the teeth broke off the gear in 2003 at 143k and remained that way until we fixed it last summer. Based on what we can reconstruct, we estimate the car is actually approaching 200k.

We started work on it and then he headed out to spend some time with the Army (he's Nat'l Guard), and now that he's back we're working on it about one day a week.

Our goals - a reliable daily driver for him to get to school, work, and activities up in the mountains 12 months a year. Since mileage is suspect, we're trying to set a baseline on routine maintenance items so that he can be proactive in the future. He has a dream of a big cross-country camping trip in a year or so, and we'd like it to be pretty solid by then.

So far beyond oil changes and lube, work we've done is below. We'll try to keep this first post updated as we do more.

Engine:
Replaced Exhaust/welded y-pipe, replaced gasket.
Replaced/relocated flame trap
Replace Rear cam/cover seal (added IPD retention device)
Replaced valve cover gasket
There's a trace of surface corrosion on the cam we noticed when we opened up the valve cover, so we're planning on oil changes every 1k for a while.
Magnetic oil drain plug
Oil filter magnet
Alternator
Seafoam in crank case and gas tank after last oil change.

2/2023:
- Flushed cooling system, r2 coolant hoses and clamps. Left thermostat installed as it looked good and appears to be functioning well.
- Replaced cam cover stud that I sheared off!
3/2023:
- Rotor/cap/plugs/wires/looms
- Replaced nut/tightened exhaust mount
4/2023:
- R/R Battery
7/2023
- Replaced main fuel filter


Running Gear:
Replaced Front/rear brakes
Replaced Master cylinder
In the process, pumped a solid half-gallon or more of DOT 4 through the lines as there was some debris
Replaced rear springs (IPD +300lb)
2/2023: Bilstein B6 rear shocks and hardware (front struts seem good for now).
4/2023:
Alloys put back on w new summer tires
7/2023
- Replace clutch/pressure plate/fork/fork boot/bearing
- Replace center bearing support


Electrical/Instrumentation:
Replaced headlight relay (considering rebuilding old one)
Replaced bulb failure relay (going to jumper the old one to have as a spare)
Replaced odometer gear
Slowly working through wrapping harnesses with deteriorating insulation and hitting connectors with Penetrox
Replaced fuel pump relay
Replaced fuel pump in-line fuse holder with IPD waterproof one
2/2023: Replace flosser fuses

Misc:
Hot Oil undercoat (we've found this is the only answer for a long-term daily driver in New Hampshire - we'll repeat yearly for 3 years or so, then go to every other year)
Wiper blades
Winter wheels/tires - found an incredible deal on these and a lot of parts from a guy who had sold a pair of 244s.
Installed a rail-mount Yakima rack.
Minor trim fixes/re-attaches
Fix some small stone chips/treat corrosion
Replaced a few bulbs (including headlights before we learned what a headlight relay was!)

Projects with Parts in-Hand or On Way:
Timing belt/tensioner/harmonic balancer (last done a decade ago, and odometer was nonfunctional - estimate ~15k since then)
Fuel pressure regulator
4x V-belts
Water pump
Motor/transmission mounts (look OK but worn)
Seafoam intake treatment
Replace missing pre-heat air hose
IPD anti-roll bars 25mm f/r
Poly control link bushings
Ball joints
Tie rods/ends/boots
Poly torque rod bushings
Alignment (after front end work)

Long-range projects:
Replace oil/steering hoses (most look good from outside and seem pliable, but don't want surprises)
AC troubleshoot/fix
Clean window lift gear - fronts run pretty slow
New switches for rear window lifts (question to follow)
Build a fly rod holder for the Yakima rack
Replace windshield gasket (or entire windshield with later model)
Summer tires, once this winter is over
Coil in the boot as an emergency spare
Fix underhood trouble light (replaced bulb, but no effect)

Far future projects:
Pull/replace rear window (a little rust starting near seal on bottom)
Fix heated seats
Rally-style driving lights?

Parts we're looking for:
Window lift rocker switch and clips
Fusebox cover (short)

We're definitely up for ideas and suggestions. That's why we're here. I'll post more pics of progress as well as to help with some questions. Thanks in advance!

[BlackBart]

Sounds like good thorough list. All the “Stage 0” baseline tuneup stuff is good. Were cleaning injectors / o-rings in there? You’ve got most of them listed, but I would reiterate changing all rubber - fuel, vacuum lines, brake lines, suspension bushings.

When you do the oil spray on the bottom, do you mask off exhaust or just let it burn off?

[WGFP]

Sounds like good thorough list. All the “Stage 0” baseline tuneup stuff is good. Were cleaning injectors / o-rings in there? You’ve got most of them listed, but I would reiterate changing all rubber - fuel, vacuum lines, brake lines, suspension bushings.

Good point. The fuel injectors were replaced relatively recently, but we should pull/inspect/clean them, and replacing o-rings is a good call. Yes, rubber is getting replaced a bit at a time so that we don't have to do it on an emergency basis as we did for the fuel line.

When you do the oil spray on the bottom, do you mask off exhaust or just let it burn off?

He does a pretty good job of minimizing spray onto the exhaust, but there's a bit of burn-off, and it drips for a few days (we keep it parked out in the gravel) so more burn-off afterwards. He also drills and plugs a few tap holes to spray inside frame members and crevices. I've bought a few used cars up here, and ~4-5yrs is about the oldest I'll buy one that hasn't been oiled. After that, unless the owner has been fastidious about underbody wash, it's often too late - you see the warning signs as soon as you get under the car and sometimes already in the door panels and lower quarters/fenders.

[WGFP]

Questions for the gurus here.

First, the cockpit layout doesn't seem to jive with other 1987 examples I have seen on the net in that the window lift switches are mounted on the top of the e-brake housing and are the older-style rocker switches vs the ones I have found listed for an 87 240. I'm in need of a switch (the one on the right is just a shell with no switch components) and also two retaining clips to keep both in the housing. Any ideas where I could find them?

Second, the upper edges of the windscreen gasket have shrunk and pulled away, leaving a gap. The windscreen doesn't leak, but should we seal the gaps with silicone or something similar until we eventually replace the whole shebang?

[volvolugnut]

Consider:
Driveshaft U-joints and center bearing condition. There is a rubber support in the center bearing that may have sagged.
Brake hoses (as mentioned above).
Silicone sealer does not last well as a windshield sealer. I tried it. Butyl rubber may be better.
volvolugnut

[volvolugnut]

WDFP,
My 1987 244 is also white with blue interior. But yours is much nicer.
volvolugnut

[BlackBart]

Just thought of:
Coolant temperature sensor.

[WGFP]

WDFP,
My 1987 244 is also white with blue interior. But yours is much nicer.
volvolugnut

He found a peach. I was pretty skeptical when he said he wanted to go take a look at it. I thought it sounded too good to be true. We had a chance to talk to the mechanic who had done a good bit of work on it also, and that enticed us to take the drive. In the end this will cost him more in both money and work than a nice used Corolla or Civic, but he'll enjoy it more, learn a lot more, and it's a good fit for him.

[WGFP]

Just thought of:
Coolant temperature sensor.

Replace, or just pull, clean off mineral deposits, and reinstall if working OK?

[BlackBart]

I don't think they're that much. If it can be tested, then sure. My son and I went through a project BMW E30 coupe for him in HS / college. 1986. We replaced every sensor, sender, hose, pump, belt, injectors (rebuilt), seals, idle control valve, the whole bit.