PCV Write-up for 1999+ Volvo 5-cylinder 31325709

[Eddystone]

Mike, outstanding. I'll add links to this in Links to Major Repairs (P80) and in its P2 counterpart.

Tip o' the hat to Justin for the head's up on this!

Thank you, Mike. Good work, and the time and effort are appreciated.

A suggestion: Can we change the SUBJECT to specify not only the year of the engine but ALSO which engine it is? When I was new to these cars, I watched videos and read DIYs thinking I knew what I was getting into only to realize that my 1999 2.3L T5 engine configuration was completely different from the engines in the How-To and videos.

It would be better if the engine type was specified to save the people who are not aware of all the variations because some of the differences are significant.

[jmartin919]

I just acquired a 2000 S70 GLT SE (2.4L Turbo AT) with 107K miles that my brother ditched because the dealer told him the repairs would be more than the car is worth (or close to it). He was told it had a leaking and displaced intake cam seal, leaking RMS, and needed to have the PCV system replaced along with a new timing belt (and water pump while at it) and serpentine belt due to both being oil soaked. I was able to verify the need for all of these repairs (in addition to a leaking rear hydraulic mount, broken upper mount bushing, broken trans link mount, leaking turbo oil return seal, cracked coil so far). I also observed the cam seal walking out of the bore (I could stick my finger through a whole in the cam gear and push the seal back in some what) What I couldn't verify was the need for the PCV system. At idle it passes the glove test on the oil filler very well and no smoke out of the dipstick. At 2000 RPM I can't even remove the oil filler cap without a large pair of channel locks. Considering this, is it still possible that there is an issue with the PCV that's causing the leaking/displaced seals? Tempted to pull the engine/trans and go from there but if the leaking RMS is due to the PCV I may just do the PCV first. Engine runs great with lots of power.

[Eddystone]

I'm not the ultimate expert on these cars. However, if you have negative pressure (vacuum) under those conditions, I would say that proves the PCV system is functioning. Cam seals, like every other part on the car, have a service life. Eventually, they need to be replaced even if there is no problem with the PCV. It is a maintenance issue. Also, your car may have had a PCV issue earlier that was addressed.

There's a universal truth about these cars: If you take it to a Volvo dealer, the repairs will exceed the value of the car. Why? Volvo dealers charge a huge amount for service. Volvo dealers keep cars running by replacing every part that could possibly fail pre-emptively. Volvo techs do not want to work on old Volvos, and Volvo dealers want you to buy new Volvos.

Independent Volvo specialists are also expensive.

If you can do repairs yourself or find a friend to help you, these cars can go well over 200k miles with no problem. Usually, what you are doing is simply catching up with maintenance that wasn't done. Once you fix an issue, it's usually gone forever, never to return.

At 107k miles, a 2000 S70 is barely broken in. If it's in nice cosmetic shape, you could drive it enjoyably for years and years. If it's not your one and only vehicle, I'd say take your time and sort the car out. They are good cars. If your job and your life depend on this car and you need it right now, find a 2004 Buick LeSabre with an immortal GM 3.8 V-6.

Servicing the PCV means mostly replacing all of the components, and it can be a pain in the ass to do. Access is not good, and parts are finicky to reassemble. But it doesn't sound to me like you need to replace it.

Long answer to a simple question.

[jmartin919]

I can take as much time as I want on this car. Probably going to pull the engine/trans. Any suggestions on what else to take care of while it's out would be appreciated. Someone mentioned knock sensors.

[Eddystone]

Ask that of the list in general when you have the engine out! There's no limit to what you can replace as preventive maintenance. The trick is knowing where to stop. There are certainly some seals and turbo cooling hoses behind the engine. I have a T5 Turbo in my S70 which differs in many ways from the standard turbo and is, I think, harder to work on and identify parts for. It wails, but I think a standard turbo is easier to deal with. My 98 V70 is non-turbo and has the simpler electronics. Much simpler to work on.

[Krons]

I can take as much time as I want on this car. Probably going to pull the engine/trans. Any suggestions on what else to take care of while it's out would be appreciated. Someone mentioned knock sensors.

Being 23 years old anything made of rubber is worth replacing. Recently did orings on the oil pan pickup tube of an 02 2.4T S60 as they were getting brittle and it was sucking air, flickering low oil pressure light.

[DamianB]

Hello guys,

I'm getting ready for PCV replacement in my V70 2001 170HP N/A and just noticed some additional metal clip/bracket on fuel quick connect line. Is this factory one? How to remove it?

Zrzut ekranu 2023-10-03 091908.png (49.27 KiB) Viewed 347 times

Zrzut ekranu 2023-10-03 091952.png (411.29 KiB) Viewed 347 times

I guess the part number is 8649736 if that helps...

[abscate]

Hmm, that’s a strange fuel connection. I have not seen that before

[jmartin919]

The clip just pops off at both ends. There's a special tool to get the lines apart but maybe you can improvise something to release it. If not you can disassemble it from the fuel rail. I believe I've seen a Youtube video showing how to do that. You take the back cover off and then the fuel line comes out with the oring on it. I could not find a suitable replacement for that oring on my 2000 S70 but fortunately I didn't need to.

[DamianB]

The clip just pops off at both ends. There's a special tool to get the lines apart but maybe you can improvise something to release it. If not you can disassemble it from the fuel rail. I believe I've seen a Youtube video showing how to do that. You take the back cover off and then the fuel line comes out with the oring on it. I could not find a suitable replacement for that oring on my 2000 S70 but fortunately I didn't need to.

Thanks, if it just pops off then it's a relief I don't need to purchase any special tool. I do have fuel line disconnect tool so I should be fine once I remove this metal clip. Seems like an extra precaution item in case quick connect fails and disconnects by itself (which already seems very unlikely to happen).