What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[scot850]

Nope. It is a new build where the idiots that built it put in 24" stud centers!!

So not too keep to add a heavy item to the walls although they will probably be ok. I think if it happens, it will be a ceiling hanger. I think I have the ideal spot.

Thanks for the idea though.

Neil.

[MrAl]

Hi Neil,

Ive seen studs spaced 24 inches apart in old houses probably the norm back then.

If you first mount a wood plank maybe 6 inches wide and 28 inches long you can mount it to that using steel L brackets.
If it is really heavy then maybe wood 10 inches by 28 inches, or if really heavy plywood 24 x 28 inches.
You can paint the backing board to make it look nice.

[abscate]

The Creator put women into our lives to prevent:

Our gas tanks from going under 1/4 full
Keeping us out of the ER by stopping “ hold my beer” action
And thinking rusty car parts are art…

[yanga001]

Been sick the past week and a half but used the nights to plan out the engine swap for the summer.

Step 1 is getting the car up north and into the garage
Step 2 is pulling the wrecked engine and tranny out of the car.
Step 2.5: assess the power steering, i have a decent rack in the crashed car and a god tier rack in the parts car. The one with the dead engine was on the way out so it probably would be a good idea to change.
Step 2.75 do i want to install the oem exhaust into the car? I have spares in parts cars...
Step 3 is deciding between the engine in the crashed car or the engine that seemingly drinks coolant. Ill need to properly check the condition of the donor car to see if it is a better bet.
Step 4 is deciding if it is worth it to do valve stem seals on either car. For sure I would do the rear main seal as preventative maintenance and the PCV (pull the recently serviced one from the crashed car. Timing belt and water pump would be done while the engine is out of the car. Both engines are higher km's (300's) however it is fairly difficult to find a p80 for parts as of recent. This car would not be a daily until its 100%.

If by some miracle i am able to get a running car out of the above 4 steps to success then ill change the body panels that i have had sitting in the garage for a few years, fit the OEM tow hitch, change the bumper supports, and do some other general things.

Cost wise i would be in it for an engine hoist, the parts to rebuild the head if i decide to do it, and maybe some pry bars. I have amassed a good amount of discount wrenches, torque wrenches, and other goodies so that shouldnt be an issue.

[Chuck W]

Step 4 is deciding if it is worth it to do valve stem seals on either car.

Having done the valve seals in the car, I suggest you tackle it while the engine is out of the car. MUCH easier to deal with the exhaust ones on the back of the engine.

The intake ones went pretty quickly with the regular "lever" tool, the rears took at least 2-3 times longer. Even with my tool I made to free up both hands for fiddling with getting the keepers back in place.


My wife's car needs valve seals, and I'm going to have to (unfortunately) do that job with the engine in the car as well.

[P80GLT]

Having been 3 years since the 850 A/C was last services and was still working I decided to have it done today to keep it all in good working order

[CIK7]

My repaste with rtv of the sunroof a few days ago was worthless. Last eve and this morning, I worked on the sunroof seal on the donor car. I used N_D's step-by-step here viewtopic.php?t=70515&hilit=sunroof+repair. I accidentally installed seal back to front with the split in front. Just a couple hours ago I tested fitment on donor car then swapped the sunroof on ol' Rotten Tomato. I have an extra sunroof now. I tested leakage on sunroof, sunroof drain, and windshield. As far as I can tell, it was a pass.

I also replaced the spark plugs and installed a 'cooler' coolant thermostat with new seal. I think Volvo oem is 192F or 198F, but I chose a 180F Gates. The old thermostat was garbage. Only 1 year and the gasket was already a bit eaten.

[valvolvo70]

Replaced a 3 y/o PCV crankcase breather tube (URO kit) with genuine Volvo and then dug in to my used (eBay) power steering pump. All went well, no leaks but many bruises. Just shy of 250K.

[foggydogg]

My repaste with rtv of the sunroof a few days ago was worthless. Last eve and this morning, I worked on the sunroof seal on the donor car. I used N_D's step-by-step here viewtopic.php?t=70515&hilit=sunroof+repair. I accidentally installed seal back to front with the split in front. Just a couple hours ago I tested fitment on donor car then swapped the sunroof on ol' Rotten Tomato. I have an extra sunroof now. I tested leakage on sunroof, sunroof drain, and windshield. As far as I can tell, it was a pass.

I also replaced the spark plugs and installed a 'cooler' coolant thermostat with new seal. I think Volvo oem is 192F or 198F, but I chose a 180F Gates. The old thermostat was garbage. Only 1 year and the gasket was already a bit eaten.

The computer will be confused by the low coolant temp. It really is designed to run best with the stock thermostat.

[abscate]

Dropped #3 coil on Shagg about 5 miles from old home port at end of 200 mile trip. Replaced in 5 minutes with UBG stash. Something to be said for driving a platform of cars and getting familiar with the failures.

Almost couldn’t feel rough running above 2000 rpm but shake at idle