1995 Volvo 850 Auto Engine and transmission Removal Topic is solved

[erikv11]

Hi Wheelsup - I'm following your tutorial to put a new (used) tranny in my 850. It has been an incredible help to a noob like me. One question though: why did you remove the intake manifold? It looks like there is room to remove the engine with it attached. Is that true, or do things shift when removing it so you have to take it off? Thanks, Rick

In my other tutorial I dropped the transmission out the bottom - it was a lot easier to do that if just replacing the transmission.

It's been awhile since I've done this but IIRC in order to take the engine out the top you have to disconnect lots of stuff under the intake manifold. Therefore it must come off. Just going by memory, could be wrong though.

Hi Wheelsup,

Where can your other tutorial be found? I need to change the clutch but I don't fancy pulling the whole shindig out.

Thanks a lot this is art.

It's this one https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... hp?t=53437

[stickyglass24]

Hello, I hope all is well. I have a project 1996 850 Estate that I am starting an engine rebuild. I am just about ready to pull the motor yet need to turn the motor over so that I can loosen the torx bolts for the torque converter. After that I should be just about ready to pull the motor. I've run into some issues 1 being that I did not put the car in neutral to turn the motor to get to all 6 torx bolts. Is there an easy way of getting the tranny itself to neutral? (I have battery out and wiring harness all disconnected) Also I was told it matters which way you turn the motor, is this true? I've always turned them clock wise and never had issues but this is my first Swedish inline 5.

P.S I went to pay and support through the Amazon link and my account is linked to my work phone which is not on me at the moment so when i get to that phone i will confirm. Thank You

[erikv11]

Car can be in park for this as long as the wheels are in the air and can rotate freely. Use the big nut on the crank pulley to rotate clockwise looking at the engine from the passenger wheel well.

But you can do this when the whole thing is out of the car. Or are you not removing them together (subject of this thread)?

[wheelsup]

Hi Wheelsup - I'm following your tutorial to put a new (used) tranny in my 850. It has been an incredible help to a noob like me. One question though: why did you remove the intake manifold? It looks like there is room to remove the engine with it attached. Is that true, or do things shift when removing it so you have to take it off? Thanks, Rick

In my other tutorial I dropped the transmission out the bottom - it was a lot easier to do that if just replacing the transmission.

It's been awhile since I've done this but IIRC in order to take the engine out the top you have to disconnect lots of stuff under the intake manifold. Therefore it must come off. Just going by memory, could be wrong though.

Hi Wheelsup,

Where can your other tutorial be found? I need to change the clutch but I don't fancy pulling the whole shindig out.

Thanks a lot this is art.

Sorry I hardly come on here any more. It's late but here it is if you did not find it.

viewtopic.php?t=53437

[jmartin919]

1995 Volvo 850 At step #9, did you remove the ball joint bolt completely? If you don't the ball joint will not come out.

[scot850]

Step #9 is about wiring and engine sensor removal?

Neil.

[jmartin919]

1995 Volvo 850 No , the first post by wheelsup. It's step 9 under "Section A prepping the car"

[scot850]

Ah , OK then. He is still correct, it is almost impossible to remove the ball-joint without A) a large hammer and B) a large lump of wood or chisel near the ball joint end. When I remove the control arm for anything I always remove the other end as wheelsup says. Only place I don't is the junkyard. I have an impact gun so it does not take long. I leave the ball-joint blot in place and then you don't have to replace it or try to fight it back in.

Neil.

[jmartin919]

1995 Volvo 850 I use a 3 foot wrecking bar and pry down between the arm and the frame. I guess it depends on how long that ball joint has been in there as to how hard it is to separate.. And it's a pain to try to get a toque wrench and angle wrench in there on the control arm bolts (that should be replaced if removed). Bonus on the '93 is you can replace just the ball joint and not the whole control arm.

[scot850]

Yes those 93's with the replaceable ball joints and aluminum control arms were a good idea. Still don't like forcing the ball joint out as more likely to damage it. Each to their own and what works for them! Up hear with all the salt on the roads it is not easy to get the ball joints out.
I have never replaced the control arm bolts on a 2 bolt set up. Those are not torque to yield. I do replace the ball joint bolt every time as heard way too many instances of that failing on re-use.

Neil.