P001A: 2013 XC90 3.2 non turbo AWD

[stokesy]

Hello friends, I've got a stubborn P001A code on a 2013 XC90 3.2L. Code P001A is: A Camshaft Profile Control Circuit/Open Bank 1. Good info here: https://www.obd-codes.com/p001a

Symptoms are power loss and misfires over 4k rpm. Code sets immediately if I clear it. Misfire are on cyls 2+3. ECU live data says timing advance varies from -10% to +38%.

I threw parts at the problem and replaced the VVT solenoid (are there 2?). No change. 0.1V steady on the VVT solenoid wires. I suppose next up is checking resistance on cam and crank sensors and continuity checks on wiring?

I'm a bit skeptical of the wiring on top of this engine as it gets hot under the cover. Will update thread as I learn more.

Thanks for any help or guidance.

[chitownV]

I see you searched and found this thread,
viewtopic.php?t=73812

Not sure what you mean about the wiring as every 3.2 and 3.0T has the cover and harness. There are isolated incidents for all engines and it’s still good practice to double check wiring. With this I6 being one of the most produced engines, behind the 2.4/2.5/t engines, it’s safe to say 99% don’t have wire harness issues.

The only modern era widespread harness issue I know of was with Mercedes in the 90s where they tried biodegradable insulation, which was not supposed to break down for decades, but it accelerated due to heat. An engineering mishap.

As far as the solenoids, here is an example of changing in pairs as they can move at different rates. You can test them out of the engine with a 12V source. Sometimes a 9V battery is enough too if you can’t get a wired 12V.
https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/whic ... 3d.644591/

This will also help with the solenoid locations, since there are more than one.
https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/p003 ... id.614523/

Since you are following a generic code, VIDA might be able to help locate the specific solenoid, source of code, or show additional live data that could help diagnose. Ignition timing advance should vary wide, which could show the cam position sensors may be working. Non-specific readers can’t always read and display all banks, all sensors, or display the correct sensor.

Solenoids are mechanical so any variation, clogging, play, or wear can happen. They are just triggered electronically and we sometime have to factor the age/wear of the old solenoids as well, especially if there is any history of using non-synthetic oil and following Volvos recommended extended 7,500 miles oil change intervals (the oil breaks down).

Good luck

[stokesy]

Thanks for the reply, great info there. I had already pulled the passenger side VVT solenoid and was disappointed that the replacement solenoid wasn't the same part. So it seems that Rockauto sells the driver's side VVT solenoid only. If I need the other one I will source it elsewhere or find the exact part number.

Today I ran some Seafoam through the oil galleys. Instant improvement! The car runs smoothly over 5k rpm now and the VVT code is still present, but it's "inactive" (and permanent?!). I suppose it will clear with some more drive cycles? The P0420 is also "permanent" but I'm hoping the cat clean treatment resolves that.

The only reason I'm suspect on the wiring harness is that's what melted on my I5 06 XC70. The engine cover on that model is too tight and it's really hot under there. See my other thread here if you're interested in the story: /viewtopic.php?p=595808
To make a long story short, I rewired all of the coils after the insulation melted and the wires all lost their color coding due to the excess heat

The XC90 cover isn't too tight, so it looks like oil sludging in the VVT system was the problem. So for anyone out there having VVT problems, I recommend Seafoam as the first line of treatment.

[chitownV]

Ahh, you bought it from Rockauto. You want to check the part # with one of the Volvo associated online outlets and you can purchase from FCP. I’ve had one part with them in my long history where it was listed wrong. It was a crossover year for a trans mount on a Mercedes, but they accepted the part back no problem.

Yeah, oil is so important and using full synthetic 0W-40 should be used at 5k mile intervals. You should change the oil not too long from now since you added seafoam. The I5 engines did have more occasions where the ignition coil harness did crack and needed to be rewired. I never had to do wiring on a 2.5t, but there are online threads about it.

Have you read this post as it goes over oil, P0420, and many 3.2 service items? https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/the- ... st-7332383

[stokesy]

Rockauto.

it is what is is. Price was 60% lower than elsewhere, and I don't do EBay much anymore after buying a fake timing belt kit With the prospect of possibly needing primary cats for the rig, I'm going cheapo on parts. The Dorman PCV valve repair kit was crap and super overpriced, terrible fitment. $200 less than OEM tho. Happy to upgrade if she can smog (Cali).

Yeah, oil is so important and using full synthetic 0W-40 should be used at 5k mile intervals. You should change the oil not too long from now since you added seafoam. The I5 engines did have more occasions where the ignition coil harness did crack and needed to be rewired. I never had to do wiring on a 2.5t, but there are online threads about it.

Have you read this post as it goes over oil, P0420, and many 3.2 service items? https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/the- ... st-7332383

Oil change is up in 1k miles, but I'll probably do it in a few hundred to flush the Seafoam.

Great stuff on the B6324S (I think I have 5S?, almost identical) I enjoy nerding out on engine specs and design. Thanks, and happy wrenching!

I will update this thread if I have more insights on VVT and cats issues.