T6 Engine Replacement (2011 S80)

B3024T · Post by **B3024T** » 15 May 2023, 18:54

Good evening, I am in need of assistance determining the following engine choice as my current engine 214,000 miles has low compression in cylinder 4 and is on its way out after I replaced an ignition coil to temporarily give it some life. Not giving up on my ride I am in my search of an engine replacement. I came across the 2014 and a 2012 model. The only difference I see in the two is that the 2014 has an inter-cooled turbo. The 2014 has 73k miles on it and the 2012 has 96k miles. I want to go with the lessor of the two in mileage but I am very gun shy of the 2014 because it might require additional maintenance on the intercooler. I am seeking some suggestions. This car was serviced completely at Volvo for its entire life and quite frustrating that a compression issue ended this ride.
I truly believe the oil consumption in this car was bad at 100k miles. I knew something was not right. Anyway, I digress. Thank you!

Post by **June** » 15 May 2023, 21:35

Choose the engine that is the same. The 3.0 T6 engine came in three variants. B6304T2, Or B6304T4, and the Polstar B6304T5. I'm quite sure all three use a intercooler? June

B3024T · Post by **B3024T** » 16 May 2023, 06:36

Thank you June. The 2012 would be the exact same engine. The 2014 has a higher service interval and was intriguing but I had the same feeling about purchasing an engine specifically tailored to my year of car. Does anyone or do you know if these type of engines are prone to the compression failure in general under regular maintenance? It just seems odd that the regular service intervals did nothing to prolong the life of this engine. I have been spoiled in the past I guess with cars that exceed 250k miles and was hoping this would have met that mark.

Post by **June** » 16 May 2023, 09:38

How did you determine the #4 cylinder has low compression? Did you do a wet compression test to determine if it's a valve issue or the rings? Did you compression test #3 and #5 to rule out the head gasket? Perhaps scope #4?

To answer your question; I don't believe those engines having problems with dead cylinders. PCV box, REED and timing chain are common issues for that engine family when abused. I personally would want to know that a valve job or head gasket wouldn't fix it before condemning it. June

B3024T · Post by **B3024T** » 16 May 2023, 18:04

How did you determine the #4 cylinder has low compression? We did a cold and warm compression and the psi was 90.

Did you do a wet compression test to determine if it's a valve issue or the rings? Yes, we also did a wet compression and replaced the coil pack and spark to give it some life. It worked for a day or so but then regressed to where it is today.

Did you compression test #3 and #5 to rule out the head gasket? Yes, all other cylinders were where they needed to be, I believe 125psi (I do not have the numbers in front of me).

Perhaps scope #4? We did not scope 4 as it was determined through testing it was not holding. We believe the valve stem or cap might be wearing down and allowing pressure to not build and escape.

I spoke with many mechanics about this issue and they all agreed that the engine is not worth boring or machining due to the cost.

To answer your question; I don't believe those engines having problems with dead cylinders. PCV box, REED and timing chain are common issues for that engine family when abused. I personally would want to know that a valve job or head gasket wouldn't fix it before condemning it. June

Post by **June** » 17 May 2023, 16:41

A wet compression test is how to check the rings. Engine cold check compression say it's 90. The/n rem add Engine oil into the still cold cylinder and retest the compression. Say it jumps to 125 you know it's bad rings, say it stays at 90 then it's a valve. If it needs a valve job that's doable. June

Post by **Krons** » 17 May 2023, 21:43

A valve job on an engine you know may be better than a used engine you don’t.

B3024T · Post by **B3024T** » 19 May 2023, 09:18

Well my car died last night. On my way home from work it lost all power and coasted to the side of the highway with a foul odor. It was a short lived repair that is for sure. The shop did all of those tests and it was still failing to meet the PSI required. I found an engine from a Volvo Parts Supplier with 93k miles on it. The engine comes with a lifetime warranty. They ran a compression and leak down test and all is good. Interesting enough they recommended I change my oil every 3k miles and use 20w50 in the T6. This was never recommended nor communicated to me in all the years servicing at Volvo. Whether it is true or not is up for debate but this time around I plan to do things a whole lot differently with this engine. Including the oil viscosity and manufacturer. I am taking a chance on doing this as I love this car and want to pass it down to my kids at some point. Call me crazy but I am not into car payments these days!

Post by **June** » 19 May 2023, 15:29

My S80 T6 runs Redline synthetic 5W-30 year round since 2016 or 17 3K oil change. Before that, I always opted for the synthetic dealerships use 5W30 the cooler couple months and 10W30 Summer as Volvo requires for the 2004 2.9 Twin Charged T6 engine. Volvo required via the maintenance schedule 5K oil changes, but I always insisted on 3K or 3 months. My S80 engine is silent at idle still. Also the driver side turbo started to fail at 219K by passing .5 quart per 3K back last year. I had my dealership replace both turbos and the car is back to no oil usage with no end in sight. Matthew quoted me once as saying if the accelerator wasn't supposed to hit the floor it would stop higher. I floor it regularly and always have...

Putting 20W50 in that engine is stupid! That oil must flow easily to keep the READ assembly and timing chain properly oiled. I imagine 5W30 is likely correct. 3K oil changes is good advice however. June

B3024T · Post by **B3024T** » 22 May 2023, 12:04

Would you recommend redline or amsoil? With the updated oil change increments would you recommend I stay with a conventional synthetic or pay a premium? I will make sure to use 5w30 as I cannot fathom anything greater than that going through this engine. I also live in a normal climate and do not experience extreme temperatures. I am having my car picked up and delivered to the mechanic this weekend to have the work completed next week. I want to ship with a Mann Oil Filter and accompanying oil.