Hi All,
I've been battling with an AC problem with my S60 2.5T AWD for 2 months now.. Car is currently at 180k miles. Have owned the car for 7 years.
To start, the AC has always blown ice cold, every single day, with no issues what so ever. Took the car to my local mechanic to get the AC condenser changed proactively as it was completely smashed in on the bottom from PO hitting rocks/bugs with the car. Not a single fin was straight. Going to be taking the car on a long hot road trip in September (or was the plan..) and didn't want issues with overheating. I've had issues in the past with the trans getting too hot.
Ever since, we cannot get the AC to stop cycling. First condenser blew up when they put 2.2lbs or 1000g in the system. Got a replacement (Thanks FCP!), and so they went down to 1.54lbs or 700g which is what it says on the sticker on the car (says .7kb to be specific). But now, the AC compressor will not run long enough. Cycles on for 1-2 seconds, off for 10 seconds, and just repeat that. Lines coming from the compressor only get cold about 6 inch up the line and is warm from there. Got a replacement compressor as mine was definitely on it's way out anyway, but same issue is happening. Cycling too much and barely running.
We both think it's not enough freon, but he doesn't want to blow up something again. I got lucky with the FCP warranty already, lol. I did call the dealer and they confirmed my VIN is supposed to be 1000g, but wondering if someone else may be able to confirm that. Cap says .7kg and what I saw online says 700g as well. My VIN is YV1RH592172631186
Mechanic has also triple checked for leaks, and is always able to vacuum out the exact amount of freon he puts in, so we're confident it's not leaking anywhere.
Reference to 700g here
https://bads.lt/en/volvo-refrigerant-fi ... an-1234yf/
07 S60 AC Help - Hot air/cycling compressor
- soulvoid21
- Posts: 95
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- Year and Model: 2020 S60 T6 AWD
- Location: Berwick, PA
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yanga001
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What is the fill pressure, what is the refrigerant in use, what is the interior cabin temperature sensor reading.
How did they blow up a condenser as in what did the damage look like. Was it a true blowout, manufacturing defect, etc. The systems in these cars have a high pressure sensor that when tripped will disable the air conditioning. Furthermore, there is a blower fan on the front that usually goes to max speed if the pressure is too high.
On my 08 S60 2.5T i have noted the following with charges:
When overcharged the radiator fan will engage and sound like a jet engine as it tries to lower the pressure
When undercharged ie near zero you can get a similar effect
Short cycling usually means you have too low refrigerant
Get pressure readings on both ends. The car will report high pressure readings over VIDA/ a good scan tool so you have that much.
These cars will also tell you the evaporator temperature which can be used to help know if you have enough charge (should reach sub 5C).
Hope this helps!
How did they blow up a condenser as in what did the damage look like. Was it a true blowout, manufacturing defect, etc. The systems in these cars have a high pressure sensor that when tripped will disable the air conditioning. Furthermore, there is a blower fan on the front that usually goes to max speed if the pressure is too high.
On my 08 S60 2.5T i have noted the following with charges:
When overcharged the radiator fan will engage and sound like a jet engine as it tries to lower the pressure
When undercharged ie near zero you can get a similar effect
Short cycling usually means you have too low refrigerant
Get pressure readings on both ends. The car will report high pressure readings over VIDA/ a good scan tool so you have that much.
These cars will also tell you the evaporator temperature which can be used to help know if you have enough charge (should reach sub 5C).
Hope this helps!
1998 S70 N/A Auto (Parts car)(planned to be harvested)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar
)
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)
- firstv70volvo
- Posts: 574
- Joined: 6 March 2010
- Year and Model: V70 T5 2001
- Location: Sacramento, CA
- Has thanked: 52 times
- Been thanked: 123 times
The condenser didn't likely blow up due to the refrigerant charge, AC replacement part quality is marginal at best these days and the brand no longer matters in most cases. The condenser could also have been damaged during shipping or during installation. I believe the dealer, your car needs 1000g of refrigerant.soulvoid21 wrote: ↑13 Jul 2023, 14:54 Hi All,
I've been battling with an AC problem with my S60 2.5T AWD for 2 months now.. Car is currently at 180k miles. Have owned the car for 7 years.
To start, the AC has always blown ice cold, every single day, with no issues what so ever. Took the car to my local mechanic to get the AC condenser changed proactively as it was completely smashed in on the bottom from PO hitting rocks/bugs with the car. Not a single fin was straight. Going to be taking the car on a long hot road trip in September (or was the plan..) and didn't want issues with overheating. I've had issues in the past with the trans getting too hot.
Ever since, we cannot get the AC to stop cycling. First condenser blew up when they put 2.2lbs or 1000g in the system. Got a replacement (Thanks FCP!), and so they went down to 1.54lbs or 700g which is what it says on the sticker on the car (says .7kb to be specific). But now, the AC compressor will not run long enough. Cycles on for 1-2 seconds, off for 10 seconds, and just repeat that. Lines coming from the compressor only get cold about 6 inch up the line and is warm from there. Got a replacement compressor as mine was definitely on it's way out anyway, but same issue is happening. Cycling too much and barely running.
We both think it's not enough freon, but he doesn't want to blow up something again. I got lucky with the FCP warranty already, lol. I did call the dealer and they confirmed my VIN is supposed to be 1000g, but wondering if someone else may be able to confirm that. Cap says .7kg and what I saw online says 700g as well. My VIN is YV1RH592172631186
Mechanic has also triple checked for leaks, and is always able to vacuum out the exact amount of freon he puts in, so we're confident it's not leaking anywhere.
Reference to 700g here
https://bads.lt/en/volvo-refrigerant-fi ... an-1234yf/
- soulvoid21
- Posts: 95
- Joined: 6 March 2013
- Year and Model: 2020 S60 T6 AWD
- Location: Berwick, PA
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 1 time
Not sure on the pressure numbers. I can have him check and report back. What are the ideal ranges we're looking for? He's not an AC professional and is very old school, so trying to give him a helping hand since he always helps me. Not sure on interior cabin temp, but I'm sure it's reporting properly as the system worked perfectly fine prior to changing the condenser. Will check though.yanga001 wrote: ↑13 Jul 2023, 19:14 What is the fill pressure, what is the refrigerant in use, what is the interior cabin temperature sensor reading.
How did they blow up a condenser as in what did the damage look like. Was it a true blowout, manufacturing defect, etc. The systems in these cars have a high pressure sensor that when tripped will disable the air conditioning. Furthermore, there is a blower fan on the front that usually goes to max speed if the pressure is too high.
On my 08 S60 2.5T i have noted the following with charges:
When overcharged the radiator fan will engage and sound like a jet engine as it tries to lower the pressure
When undercharged ie near zero you can get a similar effect
Short cycling usually means you have too low refrigerant
Get pressure readings on both ends. The car will report high pressure readings over VIDA/ a good scan tool so you have that much.
These cars will also tell you the evaporator temperature which can be used to help know if you have enough charge (should reach sub 5C).
Hope this helps!
Damage to the condenser was in the lower right corner, we both think it was either defective or damaged in shipping because the crack was at a weld point and it instantly started leaking when they turned the AC on after charging it with 2.2lbs, and yes, they're using the proper type of refrigerant.
Cooling fan does not kick on, which tells me the system is not overcharged.
He does have a good Snap-on scanner that can read all of the live data. I'll ask him to check that or go down myself and take a look. I know him personally and he will let me use the tool myself to get whatever reading we'd need.
- soulvoid21
- Posts: 95
- Joined: 6 March 2013
- Year and Model: 2020 S60 T6 AWD
- Location: Berwick, PA
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 1 time
Thanks, we're thinking it was damaged or a defect as well. Wasn't a Volvo replacement, but aftermarket. It blew out right at the weld point in the lower right corner and the shipping box wasn't in the best shape when I got it.firstv70volvo wrote: ↑14 Jul 2023, 08:23The condenser didn't likely blow up due to the refrigerant charge, AC replacement part quality is marginal at best these days and the brand no longer matters in most cases. The condenser could also have been damaged during shipping or during installation. I believe the dealer, your car needs 1000g of refrigerant.soulvoid21 wrote: ↑13 Jul 2023, 14:54 Hi All,
I've been battling with an AC problem with my S60 2.5T AWD for 2 months now.. Car is currently at 180k miles. Have owned the car for 7 years.
To start, the AC has always blown ice cold, every single day, with no issues what so ever. Took the car to my local mechanic to get the AC condenser changed proactively as it was completely smashed in on the bottom from PO hitting rocks/bugs with the car. Not a single fin was straight. Going to be taking the car on a long hot road trip in September (or was the plan..) and didn't want issues with overheating. I've had issues in the past with the trans getting too hot.
Ever since, we cannot get the AC to stop cycling. First condenser blew up when they put 2.2lbs or 1000g in the system. Got a replacement (Thanks FCP!), and so they went down to 1.54lbs or 700g which is what it says on the sticker on the car (says .7kb to be specific). But now, the AC compressor will not run long enough. Cycles on for 1-2 seconds, off for 10 seconds, and just repeat that. Lines coming from the compressor only get cold about 6 inch up the line and is warm from there. Got a replacement compressor as mine was definitely on it's way out anyway, but same issue is happening. Cycling too much and barely running.
We both think it's not enough freon, but he doesn't want to blow up something again. I got lucky with the FCP warranty already, lol. I did call the dealer and they confirmed my VIN is supposed to be 1000g, but wondering if someone else may be able to confirm that. Cap says .7kg and what I saw online says 700g as well. My VIN is YV1RH592172631186
Mechanic has also triple checked for leaks, and is always able to vacuum out the exact amount of freon he puts in, so we're confident it's not leaking anywhere.
Reference to 700g here
https://bads.lt/en/volvo-refrigerant-fi ... an-1234yf/
-
yanga001
- Posts: 787
- Joined: 24 March 2019
- Year and Model: 98/99/00 v/s70’s
- Location: Ontario
- Has thanked: 59 times
- Been thanked: 110 times
Id fill it till you get cold inside and normal operation resumes. Dont exceed 50psi on the low side was something i heard a while back. The front fan should not engage or stay on if its filled to the correct pressure. Hope it helps
1998 S70 N/A Auto (Parts car)(planned to be harvested)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar
)
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)
1998 V70 N/A Auto New full restoration project (Water pump thrown at 404K Km)
1998 V70 N/A Auto (Workhorse) (Tree to driver B pillar
1999 S70 T5 Auto(Project) (planned to be fixed)
2000 S70 SE M Learning platform (planned to be driven one day)
2008 S60 2.5T Auto (Sold)
2012 Honda Pilot AWD Touring (Daily)
- firstv70volvo
- Posts: 574
- Joined: 6 March 2010
- Year and Model: V70 T5 2001
- Location: Sacramento, CA
- Has thanked: 52 times
- Been thanked: 123 times
That sure sounds like a quality control or shipping damage related problem. After replacing the condenser, vacuuming the system and recharging with 1000g of refrigerant you should be good to go.soulvoid21 wrote: ↑14 Jul 2023, 09:11Thanks, we're thinking it was damaged or a defect as well. Wasn't a Volvo replacement, but aftermarket. It blew out right at the weld point in the lower right corner and the shipping box wasn't in the best shape when I got it.firstv70volvo wrote: ↑14 Jul 2023, 08:23The condenser didn't likely blow up due to the refrigerant charge, AC replacement part quality is marginal at best these days and the brand no longer matters in most cases. The condenser could also have been damaged during shipping or during installation. I believe the dealer, your car needs 1000g of refrigerant.soulvoid21 wrote: ↑13 Jul 2023, 14:54 Hi All,
I've been battling with an AC problem with my S60 2.5T AWD for 2 months now.. Car is currently at 180k miles. Have owned the car for 7 years.
To start, the AC has always blown ice cold, every single day, with no issues what so ever. Took the car to my local mechanic to get the AC condenser changed proactively as it was completely smashed in on the bottom from PO hitting rocks/bugs with the car. Not a single fin was straight. Going to be taking the car on a long hot road trip in September (or was the plan..) and didn't want issues with overheating. I've had issues in the past with the trans getting too hot.
Ever since, we cannot get the AC to stop cycling. First condenser blew up when they put 2.2lbs or 1000g in the system. Got a replacement (Thanks FCP!), and so they went down to 1.54lbs or 700g which is what it says on the sticker on the car (says .7kb to be specific). But now, the AC compressor will not run long enough. Cycles on for 1-2 seconds, off for 10 seconds, and just repeat that. Lines coming from the compressor only get cold about 6 inch up the line and is warm from there. Got a replacement compressor as mine was definitely on it's way out anyway, but same issue is happening. Cycling too much and barely running.
We both think it's not enough freon, but he doesn't want to blow up something again. I got lucky with the FCP warranty already, lol. I did call the dealer and they confirmed my VIN is supposed to be 1000g, but wondering if someone else may be able to confirm that. Cap says .7kg and what I saw online says 700g as well. My VIN is YV1RH592172631186
Mechanic has also triple checked for leaks, and is always able to vacuum out the exact amount of freon he puts in, so we're confident it's not leaking anywhere.
Reference to 700g here
https://bads.lt/en/volvo-refrigerant-fi ... an-1234yf/
- soulvoid21
- Posts: 95
- Joined: 6 March 2013
- Year and Model: 2020 S60 T6 AWD
- Location: Berwick, PA
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 1 time
Update: After having my mechanic try 1kg, we ran into new problems indicating a blockage or bad expansion valve, among other issues. Keep in mind at this point I'm on my 2nd condenser with dryer and a new compressor. AC worked flawlessly for 7 years that I've owned it prior to changing condenser the first time, from regular wear and tear cooling fin damage.
After vacuuming out exactly 700g that was previously done, he tried 700g again. Same problem, short cycling and not cooling but a few inches of the lines. Vacuumed out only 400g this time. Thought maybe there was a leak, added back 1kg this time with leak detector, but now when the compressor engages, it'll stall the engine out or puts so much load on it, that it idles down and stumbles, and barely stays running. Compressor starting making knocking noises once it disengaged. Car runs perfectly fine when AC isn't engaged.
So he vacuumed out the system again to find it had 1300g in it, which would come from what thought to have leaked out earlier. Now he's worried they may have damaged the compressor, which thankfully I can get it replaced with FCP if so.
He spoke with 2 partners who worked in AC, and they're thinking that it's a bad expansion valve or a clog. I ordered a valve as they're cheap enough, but really hoping I don't need an evap.. They're saying the noise would be from too much head pressure on the compressor, and recommended checking the valve as well.
He also plans to run a cleaner through the system, and check for any blockages manually. His son is on vacation though and wont return until next week, and his son does most of the labor for him.
Anything else we should look for/change? Pressures in the system are all over the place as well, nothing is in the "normal" ranges.
After vacuuming out exactly 700g that was previously done, he tried 700g again. Same problem, short cycling and not cooling but a few inches of the lines. Vacuumed out only 400g this time. Thought maybe there was a leak, added back 1kg this time with leak detector, but now when the compressor engages, it'll stall the engine out or puts so much load on it, that it idles down and stumbles, and barely stays running. Compressor starting making knocking noises once it disengaged. Car runs perfectly fine when AC isn't engaged.
So he vacuumed out the system again to find it had 1300g in it, which would come from what thought to have leaked out earlier. Now he's worried they may have damaged the compressor, which thankfully I can get it replaced with FCP if so.
He spoke with 2 partners who worked in AC, and they're thinking that it's a bad expansion valve or a clog. I ordered a valve as they're cheap enough, but really hoping I don't need an evap.. They're saying the noise would be from too much head pressure on the compressor, and recommended checking the valve as well.
He also plans to run a cleaner through the system, and check for any blockages manually. His son is on vacation though and wont return until next week, and his son does most of the labor for him.
Anything else we should look for/change? Pressures in the system are all over the place as well, nothing is in the "normal" ranges.
- firstv70volvo
- Posts: 574
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What makes you think there's a blockage or bad expansion valve? After reading everything else that happened did you actually have a 1kg charge in the system at this point? What were the gauge readings? Were you getting cold or warm air at the vents?soulvoid21 wrote: ↑19 Jul 2023, 18:12 Update: After having my mechanic try 1kg, we ran into new problems indicating a blockage or bad expansion valve, among other issues. ...
You can determine if the expansion valve is bad by the gauge readings and temperature measurements using an infrared thermometer. You can tell if there is blockage the system somewhere else the same way, gauges and temp measurements at different point in the system.
- soulvoid21
- Posts: 95
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- Year and Model: 2020 S60 T6 AWD
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He kept getting odd amounts out of the system repeatedly, which is why they think it’s a blockage of some kind. Possibly the valve. He hasn’t had time to look into it further since they last vacuumed and filled the system. But for the cheap cost of the valve, it was easy to just get and replace just in case.
The original AC system, while working fine, was putting a huge load on the engine with the factory 176k mile system. I understand AC puts a load on engines, but you could feel the compressor engaging as it would cycle, far more than it should have been. I’d even lose and gain speed on the highway. So another reason we think there was an existing blockage or worn valve that worsened when vacuumed.
Again he’s not an AC expert, and doesn’t have much experience working with them. He’s only ever ran into issues with my car, and funny enough another Volvo. Which was taken to another shop specializing in AC, but they’re having issues still too apparently.
The original AC system, while working fine, was putting a huge load on the engine with the factory 176k mile system. I understand AC puts a load on engines, but you could feel the compressor engaging as it would cycle, far more than it should have been. I’d even lose and gain speed on the highway. So another reason we think there was an existing blockage or worn valve that worsened when vacuumed.
Again he’s not an AC expert, and doesn’t have much experience working with them. He’s only ever ran into issues with my car, and funny enough another Volvo. Which was taken to another shop specializing in AC, but they’re having issues still too apparently.
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