Oh so that explains it
Wow, $23, geeze, that's highway robbery, literally
Oh so that explains it
WhatAmIDoing wrote: ↑29 Jul 2023, 22:14 Model year 98 should be exempt as of 2023. And your Volvo was probably built in 1997, so definitely over 25 years old. P80s should be pretty well emissions exempt everywhere by 2024 except for CARB states.
Follow this guide for removing the SAS pump code. A cheap diode and soldering iron is all you need. Really super easy. I should've done it a long time ago.
It appears that a diode (Radio Shack #1N4003) connected between pins A32 and A37 of the ECU will cause the ECU to "think" that the airpump system is fully operational. The only parts of the airpump system you need to LEAVE installed are the airpump relay and the solenoid valve. They both need to have there connectors connected. Everything else can be removed.
Keep: Vacuum solenoid above the fan and the relay up next to the strut tower
Remove: Pump under battery, valve on the exhaust, vacuum lines to and from solenoid, and the hoses.
BUT, if you don't want to bother plugging the hole in the intake box and the exhaust then you can leave the parts and just unplug the pump, and unplug the vacuum line from the tree and cap it. You DO NOT WANT to leave the pump or the vacuum plugged in or it might work half way and show the computer an even higher voltage drop! Also keep in mind if the valve on the exhaust is leaking and the pump was good when you did the mod, it will likely go bad. SO if the pump is useable ebay it!

Hi,Chuck W wrote: ↑02 Aug 2023, 06:37WhatAmIDoing wrote: ↑29 Jul 2023, 22:14 Model year 98 should be exempt as of 2023. And your Volvo was probably built in 1997, so definitely over 25 years old. P80s should be pretty well emissions exempt everywhere by 2024 except for CARB states.
Follow this guide for removing the SAS pump code. A cheap diode and soldering iron is all you need. Really super easy. I should've done it a long time ago.
If the system is incomplete and deactivated, then the SAS delete diode trick would be my plan.
The links on the above guide are broken (VS has some site issues) and the picture shown is way wrong.
It appears that a diode (Radio Shack #1N4003) connected between pins A32 and A37 of the ECU will cause the ECU to "think" that the airpump system is fully operational. The only parts of the airpump system you need to LEAVE installed are the airpump relay and the solenoid valve. They both need to have there connectors connected. Everything else can be removed.
Keep: Vacuum solenoid above the fan and the relay up next to the strut tower
Remove: Pump under battery, valve on the exhaust, vacuum lines to and from solenoid, and the hoses.
BUT, if you don't want to bother plugging the hole in the intake box and the exhaust then you can leave the parts and just unplug the pump, and unplug the vacuum line from the tree and cap it. You DO NOT WANT to leave the pump or the vacuum plugged in or it might work half way and show the computer an even higher voltage drop! Also keep in mind if the valve on the exhaust is leaking and the pump was good when you did the mod, it will likely go bad. SO if the pump is useable ebay it!
We did this mod on my wife's '97 GLT (Before the full M4.4 conversion) to get rid of the P0410 code, as the SAS system in her car never worked.
Mind the pins to attach to and below is the pic of the diode install in her ECU. Note the direction of the diode. The code went away, and stayed away.
After I did the DIY M4.4 ECU, I now just disable the diagnostics for the SAS system in the code, and don't have to worry about any diodes or the like.