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Alternate tranny fluid for 2002 S60?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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vtl
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Re: Alternate tranny fluid for 2002 S60?

Post by vtl »

dikidera wrote: 24 Aug 2023, 13:02 Jesus christ, really? So it's forever contaminated?
Yeah, even if you had it from 0 miles and kept changing ATF frequently, upon disassembly you'll find spots that seem never have gotten any fresh fluid. You still can make it cleaner, after many gallons of fresh fluid, but coolant will stay there pretty much forever.

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02V70
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Post by 02V70 »

If there are spots that never got fresh fluid, then wouldn't that mean the coolant-contaminated fluid never has gotten there? And if there are spots where the coolant is stuck, it shouldn't cause too many problems since it isn't going anywhere right?
2002 v70 X/C 288k miles

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Post by dikidera »

How many gallons do you reckon it would take to clear it.

And what is the consensus on clutch packs/valve body on such occurrences (coolant in atf)?

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Post by 02V70 »

If the transmission is savable, its definitly going to be alot more than 5 liters of drain and fill. I would guess that doing the whole transmission flush two times (4 gallons?) should get most of it out since thats what I did with my engine oil when I blew the head gasket. To save money, it should be fine to use some cheap fluid to flush, then put in the full capacity of the mobil 1 3309 or volvo fluid. For cheap fluid, you can use valvoline maxlife multi vehicle or castrol transmax import multi vehicle. These fluids are technically compatable with the transmission and "meet" the toyota T-IV and 3309, but if it is filled with more than 25-50% of this fluid, you may have shifting problems that can be fixed with the correct fluid.
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Post by 02V70 »

I have an Idea, but have no idea if it will work. When I replaced my radiator, and measured how much transmission fluid came out, some coolant also spilled into my container. I noticed that the coolant sank to the bottom of the clear container, and seperated from the transmission fluid. If you drain your coolant contaminated transmission fluid, and notice the coolant seperating, (maybe let it sit for a day) you could probably reuse the transmission fluid on top for flushes.
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Post by dikidera »

I think the transmission is a different beast than the engine. Almost all of the engine oil is in the sump and it drains almost instantly, all of it. In the transmission, this is not the case. Some of it is in the Torque Converter, some in the sump, some in the valve body etc. I've already drained 5 liters.

I find it frustrating that I cannot get all of the oil out in one go so that less of the new oil mixes with the coolant and do a full flush. Is this only possible with a machine?

Also, yes, oil and water/coolant do separate, but not immediately.
Indeed, oil and water segregate from one another when simply mixed. However, with sufficient input of energy in the form of ultrasound, droplets of oil with sizes less than 1 micron form in pure water and continue to exist for several weeks or months. Curiously when placed in an electric field, the droplets move towards the positive electrode.
As for fluids, I bought Mannol ATF JWS3309, it's the cheapest oil, I would say suitable for flushing. I did a comparison, the oil is thicker than Ravenol JWS3309. The Ravenol oil of which I had 1 quart of, was very thin and drained through the tubing really easily, whilst the Mannol definitely took a longer time.

All in all, I would say the Ravenol might not be the best oil.

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Post by vtl »

dikidera wrote: 25 Aug 2023, 00:18 Is this only possible with a machine?
This is not possible even with a machine, because there's no all-out place in the transmission. Machine will still mix fluids.

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Post by dikidera »

So far the transmission is better, not a whole lot but better than before. I drove it around with a 9l flush, I still have 2l to go. The fluid only became pinker, but not less muddy. The shifting is slightly better than when it was with that junk fluid.

I was advised to reset adaptations but I know from here that it is done only when a physical repair has been done to the gearbox. So I don't plan to do that, unless you guys say so.

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Post by vtl »

Physical repair to that transmission would make total sense :)

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Post by dikidera »

20230825_172108.jpg
20230825_172108.jpg (159.86 KiB) Viewed 350 times
I called a bunch of shops, they dont really want to touch these gearboxes. High cost of repair for these old poor souls. Even I don't agree to $2-3k repair of this transmission. $600 is the tops I would pay.

This is the fluid after 9l drain flush.

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