Alternate tranny fluid for 2002 S60?

[vtl]

I called a bunch of shops, they dont really want to touch these gearboxes. High cost of repair for these old poor souls. Even I don't agree to $2-3k repair of this transmission. $600 is the tops I would pay.

This is the fluid after 9l drain flush.

Do it yourself. A couple of folks here at MVS did it recently, you can get a good guidance.

https://www.oregonperformancetransmissi ... SN-RB.html Steel plates can be reused (depending on their state). Add new bushings. Valve body better get a new one. Plus rebuilt torque converter (absolutely must).

[dikidera]

I've been thinking about it, however I have a different plan. I found a 2005 D5 AW55 for $200. I can use that one to learn and refurbish it(with a rebuild valve body for instance and new clutch packs). Once MY gearbox dies, I can swap them. Cost < $1000...

The downside is, I don't know the condition of the Torque Converter. But those can be refurbished as well, though by specialists.

[vtl]

You can swap your final drive, replace torque converter with rebuilt one, clean filter and it would be good to go. It's not difficult. Meanwhile you can rebuild your transmission.

[dikidera]

In the meantime, I can only say positive things about the Mannol JWS3309. At 7 bucks per liter, it's really a lifesaver. The oil was thicker than Ravenol JWS3309. The gearbox has never shifted AS SMOOTHLY as it does now, but it did take...11 liters for it to shift like that.

Of course this could be temporary and it could start shifting bad again after a couple of hundred miles. The reason is I have experienced this the very first time I ever did a drain and fill on the gearbox. In any case I am happy with the current result, the ride is different, if this is how shifting should be, just wow.

Garage shifts when hot are still bad, they thunk and clunk between Park and drive, though I am wondering if I have somehow damaged the brand new genuine volvo torque mount.

[vtl]

Garage shifts when hot are still bad, they thunk and clunk between Park and drive, though I am wondering if I have somehow damaged the brand new genuine volvo torque mount.

You need to adapt R-N and N-D, it could take a very long time. Also clunks often come from final drive with slack, CV axle splines and, in case of AWD, collar sleeve and prop shaft's front CV.

[Krons]

How many gallons do you reckon it would take to clear it.

And what is the consensus on clutch packs/valve body on such occurrences (coolant in atf)?

Took me 3 gallons to do a cooler return flush and get to clear fluid on a P1 and a P2 front wheel drive. Was on jackstands to shift through the gears part way through to shake as much old fluid loose as possible.

[dikidera]

That's how many I did, definitely was not enough. If I have to be honest, maybe another 3 won't either just from what I observed. Your fluid must have been very clean to begin with.

Just did a 10 mile trip. Shifting is better for sure, and I know it can be better, with a rebuilt transmission of course.

When cold garage shifts are instant and effortless, I can't feel the gear changes at all. When hot they are harsh and kicking.

[Krons]

That's how many I did, definitely was not enough. If I have to be honest, maybe another 3 won't either just from what I observed. Your fluid must have been very clean to begin with.

Just did a 10 mile trip. Shifting is better for sure, and I know it can be better, with a rebuilt transmission of course.

When cold garage shifts are instant and effortless, I can't feel the gear changes at all. When hot they are harsh and kicking.

The fluid on those was pretty dark, brown but not burnt. It was a bit of a gamble as that is usually drain and fill territory. I could have stopped at less than 3 gallons but kept going until the fluid was nice and pink.

Sounds like with heat your valves are sticking a bit causing a rough shift, certainly no guarantee but I’d say a cooler return flush would give a good change to help the shifts smooth out.

[vtl]

Sounds like with heat your valves are sticking a bit causing a rough shift, certainly no guarantee but I’d say a cooler return flush would give a good change to help the shifts smooth out.

It's no different that drain and fill. Valve body diverts only a part of ATF flow to the cooler. Fresh ATF from return line drips into sump where it mixes with the old one. No difference. Perhaps, drain&fill is even more efficient, since it replaces 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid in one pass.

[dikidera]

Yeah I was just about to say the same thing. The only way to clean the solenoids is by removing the transmission sump/cover, however therein lies the problem. I either have to drop the subframe a bit, while simultaneously using a hoist or something to have the engine not drop, or someone somewhere mentioned you could jack up the engine high up(you still have to undo most if not all of the mounts.

Anyway, after driving some more today, I can definitively say the transmission is going back to a bit harsher shifts. I can't say yet for sure. Something basically changes in the properties of the fluid when you drive a bit more with the new fluid(perhaps mixing more with the old one) or the gearbox is continually re-adapting the wrong way!

So yeah if anyone has any guesses why the effect in shift quality is temporary?