How to check transmission fluid level after a flush Topic is solved

[FireFox31]

What's the procedure for setting and checking transmission fluid level after a fluid flush on a 2000 5-speed automatic? I've read "drive 30 minutes then check the dipstick at idle" but I'd like to explore it further. Specifically:
How long after running the engine must you wait to get an accurate cold reading?
Should the transmission be considered cold a few minutes after running only two minutes per flush?

I read that during the flush I should "put back in as much fluid as you took out". I removed slightly more than I put in. Shortly after the flush, I checked the dipstick and it was grossly overfilled, above the "o in "overfill". I then removed 0.4 qt by running the engine for a few seconds with the output line in a cup. The dipstick level dropped so I repeated until I had removed 1.7 qt and the dipstick was at "cold" max.

Was I getting accurate readings shortly after the fluid flushes and fluid drains? Should I have been filling fluid to the hot or cold lines since it was only run for short times?

After a fluid flush, do I have to drive 30 minutes to circulate the new fluid before I'll get an accurate reading? Might that hurt the transmission if it was overfilled (which mine seemed to be)?

Thanks for your input.

[abscate]

The flow rate from the lines is about 2 liters per minute, so the transmission will mix pretty quickly. Once the engine is hot, the radiator will stabilize the temp of the ATF so just use warm dipstick level after 5 minutes of idling.

It is a forgiving transmission got fluid levels, I’ve found, on the four speed, I suspect the 5 is too,

[FireFox31]

"Forgiving" indeed. I may be driving with 1.7 quarts low on transmission fluid. Recently when I first started the car, the transmission failed to engage in any gear. The car had about 5% power, barely moving at 2000 RPM. I turned off the car, turned it back on, and it engaged fine. It happened a second time, the turn off/on trick didn't work, then eventually it did.

I checked the transmission fluid level after driving an hour with the car at idle and the dipstick was bone dry. I shut the car off, checked after five minutes, and got the reading in the picture above; fluid above the word "cold" on the stick. How could the dipstick be dry when running but show a reading shortly after?

[abscate]

Because atf get pumped around , which varies the sump level. There is a procedure for checking the level in the manual which standardizes the level

[chrafael]

I don't know about the five-speed. I've rebuilt a lot of transmissions including the 50-42 and what you are describing sounds like the generic symptoms of torque converter leak down. Some causes are worn bushings, or stuck checkball or checkvalve in the valvebody. When the car is running, the fluid refills the torque converter and shows low on the stick. When the motor stops the fluid returns to the sump and shows overfill. No easy fix. Go by the running mark, ignore what you see at rest. If this just started when you did the drain and change you might get lucky and it will unstick on its own. Good luck!

[MoVolvos]

.
If you do a flush and add in about the same you took out, do not check the fluid till you've row the gears and then driven it for 30 minutes. Checking cold means in the morning cold. Regardless, whether hot or cold check the car must be running.
.

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[foggydogg]

Automatic fluid levels are checked with the engine running, selector in park or neutral. There will be a slight change between ambient and normal operating temperature, but I've never seen much difference between idling for 5-10 minutes and driving around for a bit.
Transmissions that have been on the workbench and are bone dry take a few minutes to circulate fluid through all the clutch packs and servos, but doing the hose-off-drain-and-fill method doesn't have that issue.
As mentioned two posts above, checking the stick engine off isn't a good measure for proper level.

[scot850]

I found trying to test the level when cold the oil tended to cling to the dipstick higher up, which it did much less so when warm. With the turbo engines and 5 speed auto in the 'R' I got the dealer to check it as it get really warm down there and the turbo pipes make it a swine to get to without burning your hand in the process. Why they could not have put a longer dipstick tube on I have no idea.

Neil.

[FireFox31]

I see my mistake now: After the flush, I did the checks with the car off hoping to keep it "cold" since it wasn't "driven 30 minutes hot". Next time, I won't fear overfilling when I put back as much as I took out, drive it 30 mins, then check while running.

My fluid level may have been even lower than 1.7 quarts. I found a leak at the valve body top return fluid line which I replaced. I tightened the nut a bit but it's already really tight so I don't want to break anything. It may also be leaking at the dipstick which doesn't fully insert in the tube (I'll try replacing the tube and stick).

The fluid in the transmission looks very dark now even though it's only 3 months and 5.5k miles old. Driving with more than 1.7 quarts low, and that serious lack of power problem, may have hurt it. I'm planning to do another 8 quart flush, then obsessively check the fluid level. Then a flush on my other 2000 V70 automatic, which is why I want to get this process right. Thanks.