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Is 12.2V good enough to keep a car battery?

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matthew1
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Is 12.2V good enough to keep a car battery?

Post by matthew1 »

I have a battery that after days of trickle charging shows 12.2V, just by itself across the terminals. Is that good enough to keep it around as a 40-pound-liability-that-maybe-maybe-I'll-use-one-day paperweight?
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Post by MoVolvos »

matthew1 wrote: 23 Nov 2023, 09:09 I have a battery that after days of trickle charging shows 12.2V, just by itself across the terminals. Is that good enough to keep it around as a 40-pound-liability-that-maybe-maybe-I'll-use-one-day paperweight?
Won't be good enough for the car but good enough as a test bed if needed for 12V items.
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Post by abscate »

Good excuse to buy that charger with sulphate mode that you should own when the following mathematical expression becomes true

Nc > Nd

Recent experience. The 10 year old battery in the P2 was still working but I replaced it before winter. It charged to 12.5 volts, car was started and driven weekly

It sat in the garage for two weeks, went dead, then would not accept a charge without a horrible rotten egg smell

Get rid of it, a small lawnmower battery is great for testing
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Post by volvolugnut »

My recent battery experience. I had a smaller battery that was getting swapped around as needed. I did not have it fully charged and had a no start on big V8 truck. This happened by chance in the Autozone parking lot. I bought a new battery and paid $22 for the core charge. I did not want to give up the smaller battery because I knew it would still take a good charge.
The next week I delivered a different small battery and got back my $22. I asked Autozone if I could get $22 for any old battery I would bring. No, but they would pay $10 for an extra battery.
The old battery was recharged and is now happy in my 1987 Volvo 244.
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Post by abscate »

You will find they don’t like to sit. If you have a trickle charger leave it hooked up. If you get a basic trickle charger, you can use it for 12V testing , though.
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