What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[scot850]

A fuel cleaner may also help. It could be a build up of carbon on the valve stem in that cylinder caused by a leaky fuel injector or more likely a failing valve stem seal. This will eventually lead to a burnt valve. I would suggest if you can get access to a boroscope and check the low cylinder and valves for damage.

Neil.

[RedBrickCollector]

Huh

I have both fuel system cleaner I planned to put in next tank, and something close enough to a boroscope. What's the proper way to use it to check the valves on these things? Will going through the spark plug hole work or is it a case of turning it over by hand and going through the manifold?

[foggydogg]

Huh

I have both fuel system cleaner I planned to put in next tank, and something close enough to a boroscope. What's the proper way to use it to check the valves on these things? Will going through the spark plug hole work or is it a case of turning it over by hand and going through the manifold?

'Scoping it through the plug hole will let you see piston tops and cylinder walls, but won't tell you much about valve faces or seats. When the intake was off, you could've seen a little of the intake stuff, but most valve issues on P80s seem to be on the exhaust side. Some folks have luck putting some Seafoam through a vacuum port, but use a light hand on that technique. (The secret ingredient in that stuff is reported to be odorless kerosene.)
Robert Spinner, posting here as rspi and on YouTube as RobertDIY, refuses to replace oil cooler hoses. He took them off his own T5R years ago, and that car now has over 425k on the original bottom end. The delete plate is still available in the States from dealers (in case the location in your sig is true), and all the N/A cars had them, in case a junkyard stroll is in your plan.

[scot850]

Modern boroscopes can angle up to see the valve. Older ones could not. I have one that does.

Well made a milestone today. Finished cataloguing the first set of 47 bins. Second set is barely (thankfully) half full. Also they are much newer parts I know should all be cleaned already. Bins are also cleaner and newer so again hopefully quicker to clean. Labelling the bins is what takes a chunk of time.

Once that is done, then the R can be moved into the old garage and covered for the winter. The remaining bins can be accessed without having to get down the side of the car. Once those are done I know there are still a couple of boxes (24" x 24" x 12") full of smaller parts still to be sorted and catalogued after that. Progress but slow!

Neil.

[RedBrickCollector]

Huh

I have both fuel system cleaner I planned to put in next tank, and something close enough to a boroscope. What's the proper way to use it to check the valves on these things? Will going through the spark plug hole work or is it a case of turning it over by hand and going through the manifold?

'Scoping it through the plug hole will let you see piston tops and cylinder walls, but won't tell you much about valve faces or seats. When the intake was off, you could've seen a little of the intake stuff, but most valve issues on P80s seem to be on the exhaust side. Some folks have luck putting some Seafoam through a vacuum port, but use a light hand on that technique. (The secret ingredient in that stuff is reported to be odorless kerosene.)
Robert Spinner, posting here as rspi and on YouTube as RobertDIY, refuses to replace oil cooler hoses. He took them off his own T5R years ago, and that car now has over 425k on the original bottom end. The delete plate is still available in the States from dealers (in case the location in your sig is true), and all the N/A cars had them, in case a junkyard stroll is in your plan.

Took a look at the ports and valves, nothing to note though it isn't like I turned the engine over to inspect the valve seals.

I have an old style one that comes with a mirror, I can see if I can get it through the top but it isn't a pressing issue for me currently.

Instead, today I did the driver's side door strap and centered the steering wheel. Looks like there was a previous alignment mark that wasn't followed.

Can't wait for the cap/plug to delete the oil cooler to arrive so that I can actually drive the car a decent distance. Whatever it was that caused the oil cooler hose to leak, it's related to doing the PCV job, either the pressures changed or just the rubber getting rubbed the wrong way by the manifold.

Also, is it normal to be able to hear the fuel pump whining away when standing behind the car?

[foggydogg]

Did a compression test today and not quite sure how to feel about it.

#3 however was at about 130-135, only a marginal increase wet
Addressing an oil cooler hose leak (cooler delete?)
Dropping the oil pan to clear the bottom PCV channel.
Fixing A/C Compressor rapid on/off (magnetic clutch re-shim?)

Still really happy I got one of these while I still can, and I'm looking forward to keeping it for life.

Since the number didn't increase wet, that does usually means one of the valve seat interfaces is unhappy; I'm with you, I wouldn't be too concerned. As mentioned, feeding a few ounces of Seafoam through a vacuum port might clean things up a bit.
All my cooler line leaks have been at the hose/ferrule crimp connection. Delete plate cure for all but one of my Rs, (1366791).
It's used on lots of cars '94-'04, if you're able to do the junkyard tour.
Robert simply abandons them in place, although sometimes he takes the thermostat housing off and just leaves the hoses.
If you're buying hoses, please avoid aftermarket, the job is such a PITA use Blue Box Volvo, (3528207, 3528201). FCP has the kit with hardware bits that adds $15, https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... lerhosekit
If the A/C compressor is rapid cycling that's usually low gas pressure, although checking the air gap on the clutch isn't a bad idea anyway. I don't remember the number exactly, .008-.012" maybe? Breadclips or zip ties are the preferred home remedy method, getting the pulley off for reshimming is a Proper Odyssey.

[foggydogg]

Can't wait for the cap/plug to delete the oil cooler to arrive so that I can actually drive the car a decent distance. Whatever it was that caused the oil cooler hose to leak, it's related to doing the PCV job, either the pressures changed or just the rubber getting rubbed the wrong way by the manifold.

Also, is it normal to be able to hear the fuel pump whining away when standing behind the car?

Oops, looks like you have a plate on the way. Nice fresh Torx bit for that job, they shouldn't be almighty tight, but may be age stuck.
Fuel pump whine is usually an amber warning, although some aftermarket pumps are noisy out of the box. Both Robert and Dr. Abscate have been there. If you get curious, pull the cover plate and see if it seems to have the original pump.
And welcome to our little club.

[454cid]

So a few times I've removed the oil filler cap on my 99 S70, I've thought that I ought to change the gasket. I forget by the time I'm ordering parts for other things. Reviewing my ebay purchases, it looks like I ordered two when I replaced the gasket on my 850, so I'd have a spare... a spare that I haven't seen even when I've been digging through Volvo parts. I can only imagine Neil's predicament.

[abscate]

So a few times I've removed the oil filler cap on my 99 S70, I've thought that I ought to change the gasket. I forget by the time I'm ordering parts for other things. Reviewing my ebay purchases, it looks like I ordered two when I replaced the gasket on my 850, so I'd have a spare... a spare that I haven't seen even when I've been digging through Volvo parts. I can only imagine Neil's predicament.

Another perfect stocking stuffer to hit the $49.99 threshold for free ground shipping at FCP

Oil cap gaskets
Brake bleeder screws
Brake bleeder caps
Cu spark plugs
Wheel hub sealing rings
Gas flap locking tang

[Blacklab467]

Don't forger to also get a gas cap o-ring/ gasket!