What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[bmdubya1198]

Alright, ordered a cable, I'll give it a shot. Does it need to run in an XP virtual machine or is it worth trying comppatibility modes first?

New issue with the car though. Under hard acceleration, the coolant level light comes on, then goes away quickly after. Are these sensors known to fail? There's some gurgling while it's running but I assumed this is just in need of a new cap or similar, possibly related.

A small part of my brain worries about a bad head gasket, as my 3rd cylinder reads around 130psi both dry and wet and I'm concerned that this may be the cause.

You should have no problem running it in compatibility mode. I ran it on Windows 10 no problem.

[foggydogg]

If only I could find a section dedicated to the problems / replacement of the throttle cable, like there is for the ETM.
But seriously, based on the couple of YouTubes I've watched on removal of the cable at the firewall, there doesn't look to be a "clean" way to get it out of there. Cut and mangle seems to be the approved procedure.

Lots of stuff in the way, Robert makes it look easy

[Sveedy]

^ That was the first video I watched. But I don't want to cut up the interior insulation.
But I think I have a plan at this point. If it works, I'll share it. If not, I'll pretend it never happened.

[scot850]

Neil.

[yanga001]

Had a volvo day.

Went up to the ranch to test out the parts cars. Got the silver one running well and its transmission seemed to be perfect as compared to my previous p80's. Needed to swap out the old throttle assembly and will try to rebuild the seized one. The 2000 s70 developed an exhaust leak but starts true and strong. The power steering rack on it seems to have a leak and was empty.

The 99 T5 seems to have a bad fuel pump (changed the relay, no pressure at the rail) however it did crank well so i had that going for me.

The T5 also has a rack leak so i cannot use the 2000 as a donor. Maybe i could rebuild the old rack.

Day ended with a friend calling me to tell me that they swiped a 06 XC70 and ill try to pop out the caved in front bumper cover. Worst case ill change the cover with a parts one for them.

The days seem to grow longer and longer

[brunocerous]

Tried charging the T5’s battery overnight, and the voltage still didn’t rise above 13V. Guess it’s time for a new one.

Thinking about getting an HFT air compressor, possibly a pancake type. Any cons I should know about?

[ZionXIX]

Thinking about getting an HFT air compressor, possibly a pancake type. Any cons I should know about?

Get the warranty. No hassle exchange if it breaks. I've had one of the 4 gallon cylinder style ones from there for 3 years now. I've had zero issues. ive an framing nailers, various air tools and aired up lots of tires.

[850 LPT]

Bypassed the clutch switch to see if I can wake up Matilda the S70, but no luck. The other day I made up a cable so I can crank the engine directly from the battery. I did so for just a few seconds. The car has been sitting since March and I am getting worried about seals, mainly the rear main

[bmdubya1198]

Tried charging the T5’s battery overnight, and the voltage still didn’t rise above 13V. Guess it’s time for a new one.

Thinking about getting an HFT air compressor, possibly a pancake type. Any cons I should know about?

I have an older 3 gallon pancake compressor at home that's been good. Had it for probably 6-7 years, my dad had used it for work for nail guns and small stuff for a while. I've had to fix the line inside probably twice since it stopped filling (second time it had blown off completely, had to re-flare it) but it still works perfectly. The newer models are improved, but definitely get the warranty too. You can extend it to 2 years for probably $20-$30, and it's a matter of walk in and swap out no questions asked.

I'd recommend springing for the Fortress brand compressors. They're insanely quiet and fill pretty fast.

[RedBrickCollector]

Hit a particularly long patch of bumpy road today and the noise from the rear suspension has me thinking I should change the mounts and bushings at least, then maybe look into the struts.

Are these the parts I'd need, let me know if I missed anything or need to add anything.

Shock Mount - 9461524 x2
Trailing Arm Bushing - 3530202 (L), 9181027 (R)
Mounting Bolt - 977509 x2
Trailing Arm Link - 3516122 x2
Bump Stop - 3516327 x2

The noise from the loose tailgate panel is another thing I'm also doing today with the help of some ABS sheet and 3D printed parts. It's gonna be a bit of a process, let's see how it goes.