Stalling when coming to a stop, need help

[FireFox31]

You should check it. Mine until two almost failed completely did not throw a code. Have her remove the cover and pull the wire and start. If the roughness does not change it's that coil.

Brilliant, I had not thought of that. Is she disconnecting the electrical connector for the coil or fuel injector (asking due to a conflicting comment on FCP)? If it's a coil, I will order a new one and have her install it.

I had her disconnect the MAF power cable as a test. The car would start but immediately die. Looks like I can't test that.

What's the inner diameter and suitable material for the MAP vacuum hose? What's a good place to easily order these vacuum lines? I don't really want to pay $50 to Volvo just for the MAP hose.

Thank you for your help. I'm stuck out of state caring for a seriously ill family member and barely have time for this. Meanwhile my girlfriend needs this car, currently renting one that I'm paying for because mine failed her. And due to the holiday, I can't tow the car to a shop for repair. That's why I'm asking such basic questions, so I really appreciate the help.

[volvolugnut]

I do not know the hose size, but have a possible solution.
Can GF locate the MAP hose and remove all or a portion?

CAN SOME OTHER MVS HELPER SUPPLY PHOTOS OF HOSE LOCATION for this model?

Then GF take as a sample to a well stocked automotive store to buy suitable sized vacuum hose?
Then install replacement hose.
volvolugnut

[FireFox31]

Thanks for the great idea. Again, I totally missed it. I helped her find the MAP sensor and hose. Problem is, the hose on there is not original, it's braided, and probably not a correct match in other ways. It's not a great template to use but it could work.

I've just ordered her a bunch of automotive tools for Christmas. So boring, but so useful. A nice vintage USA Craftsman metric 1/4 ratchet set is on its way to her now.

[MoVolvos]

You should check it. Mine until two almost failed completely did not throw a code. Have her remove the cover and pull the wire and start. If the roughness does not change it's that coil.

Brilliant, I had not thought of that. Is she disconnecting the electrical connector for the coil or fuel injector (asking due to a conflicting comment on FCP)? If it's a coil, I will order a new one and have her install it.

I had her disconnect the MAF power cable as a test. The car would start but immediately die. Looks like I can't test that.

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I believe the car is suppose to stall when you pull the wire from the MAF.
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Pull the wire on the coil not injector.

(www.amazon.com/Bosch-00117-0221604008-I ... B0067UDR2K)

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Coil.png (1.23 MiB) Viewed 368 times

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[volvolugnut]

I think GF is a keeper. Practical and patient.
Good luck with everything.
volvolugnut

[FireFox31]

You should check it. Mine until two almost failed completely did not throw a code. Have her remove the cover and pull the wire and start. If the roughness does not change it's that coil.

When your two coils were almost failed, was the car threatening to stall when coming to a stop and running rough at lower speeds?

I had her check coils 3-5 today. 1-2 were under the belt cover and she doesn't (yet) have a Torx socket to remove it. Coils 4 (Volvo 1999) and 5 (Denso?) are suspect for not changing the idle while coil 3 (Volvo 2005) made idle worse so is likely good. Coil 2 is also Volvo 1999 and I think coil 1 is as well. I'll buy five coils to ensure she doesn't have this problem again. I believe abscate said "The women get new coils, he'll take used but good and keep spares."

How can we test a coil for marginal performance? Could VIDA show any numerical or graphic data?

I'm throwing in a CRP N203571 11.0mm OD X 7.0m ID braided vacuum line. She measured the OD of the MAP line at ~7/16" which is about 11 mm, so I'll swap this if the coils don't help.

[MoVolvos]

You should check it. Mine until two almost failed completely did not throw a code. Have her remove the cover and pull the wire and start. If the roughness does not change it's that coil.

When your two coils were almost failed, was the car threatening to stall when coming to a stop and running rough at lower speeds?

I had her check coils 3-5 today. 1-2 were under the belt cover and she doesn't (yet) have a Torx socket to remove it. Coils 4 (Volvo 1999) and 5 (Denso?) are suspect for not changing the idle while coil 3 (Volvo 2005) made idle worse so is likely good. Coil 2 is also Volvo 1999 and I think coil 1 is as well. I'll buy five coils to ensure she doesn't have this problem again. I believe abscate said "The women get new coils, he'll take used but good and keep spares."

How can we test a coil for marginal performance? Could VIDA show any numerical or graphic data?

I'm throwing in a CRP N203571 11.0mm OD X 7.0m ID braided vacuum line. She measured the OD of the MAP line at ~7/16" which is about 11 mm, so I'll swap this if the coils don't help.

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"When your two coils were almost failed, was the car threatening to stall when coming to a stop and running rough at lower speeds?" Described exactly!

"Coils 4 (Volvo 1999) and 5 (Denso?) are suspect for not changing the idle" Most likely dead!
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[volvolugnut]

How can we test a coil for marginal performance? Could VIDA show any numerical or graphic data?

Haynes manual for Volvo V70 2000 to 2007 reports primary and secondary coil resistance are "Not available".

volvolugnut

[abscate]

I’ve made measurements on good and bad coils and never got a good diagnostic read on telling good from bad or ugly.

I had a real nut buster on Elizabeth once, a coil that was iffy and a iffy spark plug that had me head scratching for an hour. Wizechatmgr figured that one out. Whenever a group of men work a problem , you have to figure out who has the brain that day. Women don’t seem to suffer from this, the brains interconnect like the Borg.

[MrAl]

Not fuel delivery, I can send a fuel relay but that’s pretty sparse chance.

Vacuum leak is more likely, I think Geronimo is an NA? Throttle body is another candidate but usually the ETS light will warmly glow.

1999-2000 have to have a solid good 12.5 volt at rest battery or they will get snarly. The Silver Kat just reminded me of this with a start , stall, long crank, then a couple of spurious ETC codes , a fuel gauge which read inaccurately......all cured by a new battery

Hi Steve,

That's interesting I had long suspected that with my 1998 v70 NA.
The problem I saw was that the voltage regulator (or associated system) did not let the battery charge when the engine first starts, it takes about 3 seconds to start to charge. Since the battery voltage is lower immediately after a cold start, the battery voltage stays that low for maybe 3 seconds. During that time the engine may stall again.
I was in an intersection one time and came to a stop to make a left turn and had to wait for oncoming traffic to pass by first. The car stalled, right dang in the middle of the intersection. The check engine light came on. I was lucky it started up again and I drove down the side street and let it idle high with my foot on the gas pedal. Once it ran at high idle for a minute or two, it was OK.
I've always hated the charging system on that car, always.