Any new news here?
I was just thinking - I don’t see how someone could jamb a larger diameter bolt all the way through that pipe. If the correct one isn’t tight to the inner diameter, you’d have clunking in the front end. I’ll bet it’s rusted in there.
'72 145s - Lower control arm shaft removal/replacement
If I remember replacing my bushings correctly (40 years ago?), the steel collars on the ID of the bushings were rusted to the bolts. The ends of the bolts may also be rusted into the crossmember. Get the bushing off the nut end of the bolt, I'm pretty sure I used an oxy/fuel torch. Thin, rusty bushing sleeves pretty much fall off once the bushing material is burned out of the way. After the bushing (and its sleeve) under the nut is gone, spin the nut back on to pound on and use a big hammer like volvolugnut suggested. You might need more nuts.
If it doesn't start to move, apply heat to the bolt and the end of the tube in the crossmember. You'll probably end up using the torch on both ends of the bolt and the crossmember tube to get it free. You need more heat than a propane torch can muster. You want to get them (dull) red in order to burn off the oxide. Check it for freedom of movement by turning it with a wrench. Drive it out while everything is still hot. There probably isn't much rust in there but it doesn't take much.
As for the metric sized bolt and nut, it's probably an inexpensive offshore aftermarket replacement part. You might be able to reuse them but an unrusted replacement is your best bet. I recommend lubing the new bolt, bushing bores, and the crossmember bore with Wurth copper anti-seize. It's not cheap but it works really good and holds up a lot better than the aluminum based stuff. Do not get any on the threads, it throws off the torque. Remember to torque the control arm fasteners with the weight on the wheels.
If it doesn't start to move, apply heat to the bolt and the end of the tube in the crossmember. You'll probably end up using the torch on both ends of the bolt and the crossmember tube to get it free. You need more heat than a propane torch can muster. You want to get them (dull) red in order to burn off the oxide. Check it for freedom of movement by turning it with a wrench. Drive it out while everything is still hot. There probably isn't much rust in there but it doesn't take much.
As for the metric sized bolt and nut, it's probably an inexpensive offshore aftermarket replacement part. You might be able to reuse them but an unrusted replacement is your best bet. I recommend lubing the new bolt, bushing bores, and the crossmember bore with Wurth copper anti-seize. It's not cheap but it works really good and holds up a lot better than the aluminum based stuff. Do not get any on the threads, it throws off the torque. Remember to torque the control arm fasteners with the weight on the wheels.
Sorry, I missed the second page prior to posting above.
The serrated ends on the bushing sleeves are to lock them to the crossmember. The idea is that the bushing rubber is what flexes to allow movement. That's why it's important that the car is sitting on the wheels when the control arm fasteners are tightened.
Do they still have the "radial tire" (offset) upper arm bushings available?
The serrated ends on the bushing sleeves are to lock them to the crossmember. The idea is that the bushing rubber is what flexes to allow movement. That's why it's important that the car is sitting on the wheels when the control arm fasteners are tightened.
Do they still have the "radial tire" (offset) upper arm bushings available?
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