'07 XC90 3.2 Radiator Replacement Questions

[jerryv]

Hi gang

Im fixing to (finally) replace the leaky radiator and some associated lower hoses on my 2007 3.2L. Got the parts and have some general questions before I open this wormcan....

-I have found some okay tutorials and videos on the subject but they're for diesel or turbo variants, not the 3.2 which seems like it might be somewhat different without an intercooler in the mix?

-Saw some mentions that the rad can be removed from above?? Anybody?

-To remove from below, how high do I need to lift the car? Will typical 6" drive-on lifts work? Jack stands?

-Any other insights/wisdom/tips/tricks/other things to address while Im up in there welcome.

Happy new year!

[chitownV]

My suggestion is to make room for this work. You don’t want to damage any existing or new parts and fins.

If I were to do this, I would plan to remove the intake manifold and electric fan. This will give much more room to see the brackets, change hard to reach hoses, and inspect/clean the engine better.

If you have close to 200k miles, or more, then you certainly want to change the 3 hoses that connect from the thermostat > lower crossover (has plastic that can crack with age) > hose that connects to the metal crossover pipe & lower radiator hose.

You can Google posts and videos for the intake manifold removal plus these coolant hoses replacement.

One last note, if you remove the coolant fan, cover the harness connector with a latex glove or similar. The fan uses a lot of power and you don’t want that open connector accidentally live without some kind of insulation.

[dikidera]

Righto, my alley IF it's the same as S60/V70 P2 NA. I have worked around the P2 radators three times now and have gotten the hang of it. Your biggest enemy is the AC metal pipe it will prevent you from easily placing the radiator in the proper position as it catches on the radiator mounts, which is why it is imperative that once you have it aligned alright to prop the radiator from falling from the opposite side and having to then redo it all over again.

But before that there is a spacer between AC radiator and your engine radiator, this spacer is a pain in the ass as it doesn't stay in one place, luckily the solution is simple, zip tie the spacer to the new radiator through the bolt holes(all 4 of them) BEFORE you install the radiator. Zip ties should be small so that once you insert the bolts that hold the whole thing together, they can still fit. Afterwards the zip ties can stay in there and they will not do any harm.
Make sure to note the proper orientation of the spacer so that in the end you manage to install the small return hose to the top part of the radiator.

If the 3.2 and the XC90 is in any way similar to the S60/V70 p2 naturally aspirated 2.4i then you don't need to remove the intake manifold at all, just loosen the steering pump hose from the dipstick bracket and move it up to lay on the bracket itself, so it doesn't catch on the radiator.

[jerryv]

I completed the radiator and lower hose replacements. Tedious and time consuming, but not particularly difficult.

Following up with some answers to my questions for the cause.

-6" steel ramps provided plenty of height to get the radiator in and out from below.

-Good opportunity to access/replace the front vacuum engine mount and in my case repair a leak in the windshield washer reservoir.

-My alternator and all coolant hoses shat out around 150k miles/15 years. In retrospect, I should have replaced lower hoses 30774512, 30774513, 30774514 and alternator in one go while the intake was removed. Instead I had to do the whole intake song and dance twice.

-NOTE: The #30774513 ÜRO hose I ordered shares the same Volvo part number but lacks the (permanently attached) top plastic T fitting, which dosent make much sense!

[jerryv]

One more bit of wisdom:
Pay special attention to the drivers-> passenger hood release cable routing. I pushed out the 2 plastic fixing tabs during the radiator swap (pretty sure this wasn't necessary) and managed to break my hood release functionality in the process. I fixed it by (re)straightening the housing routing into the passenger side latch, which had gotten bent funny. Hard to explain.

Hood release breaking post AC condenser, intercooler, or radiator replacement work = likely from this.

[ggleavitt]

I did EXACTLY the same thing on the passenger side cable run when I was replacing a noisy engine cooling fan in the Ocean Race (V8) a couple months ago.

Crawled up under with a long screwdriver to get the latch to release, took the fan back out, re-routed the cable, put the fan back in. Half hour of my life I'll never get back.

[chitownV]

-Good opportunity to access/replace the front vacuum engine mount and in my case repair a leak in the windshield washer reservoir.

-My alternator and all coolant hoses shat out around 150k miles/15 years. In retrospect, I should have replaced lower hoses 30774512, 30774513, 30774514 and alternator in one go while the intake was removed. Instead I had to do the whole intake song and dance twice.

-NOTE: The #30774513 ÜRO hose I ordered shares the same Volvo part number but lacks the (permanently attached) top plastic T fitting, which dosent make much sense!

You have a vacuum front engine mount? It’s connected to a vacuum line?

I would never use URO hoses or their other rubber parts. The URO equivalent 30774513 part shows it doesn’t come with the Y-splitter fitting at AutohausAZ. I get the cooling system parts from FCP and have already used the lifetime replacement guarantee for the radiator hoses, water pump, and serpentine system, saving a lot of money.

[jerryv]

-Good opportunity to access/replace the front vacuum engine mount and in my case repair a leak in the windshield washer reservoir.

-My alternator and all coolant hoses shat out around 150k miles/15 years. In retrospect, I should have replaced lower hoses 30774512, 30774513, 30774514 and alternator in one go while the intake was removed. Instead I had to do the whole intake song and dance twice.

-NOTE: The #30774513 ÜRO hose I ordered shares the same Volvo part number but lacks the (permanently attached) top plastic T fitting, which dosent make much sense!

You have a vacuum front engine mount? It’s connected to a vacuum line?

I would never use URO hoses or their other rubber parts. The URO equivalent 30774513 part shows it doesn’t come with the Y-splitter fitting at AutohausAZ. I get the cooling system parts from FCP and have already used the lifetime replacement guarantee for the radiator hoses, water pump, and serpentine system, saving a lot of money.

Ive heard them call vaccum mounts that for some reason which confuses me as well. No connection that Im aware of. The big round squishy lookin one. PN 30778953 Theres a similar one on the backside.

[jerryv]

I did EXACTLY the same thing on the passenger side cable run when I was replacing a noisy engine cooling fan in the Ocean Race (V8) a couple months ago.

Crawled up under with a long screwdriver to get the latch to release, took the fan back out, re-routed the cable, put the fan back in. Half hour of my life I'll never get back.

Only half an hour? Not bad!

[chitownV]

Ive heard them call vaccum mounts that for some reason which confuses me as well. No connection that Im aware of. The big round squishy lookin one. PN 30778953 Theres a similar one on the backside.

You might be confusing hydraulic (oil filled) engine mounts versus vacuum, which the D5 and certain types of engines from different manufacturers have. The vacuum ones would have a vacuum tube connected. The hydraulic ones can leak its oil and you might see a stain on the metal below it wondering where that came from. The oil is to help isolate the vibrations.

You can just say engine mount.