1998 Volvo V70 cranks, spark no start Topic is solved

[scot850]

It could be a few other options:

1) The PnP switch if it is an automatic. Try putting the key in the ignition, foot on the brake, and push down on the button to the right of the auto gearshift to release the park lock. Try rowing the gear lever fully back and forward 15-20 times and try the ignition again. Also, I'm not sure if I recall the cars can be started in N. My memory my be wrong on that.

2) A worn out ignition switch electrical portion. Try wiggling the key in the ignition and trying then to see if it will start.

3) Immobiliser - These can cause issues, but mostly when battery is removed and re-attached. Locking and un-locking the driver's door a few times with the key in the door lock should re-set that. I don't recall it cutting off the fuel, but I recall it cuts the starter.

4) MAF - Did you try starting without the may connected? Remove the connector and see if it will start without it. Test purposes only. Sorry this makes Abscate wince. If there is no difference then the MAF is likely fine.

5) Injector relay? - I think your car has one above the radiator. The wiring connectors on those are known to go bad. Check the connectors very carefully as well as the wires to it.

May not be either of these, but it will help narrow down potential issues.

Neil.

[Edgar21]

1. Its a manual, though the neutral safety switch doesn't appear to be working (tried to start it in reverse the other day and found that out)

2. The electrical portion is on the left side of the column? I had it apart earlier and gave it a few wiggles with no change, I have also tried with the spare key in case its the chip. I'll try some more vigorous wiggling

3. I tried the lock/unlock 5-10 times with key in the drivers door after putting in the battery, no change

4. Have tried both with and without MAF many times

5. I believe the injector relay has been moved to the fuse box, called main engine relay on the diagram in my vehicle, I've looked for the one shown in 850 videos but just the fan relay is there. Can the main engine relay be jumped? I replaced it but maybe its still the sticking point somehow

Thanks to everyone offering input so far!

[scot850]

The electrical portion of the ignition is hard to diagnose as it has contact pins that wear internally. If this is a go/no-go situation where it had been good up until it wasn't, I would suggest it is not the ignition key.

If your car is an import it may have a chipped key. If it is not, then you won't have the antenna ring around the ignition key where you insert the key to start the car.

Thanks for giving more info on what you have tried, and especially that the car is a manual. I was not sure if the injector relay had been moved on the 98 as it is mostly the same as an 850. 99- had a lot of changes.

Check the relay part number. There are some relays that are the same part number or even different part numbers in the cars. There may be an alternate that may at least give you the chance to swap another in to test for voltage on the injectors. I have a bunch of different relays, but not sure if all are relevant to your year.

I have # 9494448 in the main 'kidney shaped main fuse box, alt # 9128164

There is I believe a matching one in the other fuse box in the rear section.

AS to which pins to jumper, I am not a wiring guy, so hopefully someone that is can tell you which pins to jumper.

Neil.

[Edgar21]

It has been having random stalls (at idle, cruising at 50, etc) more and more often building up to this, but no starting issues until now. The first post on the thread has some more detail as to the buildup. I believe I had a bad fuel pump as well which may have been responsible for the stalling.

I do have the keyring antenna on the ignition, would that mean this might be an immobilizer issue? I have one on order to try out.

I'll futz around with the relays some more tomorrow and update with anything new

[Edgar21]

Would it be possible that a bad ground for the ecu could cause issues with the injectors? Ill admit im a little fuzzy on how the injectors are controlled but ive seen some stuff about ground pulses

[foggydogg]

Injectors fire on the ground side from the ECU.
You seem to have eliminated ignition side issues, maybe Dr. Abscate can show you what crank sensor pulses are supposed to look like.
Once you've dug out.

[Edgar21]

Ended up figuring out it was a loose connector near the battery, see pic. Also see this related forum post that clued me into it.

Post viewtopic.php?t=50639

image

[foggydogg]

1. Its a manual, though the neutral safety switch doesn't appear to be working (tried to start it in reverse the other day and found that out)

If the starter motor engaged and moved the car with it in gear, the switch on the clutch pedal is an issue.
Glad you got the other problem sorted.

[abscate]

Ive seen lots of 1998s without clutch switches, it came in 100% in 1999 with ME7.

[foggydogg]

Ive seen lots of 1998s without clutch switches, it came in 100% in 1999 with ME7.

All US market cars built after 8/86 were required to have a clutch safety switch.