What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[RedBrickCollector]

Post a picture of the clips on the seat. It may be they have been fitted in reverse.

Neil.

Here's what it looks like, I can pull the bottoms out either up or down.

In other news I had tint done today, casualties include the adhesive for the tailgate trim so that's back to the drawing board after I glue it back together, and the parking ticket clip on the A-pillar which I'll likely include in my next batch of parts.

I may have gone a little too dark, probably going to spring for ceramic tint in the future.

[abscate]

Are you getting 12V to the starter post or 12V to the small green wire pulled off the solenoid spade connector?

Or, both, with Key in KPIII (cranking position)

[scot850]

Those are fitted correctly. They should just flip down from the top to release the seat. If they are not moving it could be they are damaged or just stuck from lack of use. One of the few times WD-40 works, or silicon oil.

My car came with tint. Normally I wouldn't bother myself, but I do like the cooling it gives in summer having a black interior!

Neil.

[levalexi]

Are you getting 12V to the starter post or 12V to the small green wire pulled off the solenoid spade connector?

Or, both, with Key in KPIII (cranking position)

12v to the white post in the fuse, 12v to the green connector, 12v to the starter posts.

hooked up my multimeter to the starter post to see if anything changes while cranking.....

WHAT THE FUCKING FUCK FUCK HELL.....


I turn the key to crank....


And it fires right up. No intercooler hoses, no vacuum attached to the intake manifold, no sensors hooked up on the throttle pipe.

What the fucking hell.

Why would it do that? Is one of those things bad?

[bmdubya1198]

Are you getting 12V to the starter post or 12V to the small green wire pulled off the solenoid spade connector?

Or, both, with Key in KPIII (cranking position)

12v to the white post in the fuse, 12v to the green connector, 12v to the starter posts.

hooked up my multimeter to the starter post to see if anything changes while cranking.....

WHAT THE FUCKING FUCK FUCK HELL.....


I turn the key to crank....


And it fires right up. No intercooler hoses, no vacuum attached to the intake manifold, no sensors hooked up on the throttle pipe.

What the fucking hell.

Why would it do that? Is one of those things bad?

That sounds about right! Maybe the connection is a little loose?

[scot850]

It would be worth checking the connectors on the starter and make sure they are clean, along with your battery connections.

Neil.

[levalexi]

Are you getting 12V to the starter post or 12V to the small green wire pulled off the solenoid spade connector?

Or, both, with Key in KPIII (cranking position)

12v to the white post in the fuse, 12v to the green connector, 12v to the starter posts.

hooked up my multimeter to the starter post to see if anything changes while cranking.....

WHAT THE FUCKING FUCK FUCK HELL.....


I turn the key to crank....


And it fires right up. No intercooler hoses, no vacuum attached to the intake manifold, no sensors hooked up on the throttle pipe.

What the fucking hell.

Why would it do that? Is one of those things bad?

That sounds about right! Maybe the connection is a little loose?

Left for the store and now it's back to not wanting to start

[scot850]

Made the usual mistake of going to the junkyard today to look at 850 fixtures and fittings. A couple of requests. Pulled a window and mirror master switch and harness and tried to get the resistor pack for an ECC unit but the part number was not the one I was given. Looking at it further it looks like the same item was fitted to 93-97 ECC cars. So it is weird the resistor pack has either been fitted wrongly from a later car or there is a number up-change that I can't find?

Naturally came back with parts I don't need. Pulled a sensor from a P2 that I discovered checks what is going on outside and fits in the cabin air intake. Not only is it a stupid design requiring a plastic lock tab to be released before being able to rotate it to remove, it is a pain to access. Volvo online part price? $400 Cdn!!

Of course a few other parts also found their way back too!

Neil.

[scot850]

What is I did find was that some of the parts I pulled, like a weird looking cabin fan motor and resistor pack, were actually weird looking as they were from an MCC heating system. Was looking for an ECC resistor 'pack' for a 95 850. There was a 97 850 SE NA there and another 850 that they don't have listed. It is a pain as trying to find what year it was was nearly impossible, all I can say is it is not a 97 as it is a GLT without turbo, meaning MY96 or older. Problem was it had an ECC unit and resistor, but the part number I was asked for sis not match up. Looking on line the only ECC part number I can find is # 9134932. That was fitted to either 95-97 ECC cars, or all 93-97 ECC cars depending on which Volvo parts site you look at. They do give a chassis number as used from, but that is definetly unhelpful when you put a 94 car in and it gives you that part number.

I'm wondering if the car owner has used a similar looking 98- part. Kicking myself I did not pull the part number or take a photo of it.

Neil.

[brunocerous]

Replaced a fuel pump relay in the snow after a few weeks of intermittent cold-start failures, and Blue Steel fired right up!

IMG_2558.jpeg

You should replace the capacitors in the old one and keep it as a spare.

I’d definitely give it a shot. Is there a how-to somewhere? If not, might be worth it to crack it open and try to figure it out.