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What is your next car?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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xHeart
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Re: What is your next car?

Post by xHeart »

cn90 wrote: 24 Jan 2024, 14:25 Some ppl tell me to stay about from Ford 3.2L engine.

For the 2013 S60 T5...is it a good car?
Our 2013 XC90 is a B6324S5 DENSO TF-80SC AWD; a very simple set up at compressor bracket. The parts snap in place with relative ease. Low torque assembly, mostly 17-24Nm; 50Nm max. ZERO issues at REED (alternator side).

There is nothing you can not improve CN90.
--
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

dikidera wrote: 25 Jan 2024, 03:20 What do you mean by something goes wrong?
Anything, anything at all that goes wrong on cars. I don't advocate to my friends anything now. I used to (tech, cars) but I felt preachy after a while.

If they solicit my thoughts, I will but with plenty of disclaimers.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!

1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

cn90 wrote: 24 Jan 2024, 14:25 Some ppl tell me to stay away from the Ford 3.2L engine.
I've read this a few times as well. The 3.0 six is good, the 3.2 had issues.
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

deano1
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Post by deano1 »

After recently shopping for car insurance quotes it seems some of the big companies are not issuing coverage for our 20 year old rides.
Some brokers saying they will issue basic liability so you can drive the car but they will not issue collision coverage.
Some brokers will ask you to submit "Vehicle Condition Report" like the one below. Saying "just take it to your mechanic and have him fill out this form", Basically getting a safety certificate. None of that would be free of charge of course so any savings are burned up paying the mechanic.
Anyone else notice this?
VehicleCoditionReport.jpg
VehicleCoditionReport.jpg (209.75 KiB) Viewed 271 times
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Paying for collision on a 20 year old makes no sense. All of my fleet are down to $2000 of value so paying $300 a year for at most a $1000 payout ,,,,,,
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

deano1
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Post by deano1 »

Yeah sorry I hijacked that tread, but I thought that was relevant information. Maybe not.

But to put things back on track, lately in my searches for Volvo replacement I bought a 2002 BMW 540i.
Sometimes BMW is acronym for Break My Wallet.
Beautiful ride but technically over whelming in a lot of ways. Timing chain and 4 cam phaser. Oh! special tools required to do the job.
No thanks.
If I had to describe it in two words, "Oil leak". Or as my neighbour said, "it's marking it's territory". So maybe BMW isn't the answer.
Should've bought the 6! not the V8.

But seriously, Lexus and Infinity are both high up on my list of new old cars to look for. Also Accord or Camry, although pretty bland styling would also work.
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BlackBart
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Post by BlackBart »

Maybe an actual 2002 might have been the answer??

We’ve thought about the insurance thing a lot, finally canceled collision coverage on the newest car.

So, say your hypothetical main ride is worth $4000. No collision because it’s too old, not worth it. But it’s a great car, you’ve done a lot of work on it, you could jump in and go on a 1000 mi jaunt without worrying.

Somebody totals it, because it doesn’t take much to cause $3000 in damage. You’re out a car, you’re out all the careful work with good parts and good MVS advice. You’ve got to come up with cash and locate a suitable used replacement, and back to the question : What is your next car?
ex-1984 245T wagon
1994 850T5 wagon
2004 XC70 wagon BlackBetty

vtl
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Post by vtl »

BlackBart wrote: 27 Jan 2024, 13:09 Somebody totals it, because it doesn’t take much to cause $3000 in damage. You’re out a car, you’re out all the careful work with good parts and good MVS advice. You’ve got to come up with cash and locate a suitable used replacement, and back to the question : What is your next car?
I "totaled" mine in 2017, bought the same year, model, color cheap ($2200) and transplanted the drivetrain and undamaged interior and exterior parts.

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

I’m not sure about the U.S. but we have the option to buy the car back from the insurance company if it gets totaled here in Canada. With that in mind, I would buy another Xc 70 and use all my new parts on it and rebuild the engine and transmission for later installation. I really cannot think of a vehicle that better suits my need and that I enjoy as much as this car.
I was in the Volvo dealership today to pick up our XC 60 that had a seatbelt recall and was looking at the new V 90. Absolutely beautiful car but I doubt if I could fix anything on it myself, or afford to pay the dealership when it breaks. With the tailgate open it looks like it has less room than an old XC 70 in the back and also narrower, not adequate for two large dogs which is a dealbreaker. Beautiful car though and I applaud Volvo for continuing to offer a traditional wagon.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

vtl
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Post by vtl »

Blacklab467 wrote: 27 Jan 2024, 19:53 I would buy another Xc 70 and use all my new parts on it and rebuild the engine and transmission for later installation.
Transmission - maybe. It has a couple of critical casing wear points, which still can be solved reasonably inexpensive. Engine - likely no. It is open deck and taper a lot. A proper fix is Darton sleeves, which price is exorbitant. Also when cylinder head warps, the camshafts grind through lobes in the head and valve cover.

I had both rebuilt. Have more confidence in the longevity of the transmission than in engine. The engine wasn't bad, at least not for its miles, however it is not intended for a proper rebuild to a "like new" condition.

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