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What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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RedBrickCollector
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Re: What did you do to your Volvo today?

Post by RedBrickCollector »

Sveedy wrote: 11 Mar 2024, 10:19 Advantages to not having it installed :
One less thing to remove and reinstall if you need to see/do anything under there.
If you happen to be fumble fingered, as I sometimes seem to be, any nut, bolt, socket etc that you might drop, will probably not make it to the ground. Not that they ever do.
Without it, you can reach up behind the drivers side headlight and trip the hood latches if needed.

I'm not sold on it's cooling affect. When the car is moving, then the vast majority of the air is blowing directly on the front of the radiator sandwich. Cooling becomes more of an issue when sitting in traffic, so I would think it would hurt more than help in that situation.
I have broadly similar thoughts because I can't tell if it acts like a shroud or not. Sitting in traffic is my bigger issue, so if it serves to make sure that any air pulled by the fan goes through the radiator, I might get one
'97 950 T-5 Wagon
'89 and '95 Daihatsu Feroza

scot850
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Post by scot850 »

It does act as a shroud and channels air through the radiator and A/C. There is a lower duct that pushes more air up and into the radiator.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
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1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
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jsrnsis
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Post by jsrnsis »

scot850 wrote: 05 Mar 2024, 15:37 Having done this several times, I use JB Weld Plastic epoxy or Marine GOOP for the plastic pieces to the card and use clamps and pieces of thick cardboard on the outer faces of the panels to prevent the clamps marking and leaving an indent.

For the panel to panel sections, I use PL XL? construction adhesive and again using either clamps or just a weight on the inner part laying the whole panel face down.

Don't go too hard on the previous owner other than for not keeping the parts. One of the most important is a piece that looks like a coffin or T-piece in white that sits at the top rear edge of the panel and sits in a slot in the metal ridge on the top of the door panel. It takes the weight of the door panel and heavy elbows to prevent straining the other mounts.

Neil.
Funny you should say that, because that piece was missing on one door of our white wagon we did the doors on previously, and we assumed it was useless. I just happened to grab the pieces from the parts car I took the other brackets off of, glad I did.

I ended up using construction adhesive for everything and getting creative with the rag-tag assortment of clamps we have. I'll post a detailed writeup in its own thread since I think I'd be the only one to post with the method I used.
volvolugnut wrote: 05 Mar 2024, 08:23 I have had good success with contact cement for these type mounts on this fiber board. Clean the old glue by scraping. Apply contact cement to both surfaces and wait until tacky. If it is no longer tacky because you had too many surfaces to apply contact cement, then reactivate the cement with acetone.
A primer coat of thin contact cement may be helpful if the fiber board soaks up the cement.
Clean up excess with acetone.
volvolugnut
I bought a can of brush-on cement, but having more experience with construction adhesive, I went that route and returned the contact cement. I did use spray-on contact cement for the foam and leather inserts though.

On the topic of the shroud on the bottom of the car, it definetly keeps a lot of crap from getting up onto the hose clamps, and AC receiver drier. The white wagon came without a shroud, and the radiator hose clamp was rusted and seized, and the AC receiver drier was rusted through all behind the clamp (and absolutely full of stop leak and dye).
1998 V70XC black 183xxx
2014 S80 T6 AWD 110xxx
1998 V70XC nautic blue 155xxx
1997 850 GLT 123xxx
2024 Honda CRF110F
Previous Volvos:
1997 850 GLT 239,577
1998 V70 NA silver 202,510
1994 850 NA gray 125,000
1998 V70 NA white 163xxx

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

You definitely want the air guide in wet climates. The URO one is decent and really affordable, I got two for one when Amazon sent me a broken one, a replacement, and told me to discard the old. I fixed it of course
Empty Nester
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bmdubya1198
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Post by bmdubya1198 »

abscate wrote: 16 Mar 2024, 06:26 You definitely want the air guide in wet climates. The URO one is decent and really affordable, I got two for one when Amazon sent me a broken one, a replacement, and told me to discard the old. I fixed it of course
I love when they do that... and being that I hate wasting anything, it would certainly be fixed!
00 V70R Venetian Red/Charcoal M56 Swapped 214k
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92 245 White/Beige 249k
91 944 Turbo 175k
…and a bunch of other stuff
Sold-
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

bmdubya1198 wrote: 16 Mar 2024, 09:08
abscate wrote: 16 Mar 2024, 06:26 You definitely want the air guide in wet climates. The URO one is decent and really affordable, I got two for one when Amazon sent me a broken one, a replacement, and told me to discard the old. I fixed it of course
I love when they do that... and being that I hate wasting anything, it would certainly be fixed!
Internet traffic from Scotland and Calgary to URO just crashed the web
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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foggydogg
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Post by foggydogg »

Intermittent no-crank earlier in the day led to a more permanent situation, fortunately in the driveway. Troubleshooting diagnostic path led me to the reluctant conclusion that after a man-to-man chat with my back, ...
IMG_0628.JPG
IMG_0628.JPG (394.16 KiB) Viewed 1562 times
Je l'ai trouvé
69 1800s, @500k Death by Rust
94 850 Turbo, T-boned, ambulance for me, crusher for it
97 855 T5, 855 R projects
98 V70R x2, Silver Junkyard rescue, Coral Red
98 V70GLT x2, parts cars
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brunocerous
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Post by brunocerous »

Soldered a new pair of headlight sockets into the T5 after stealing one for Blue Steel and installed new Sylvania bulbs.

Now hoping the battery doesn't die again.
1998 Volvo V70 T5 headlights on
1998 Volvo V70 T5 headlights on
IMG_3767.JPG (396 KiB) Viewed 1556 times
2000 V70, base, MT, 'The Silver Bullet'
1998 V70, base, AT, 'Blue Steel'
1998 V70 T5, AT, project
2004 XC90 AWD (sold)
1999 V70 XC AWD, AT (RIP)
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xanthefin
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Post by xanthefin »

foggydogg wrote: 18 Mar 2024, 09:20 Intermittent no-crank earlier in the day led to a more permanent situation, fortunately in the driveway. Troubleshooting diagnostic path led me to the reluctant conclusion that after a man-to-man chat with my back, ...
IMG_0628.JPG
Je l'ai trouvé
I want wireless starter.

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ZionXIX
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Post by ZionXIX »

foggydogg wrote: 18 Mar 2024, 09:20 Intermittent no-crank earlier in the day led to a more permanent situation, fortunately in the driveway. Troubleshooting diagnostic path led me to the reluctant conclusion that after a man-to-man chat with my back, ...
IMG_0628.JPG
Je l'ai trouvé
Some times it do be that way.
Scarlett: 1996 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl ~210K mi
Norman: 2012 F150 XLT Crew Cab in Oxford White ~110K mi
Ember: 2005 XC90 2.5T FWD in Ruby Red Metallic ~83K mi *Newest addition to the fleet*
Ruby: 1997 850 Turbo Wagon in Reagent Red Pearl - parts car
Rose: 2020 Ram 1500 in Delmonico Red Pearl - SWMBO's Vehicle

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