What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[02V70]

Well, a few disappointing things.

The fuel maps I edited, the ones that BSR also modify to potentially increase fuel, seem to do nothing, at least not where I expect them to. Looking at them again with fresh eyes, it could be fuel maps related to startup enrichment. In which case, BSR and others never really managed to increase the fuel delivery beyond the first 60 seconds of startup.

The VVT maps took effect but I cannot say I noticed anything, the advancement was very little. And without a dyno I cannot presume to say whether I gained or lost power.

The K&N filter was installed today, I honestly expected a bit more lower end torque simply because it is high flowing AND the old filter was dirty as hell. However it almost felt like I lost power. If I have lost power this is because of only one thing, changes in turbulence. Of course I cannot really tell without a dyno.

This is not the best representation and the data is not correctly aligned but:



Left is old VVT map + old filter. Right is with my VVT modifcations and K&N filter.

The graph is broken however, notice that the RPM grid lines do not correctly reflect the red RPM line, so at first glance things may seem weird.

What software/hardware do you use to program the cars computer?

[dikidera]

Beside the volvo official secondary bootloader I was kindly provided, everything else is done via my own software and hardware stack. So it's pretty much custom.

[Krons]

I think it is a slipping torque converter at full locked which overheated it slightly, I was goofing around in 3rd, so maybe it was that.

Hey dikidera just curious if you got your transmission / torque converter sorted?

My 08 S80 2.5T FWD has been having an occasional transmission slip at 60-75 mph speeds under light load. Seem at full throttle it pulls fine and drives good around town. Wondering if mine might be the torque converter going or issue with the valve controlling it. Of course local transmission shop wants a repeatable symptom to diagnose it.

I added 2oz Lubeguard Instant Shudder Fixx and seems better, considering adding another 2oz. Been using Valvoline Maxlife ATF in this car. Welcome any input from the community!

[dikidera]

Vtl is better equipped to say about this topic, but I simply avoid putting the car in 3rd and slowly accelerating uphill.

In more aggressive acceleration the TC is unlocked, especially at WOT so the TC cannot slip then

Vtl would say for you to use only original Volvo atf and lube guard which you've already done.

At 60mph the TC should be fully locked, I am not sure what your exact symptoms are, but it sounds more serious than mine. Why? Because at full lock if you are getting slip, it could be a worn out TC clutch OR you have a pressure problem developing. These gearboxes do not contain any pressure sensors, as such they rely on pre-programmed pressure values, these drift over time due to wear and tear and possibly change with the oil properties as well.
Actually I am specifically referring to Aw55, for the TF80-SC it could very well be slightly different. But from e mechanical standpoint, the information should still be relevant.

I do know that the TF80-SC is more picky about fluid. You can read more about the discussion we had last year about it

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/ques ... tf.669988/

[TisMe]

Just finished my first timing belt overhaul on a car with dual cams. Pretty intimidating stuff, at least the first time. An impact on the 30mm and 10mm crank bolts is so dang vital. And the timing mark from Volvo really wasn't very clean, so I'm thrilled I kept it lined up hehe. Got the rear seals replaced too, one of them was definitely weeping.

I should have taken out the cam sprockets/hubs and done the front seals as well, but when researching documents on it, the room for error seemed exponential. Figure I'll revisit that with more patience and knowledge... likely when I correct my sin of failing to buy a new water pump before tackling the belt -_-

Successful job, though! I'm a happy man today.

[Krons]

Vtl is better equipped to say about this topic, but I simply avoid putting the car in 3rd and slowly accelerating uphill.

In more aggressive acceleration the TC is unlocked, especially at WOT so the TC cannot slip then

Vtl would say for you to use only original Volvo atf and lube guard which you've already done.

At 60mph the TC should be fully locked, I am not sure what your exact symptoms are, but it sounds more serious than mine. Why? Because at full lock if you are getting slip, it could be a worn out TC clutch OR you have a pressure problem developing. These gearboxes do not contain any pressure sensors, as such they rely on pre-programmed pressure values, these drift over time due to wear and tear and possibly change with the oil properties as well.
Actually I am specifically referring to Aw55, for the TF80-SC it could very well be slightly different. But from e mechanical standpoint, the information should still be relevant.

I do know that the TF80-SC is more picky about fluid. You can read more about the discussion we had last year about it

https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/ques ... tf.669988/

This is an Aisin AW-55 (FWD 08 S60 2.5T 168k miles). Has an occasional shudder/slip at full lock when the car is fully warmed up maybe four times on a two hour interstate drive. At freeway speeds (70-75 seems most common) leaning into the power a bit before it kicks down. Seems to me either the TC clutch is slipping or the valve controlling it is having issues. Has never happened in town, or even 45-60mph range).

Today I added an additional 2oz of a Lubeguard Shudder Fixx (4oz total now) and took it on the interstate, no issues. Interestingly I did do a drain and fill about 4000 miles ago, the 4th I’ve done with Valvoline Maxlife ATF since I bought the car at 138k miles. ATF drained has been clean with no signs of debris. I wonder if the ATF may be getting a little to slippery for the TC clutch and the LubeGuard will help.

vtl if you have any wisdom to share I’d appreciate it.

[vtl]

vtl if you have any wisdom to share I’d appreciate it.

My wisdom, after I dumped more than a grand on finding a cheaper alternative to "expensive" Volvo OE fluid says: use Volvo OE. It costs about $60 for 4 liters in US, and healthy transmission always works best with it. How cheaper than that can you really go? Each time you feel transmission shudder, it tells you it is eating itself inside out.

Disintegrating TC clutch produces a lot of worn clutch material - the black soot-like stuff you find in ATF. Your ATF is clean, so it is not yet disintegrating. But shudder clearly says it is missing slippage additives.

More likely than not the transmission has wear/age problems with valve body and clutches, but it can drive with light problems for hundred thousand miles if care is taken. MaxLife is much less viscous than Volvo ATF, that alone steals a healthy share of fluid pressure from the application, why make transmission's hard life even worse? In fact, cSt@100 of 5.9 is absurdly low for AW55. Toyota T-IV has about 7.3, Volvo numbers I saw somewhere is even higher.

Use Volvo ATF, install auxiliary ATF cooler and add Magnefine filter.

[dikidera]

@vtl, what auxiliary ATF cooler do you recommend? An aftermarket or something Volvo? Air cooled or water cooled? Bypassing the radiator one or IN addition to it? And does adding it in any way change the fluid amount requirements?

Also update on my Denso map changes.

I thought maybe I missed something, but no. Changing the fuel maps that BSR change as well as other guys results in no change to the fuel injected in the car. As such the AFR remains close to the original. One thing I did not do is reset the fuel adaptations.

My observations of my logs has shown that the car @ WOT remains at 14.7 afr(lean burn) up to 5200 RPM. It's either RPM or airflow based. It is not engine load based in my opinion, because as RPM rises, the volumetric efficiency of the engine decreases, as such even load. Whereas AFR starts to go slightly rich at 5200 rpm.

In my maps I commanded a 12.2 afr at 4000 rpm up to 6400 and above. Instead I barely get 13.3 and only at 6300 and above. Before that point, lean burn.

[vtl]

@vtl, what auxiliary ATF cooler do you recommend? An aftermarket or something Volvo? Air cooled or water cooled? Bypassing the radiator one or IN addition to it? And does adding it in any way change the fluid amount requirements?

I have Hayden 678 installed serially after stock heat exchanger. No thermostat. In hot climate like yours I would bypass heat exchanger altogether.

Adds maybe 0.2-0.3l of ATF capacity.

Water sprinkler would bring the overall cooling efficiency to a different league.

[dikidera]

@vtl, what auxiliary ATF cooler do you recommend? An aftermarket or something Volvo? Air cooled or water cooled? Bypassing the radiator one or IN addition to it? And does adding it in any way change the fluid amount requirements?

I have Hayden 678 installed serially after stock heat exchanger. No thermostat. In hot climate like yours I would bypass heat exchanger altogether.

Adds maybe 0.2-0.3l of ATF capacity.

Water sprinkler would bring the overall cooling efficiency to a different league.

May I ask why bypassing the internal radiator cooler would be wise in the hot climate? Wouldn't the internal cooler in the radiator help the gearbox cool off during idle/traffic jams and the front mounted cooler also help when going at higher vehicle speed?