What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[vtl]

May I ask why bypassing the internal radiator cooler would be wise in the hot climate? Wouldn't the internal cooler in the radiator help the gearbox cool off during idle/traffic jams and the front mounted cooler also help when going at higher vehicle speed?

No. Transmission does not generate that much heat that aux cooler is not able to cope with. Also aux cooler is the first thing that gets cool air. Then goes A/C, then the engine radiator.

Higher vehicle speed with torque converter locked means the transmission does not generate much heat at all.

[dikidera]

My transmission often is at 90c at 16c ambient Temps. As soon as it gets a bit hotter at 25 ambient it is nearing 100 quite often. But my driving style is very aggressive. A couple of months ago , we had a freak warm day, I decided to wot my car a few times. The transmission was at 105c for a good 10 minutes even with normal driving.

My car is often with unlocked TC because of road conditions and spirited driving.

[vtl]

Mine almost never goes above like 85ish C, even on hotter days (+35 C). Without aux cooler - yeah, was doing over 100 routinely. In Boston "winter" it rarely reaches 65 C, and drives butter-smooth.

It's also a Stage1 tuned 2.5 turbo, which is ~230 HP and ~370 Nm - lot more than N/A B5244S can ever get.

[dikidera]

Mine was 85c today with normal driving and 90c with more spirited. Spirited meaning wide open throttle in 2nd from a standstill.

Also , yes, the b5244s will not get 230hp, but if we are to mention specifics, it can. Thr fcp euro 850 using the same engine probably achieved 180 or 200hp at the wheels. But they used every expensive thing. But I digress.

Also, remember I am modifying the fuel maps. Once I am able to control fueling, it is all a matter of slapping a turbo, with my high compression I cannot run much boost, but if I play my cards right I can reach 200hp easily.

[Krons]

vtl if you have any wisdom to share I’d appreciate it.

My wisdom, after I dumped more than a grand on finding a cheaper alternative to "expensive" Volvo OE fluid says: use Volvo OE. It costs about $60 for 4 liters in US, and healthy transmission always works best with it. How cheaper than that can you really go? Each time you feel transmission shudder, it tells you it is eating itself inside out.

Disintegrating TC clutch produces a lot of worn clutch material - the black soot-like stuff you find in ATF. Your ATF is clean, so it is not yet disintegrating. But shudder clearly says it is missing slippage additives.

More likely than not the transmission has wear/age problems with valve body and clutches, but it can drive with light problems for hundred thousand miles if care is taken. MaxLife is much less viscous than Volvo ATF, that alone steals a healthy share of fluid pressure from the application, why make transmission's hard life even worse? In fact, cSt@100 of 5.9 is absurdly low for AW55. Toyota T-IV has about 7.3, Volvo numbers I saw somewhere is even higher.

Use Volvo ATF, install auxiliary ATF cooler and add Magnefine filter.

Great advice vtl, thank you.

Fortunately I think I’ve caught this early, I’m the only one driving this car and guessing it has slipped less than a dozen times. 2oz of Lubeguard helped but didn’t cure, hoping the additional 2oz will hold me over until my next ATF change.

I’ve already given up on the Valvoline Maxlife ATF since they raised prices to where 3309 is…that little extra for Volvo fluid make sense. Do you still recommend some Lubeguard with the Volvo fluid? It is not expensive.

[vtl]

Do you still recommend some Lubeguard with the Volvo fluid? It is not expensive.

Yeah. I used Lubegard HFM to boost up dull Volvo ATF. With Magnefine filter and aux cooler ATF does not burn up much, it stays clear and pink even when the shift quality starts to deteriorate. When I'm not up to ATF drain&fill in coming weeks, I add a couple of ounces of HFM. My gut feeling is it's very similar to what Volvo gets in its ATF.

I actually had the transmission rebuilt a few years ago, with the brand new valve body. Little needs to be done for maintenance besides d&f like every year or so.

[TisMe]

vtl if you have any wisdom to share I’d appreciate it.

My wisdom, after I dumped more than a grand on finding a cheaper alternative to "expensive" Volvo OE fluid says: use Volvo OE. It costs about $60 for 4 liters in US, and healthy transmission always works best with it. How cheaper than that can you really go? Each time you feel transmission shudder, it tells you it is eating itself inside out.

Disintegrating TC clutch produces a lot of worn clutch material - the black soot-like stuff you find in ATF. Your ATF is clean, so it is not yet disintegrating. But shudder clearly says it is missing slippage additives.

More likely than not the transmission has wear/age problems with valve body and clutches, but it can drive with light problems for hundred thousand miles if care is taken. MaxLife is much less viscous than Volvo ATF, that alone steals a healthy share of fluid pressure from the application, why make transmission's hard life even worse? In fact, cSt@100 of 5.9 is absurdly low for AW55. Toyota T-IV has about 7.3, Volvo numbers I saw somewhere is even higher.

Use Volvo ATF, install auxiliary ATF cooler and add Magnefine filter.

Fantastic information and explanation, per usual.

The Aisin ATF in my shed has been staring at me for over a month now, and now I am more excited to make real upgrades during my first flush and fill.

[dikidera]

I really wanted Lubeguard HFM however it is on Europe's banned substances. As such it cannot be imported in the EU.

[vtl]

I really wanted Lubeguard HFM however it is on Europe's banned substances. As such it cannot be imported in the EU.

Classic automatic transmission, with wet friction clutches and torque converter, is unloved child in Europe.

[volvolugnut]

vtl if you have any wisdom to share I’d appreciate it.

My wisdom, after I dumped more than a grand on finding a cheaper alternative to "expensive" Volvo OE fluid says: use Volvo OE. It costs about $60 for 4 liters in US, and healthy transmission always works best with it. How cheaper than that can you really go? Each time you feel transmission shudder, it tells you it is eating itself inside out.

Disintegrating TC clutch produces a lot of worn clutch material - the black soot-like stuff you find in ATF. Your ATF is clean, so it is not yet disintegrating. But shudder clearly says it is missing slippage additives.

More likely than not the transmission has wear/age problems with valve body and clutches, but it can drive with light problems for hundred thousand miles if care is taken. MaxLife is much less viscous than Volvo ATF, that alone steals a healthy share of fluid pressure from the application, why make transmission's hard life even worse? In fact, cSt@100 of 5.9 is absurdly low for AW55. Toyota T-IV has about 7.3, Volvo numbers I saw somewhere is even higher.

Use Volvo ATF, install auxiliary ATF cooler and add Magnefine filter.

vtl, Do you know the viscosity of Mobil 3309?
Thanks for your explanation of viscosity numbers and impact on the transmission.
volvolugnut