2008 S60 T 2.5L FWD Stalled at stop light, crank no start

[mghdi1120]

4/24/24
Stalled at stop light and would not turn over
Jumped and it tried to start with jump box
pressure at the rail- yes
Pump is priming- yes
oil is dark
car had been running fine before stall except that on the same day, I did feel hesitation at stops

4/26/2024 5 new 6962 NGK spark plugs and Replaced cracked #3 position coil pack, the whole plug was cracked. Jumped with cables on boost box in rear and auto jumper cables to my car in the front. Battery read 13 amps and everywhere I Tested the power amperage was solid...No inline fuses to check
Cycled the key 4 times and tried to start.
Checked spark plugs and found the black, wet, shiny and smelling of fuel. Replaced them all.
Pulled the starter to test off the car. It is working just fine
Today
I'll re- install and be sure ignition connection is tight. :
Next, I'll pull the fuel rail and test the injectors for clogs./ clean with carb cleaner and a 9 v battery and re- install.
It is now still cranking but not trying so hard to start, more whining that kicking over than on day one.
Any ideas?
Victor is in a big parking lot of a vacant office building near my house so I'm heading over now.
This is my husbands car, mine is 98V70 base wagon 5 speed manual with 254k . I've been learning the S60 one issue at a time. Replacing the alternator was the last true knuckle scraper. I've already tried to get the local mechanic to go tow it. he laughed at me and told me to go work on spark before I give up


YV1RS592382690419

[cn90]

Try to find a good used PEM, swap it to see if it starts.

[mghdi1120]

If there is fuel at the rail, Is the pem still suspect?
I let all the pressure out of the shrader, there was plenty. Then cranked and ( still no start) tried again. Just as much fuel as the first time, plenty!

I'm getting nowhere...Injectors back in, plenty of fuel at the rail. Plenty of battery, pulled the starter relay and jumpered it, kicked on no problem but still didn't start.

[mghdi1120]

Please help!

[hharrell4th]

Swap out the fuel pump control module. I had the same thing happen on an 04 VR

[V50M66]

Did it jump time?

[jonesg]

Please help!

you need to know the fuel pressure, plenty of fuel at the rail is too vague, it takes more than 30psi to spray atomized fuel.
50+psi is good for starting.

[mghdi1120]

This saga is ongoing. I'll test the pressure at the rail tomorrow. My indi guy was leaving for an overseas trip and they are cutting the catalytic converters off of parked cars around his shop ( He sold his lot to a developer). So I towed to a local guy who had it for 5 weeks and said he tested and got no compression in cylinders 4 and 5 and didn't charge me.) I towed it home and then promptly broke my wrist tripping in my garden. It has been 2 weeks and the wrist is become more functional so we are back at it.
So today, I did a compression test, the first time in my life. Realized I wasn't full down on the throttle, repeated it. Thinking that there have been dozens of attempted starts at this point and that the walls had been "washed" by fuel, I squirted a very small bit ( like one squirt from a windex bottle of oil) in the cylinders. 5- 137, 4-138,3- 85, then oil spray ( 2 squirts) 160. 2- 125
1- 157. The 157 is so out there, I repeated it and got 157 again.
Will THAT OIL JUST SIT IN THERE OR WILL IT DRAIN OUT BY TOMORROW SUFFICIENTLY TO RE-DO THE TEST?

I had replaced the spark plugs before towing it to my less than willing local mechanic and found a piece of shattered spark plug in the #3 cylinder with a boriscope while I was in there looking at the valves and pistons etc., found the rest of it on the floor with the coil packs in the car. I managed to vacume out every last sliver with all kinds of contraptions... I don't even want to ask how that got in there.. But his "no compression" wasn't true. The compression is uneven but it wan't zero at all. It's cranking normally, not speeding through the cyle. We ( my 16 y/o daughter and I) cranked it over by hand lined upp the upper timing marks and checked the mark on the cranshaft. It looks to me with the cams at TDC, the crank is left of TDC by one valley, is that normal? It cranks by hand pretty smoothly, the belt looks perfectly health, no tiny cracks. No codes on my ( pretty basic) code reader and no check engine light.

[jonesg]

ok, lets start with diagnosis first.

#1 lets verify timing .

#2 line up the crankshaft first, then look at the upper cam timing marks.

With the lower CRANKSHAFT PULLEY aligned , how do the UPPER CAMS look, are they off, if yes ... by how many teeth ?

if the cam timing is off by 3 to 4 teeth , stop cranking it.
Disconnect the battery to prevent anyone else, the valves could get bent.

if the timing is good we can move on and diagnose the broken plug.

[jonesg]

Did it jump time?

thats possible. it would explain low compression.