i got a clicking noise when turning at slow speeds, driver side axle.
whilst waiting for parts i decided to rehearse the job, nothing wants to come apart.
even the wheel wouldn't come off the hub.
Balljoint nut took an aweful amount of grunt work, got it,
The control arm doesn't want to pull down either.
I'm definitely using anti seize when it all goes back.
What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?
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dikidera
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May sound silly but once you take off the bolts, and provided the car is secure and has no chance of falling, a kick to the wheel usually sets it loose. Other oldschoolers would loosen the wheel bolts just slightly and then drive the car just a bit and the wheel will come loose.
The axle might be stuck inside the wheel bearing in which case hammering it with something big and flat(enough to fit inside) usually helps. The control arm itself can only go down so much, it is limited by the fact that is inserted inside the subframe.
A little tidbit, the upper bolt of the strut I think is what controls wheel camber.
The axle might be stuck inside the wheel bearing in which case hammering it with something big and flat(enough to fit inside) usually helps. The control arm itself can only go down so much, it is limited by the fact that is inserted inside the subframe.
A little tidbit, the upper bolt of the strut I think is what controls wheel camber.
- jonesg
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i have a 2 post lift , i lowered it onto its wheels and it popped off, i was about to drive up and down the driveway with loose lugs.
i made a tool for pulling the control arm down, just a short section of chain to loop through the hole in the control arm, connect the two ends of the chain witjh a nut and bolt... then put the pry bar through the loop and pull down.
i made a tool for pulling the control arm down, just a short section of chain to loop through the hole in the control arm, connect the two ends of the chain witjh a nut and bolt... then put the pry bar through the loop and pull down.
- Blacklab467
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On the suspension issue. Been quite a while since I last did a P2 front suspension. If you replaced the lower control arm, I believe I recall, like the P80's you should not torque the control arm bolts until the weight is on the suspension or you can damage the bushes.
I may be wrong, so maybe someone who has done this recently can confirm?
Neil.
[/quote]
Just wanted to clarify this because there seems to be many different opinions on this. On the P2 LCA's the torsilastic bushings on the arms only have 1 position for mounting so there is no requirement to torque with weight on the ground. the P80's have a different mounting configuration whereby it is advantageous for functionality and bushing longevity to torque them with vehicle weight on wheels which is "neutral position" on the bushing.
Hope this helps.
I may be wrong, so maybe someone who has done this recently can confirm?
Neil.
[/quote]
Just wanted to clarify this because there seems to be many different opinions on this. On the P2 LCA's the torsilastic bushings on the arms only have 1 position for mounting so there is no requirement to torque with weight on the ground. the P80's have a different mounting configuration whereby it is advantageous for functionality and bushing longevity to torque them with vehicle weight on wheels which is "neutral position" on the bushing.
Hope this helps.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.
- Krons
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I did the loosen lug bolts and a short drive to the corner trick when I first had my 2002 S60. The parts of the wheel that touch the rotor have gotten a very light coat of grease every time the wheels come off since then, no issues.
08 S602.5T/05 XC902.5T/02 S602.4T
08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
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08 C702.5T (sold)
05 S402.4i (RIP, timing belt failure)
The non-Swedes:
25 Mazda MX-5 / 17 Frontier Pro-4X / 17 Ford Focus
17 R1200GS / 15 Versys 1000 / 11 DR-Z400S / 07 R1200GSA
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dikidera
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Not what I did today per se, but today I drove in a mountain range and my AW55 reached 110c, and the engine 105C, at 25C ambient temps. I hope I didnt cook the oil much, but a refresh may be due.
I had to change to 3rd gear on the shifter when climbing, and besides my worn TCC clutch, it felt as if the car didnt have power in 3rd gear, I cannot explain it.
Another thing is, when I replaced my head gasket, I did not apply the anaerobic sealant correctly and have so many oil leaks from the cam cover. Just another thing to the list of things to fix :/
I had to change to 3rd gear on the shifter when climbing, and besides my worn TCC clutch, it felt as if the car didnt have power in 3rd gear, I cannot explain it.
Another thing is, when I replaced my head gasket, I did not apply the anaerobic sealant correctly and have so many oil leaks from the cam cover. Just another thing to the list of things to fix :/
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dikidera
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Yes it was and there was one of those long-haul trucks which was also driving slow, it was a steep climb as you said, and the truck was driving very very slowly. No way to overtake since there were very sharp turns. That is when the engine temps went from my usual 88C while driving to 106 actually. Since I've owned the car I've never seen it go that high. The transmission climbed to 110.
For a while I've had the odd feeling that the engine fan isnt spinning at its full power. I think it had a High and a low setting internally and I think the High speed(maximum) doesn't work.
For a while I've had the odd feeling that the engine fan isnt spinning at its full power. I think it had a High and a low setting internally and I think the High speed(maximum) doesn't work.
- P80GLT
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Had to catch a ferry over to the Isle of Bute on Saturday to spread a relatives ashes. Got as far as Greenock and stopped at traffic lights when a huge plume of smoke went past the left side of the car. I pulled over as soon as possible to check and when I exited the car I could smell burning brake pads. My rear n/s caliper had stuck on and was toasting away. I let it cool down and carried on my way without further incident and managed to return home and no further problems.
Today I removed the offending caliper expecting either a seized piston or at the very least sticking sliding pins and from what I've seen there is nothing wrong. The sliding pins were clean and the caliper was sliding freely, pressing the pedal the piston pushed out it moved smoothly and pushed back easily. I then removed the disc and checked the parking brake shoes and once again all was fine even though it was a little bit dusty in there (normal). I cleaned it out and put it all back together and drove a few miles and when I returned I checked the temperature with a laser thermometer and all was fine.
So for now it's all back together and I'll keep a close watch on it and monitor the temperature.
Pagid pads fitted by the vendor before I purchased the car. Sliding pins are clean and serviceable Still plenty meat on them and wearing evenly Original 19 year old discs have no lip or wear
Today I removed the offending caliper expecting either a seized piston or at the very least sticking sliding pins and from what I've seen there is nothing wrong. The sliding pins were clean and the caliper was sliding freely, pressing the pedal the piston pushed out it moved smoothly and pushed back easily. I then removed the disc and checked the parking brake shoes and once again all was fine even though it was a little bit dusty in there (normal). I cleaned it out and put it all back together and drove a few miles and when I returned I checked the temperature with a laser thermometer and all was fine.
So for now it's all back together and I'll keep a close watch on it and monitor the temperature.
Pagid pads fitted by the vendor before I purchased the car. Sliding pins are clean and serviceable Still plenty meat on them and wearing evenly Original 19 year old discs have no lip or wear
- jonesg
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could be the emergency brake cable getting hung up.P80GLT wrote: ↑27 May 2024, 10:06 Had to catch a ferry over to the Isle of Bute on Saturday to spread a relatives ashes. Got as far as Greenock and stopped at traffic lights when a huge plume of smoke went past the left side of the car. I pulled over as soon as possible to check and when I exited the car I could smell burning brake pads. My rear n/s caliper had stuck on and was toasting away. I let it cool down and carried on my way without further incident and managed to return home and no further problems.
Today I removed the offending caliper expecting either a seized piston or at the very least sticking sliding pins and from what I've seen there is nothing wrong. The sliding pins were clean and the caliper was sliding freely, pressing the pedal the piston pushed out it moved smoothly and pushed back easily. I then removed the disc and checked the parking brake shoes and once again all was fine even though it was a little bit dusty in there (normal). I cleaned it out and put it all back together and drove a few miles and when I returned I checked the temperature with a laser thermometer and all was fine.
changed both my cables at 200K, they were stretched beyond adjustment.
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