Noob

[5underpressure]

Hi all, finally bought a Volvo after 30+ years of admiring them. The patient is a ran when parked 4-6 years ago 1998 t5 mt v70 288k miles

Trying to get this semi reliable before I sell my current daily which has been near trouble free for 3 years, I’ll likely regret it but, oh well!

Current to do list:
Replace tailgate latch
Replace p side hood latch, doesn’t latch
Find battery drain
Repair p side blend door function
See if ac will hold a charge
Begin the warning light elimination
Get the radio to work, fuses good but?
Exhaust air injection pump disconnected because noisy, exhaust stinks.
Remove 100 lbs of pine sap
Battery light hasn’t lit since new batt was installed, still need to get alt tested. Light would go out with revs.

Vehicle was parked due to a failing clutch master or slave, seller had difficulty shifting, I pumped the clutch pedal a dozen times and was left with enough function to drive it onto a trailer. Came with a used abs unit and a new lower torque strut assembly a qt of oil and $30 in coins under the seats.

After reading about electrical issues I’m Starting to think I want a dual battery setup. Main battery on a relay from ign on with a smaller battery for standby duty. Should the standby battery get drained I’ll still have power. I’ve had to keep a jump box in a vehicle or two I’ve owned in the past, I’m over that.

Haven’t driven it beyond on & off the trailer, moving it around, suspension seems tight, tire wear is even & doesn’t overheat idling.

[scot850]

Sounds like an interesting new project. Especially being a T5M. Why are you concerned about the alternator? If the light is not coming on other than when starting all is good. Having sat for some time inactive, it may just need to be used. Having said that, it is worth doing, at least you will know if you are getting full output.

I'm trying to understand why the SAS pump would make the exhaust stink. It only operated until the car is up to temp. So if the exhaust stinks after that the cat may be the issue. You are possibly aware of the diode modification for the SAS pump to eliminate it? Abscate used to have some of those to send out to those wishing to do this.

Does the radio have the under passenger side amplifier? If it does it may have failed with sitting that long. If it does, you can pull the head unit out of the dash, and try disconnecting the extension cable to the amp and plugging the cables directly into the rear of the radio. However, that may not help if it is an SC-900/901 unit as they need the amp to give sound, the other SC-815/6 models with single CD player have a built in amp. The SC-900/901 should still light up, but you just won't get sound. Do you have the radio code?

Good luck with this project and let us know how it is coming along!

Neil.

[5underpressure]

Well, I had a big long post typed out. I tapped preview and said I needed to log in

I don’t have the code for the radio. I believe fuse #7 was blown replacing it did nothing. It does have the amp receptacle but no cable just a CD changer plugged in, haven’t found the other end of it yet. No text on the display no backlighting not even a flash from the antitheft light. Have to check for power & ground at the harness where it plugs it to the radio.

I scraped a bunch of sap off fiddled with the headlights got both them working. Drove to the gas station filled it up with 89 (wasteful?) then I eased up the mountain for about 5 miles then headed back. The speedo works sometimes, it wasn’t working on the way to the gas station, but leaving it did and then turning around at the end of my 5 mile test run it stopped working again.

Checked it over some more scraped more sap off and then took it on a 40 mile drive, took 30 seconds of cranking to start, more on that later. Again, Speedo wasn’t working, so I turned the ignition off while coasting ignition back on speedo worked and bumped the clutch to get the engine going again. After 20 miles I turned around and the speedometer stopped working so I imagine there’s a wheel speed sensor that’s got a bad cable.

Zip ties all over the car bundling up all the wires and hoses. The exhaust got louder I wasn’t beating on it because I don’t know the timing belt history, haven’t peaked under the cover yet, but I did lean on it some, boy did I miss having a turbo car! Last one was in 2014 an A6 2.7 biturbo, So far this seems just as satisfying, hopefully less headache.

Only warning lights are trac and abs, then a cel after about ten miles, need to find my scanner, i’ve only used it twice in the last three years on my Honda.



Back home, I had a look at the exhaust seems my leaning on the accelerator blew off a fabric and goo patch over a large hole in the muffler. Also discovered leaking fuel filter. That should explain the long crank to start

My only other experience with Volvo’s was replacing alternators years ago on a pair of 850’s two friends of mine had, One was a GLT which led me to purchasing this T5. If it was an auto, I don’t think I would’ve gotten it.

Need to wash it again, deep clean the interior underneath and underhood. Front end & bumper cover needs some adjustment.

[Clemens]

I would assume the ABS module to be faulty. You can send it out to midwest ABS to get it repaired.

definitely do the timing belt very soon. The interval should be 8 years, so you are most likely due after these years of sitting.

[abscate]

The ABS faults will take out the speedometer , so those activities are intertwined.

[454cid]

...Drove to the gas station filled it up with 89 (wasteful?)

I guess that depends on what you mean by wasteful. You should be using Premium.

Also seeing your engine compartment reminds me of how I miss my 99 S70GLT.

[5underpressure]

...Drove to the gas station filled it up with 89 (wasteful?)

I guess that depends on what you mean by wasteful. You should be using Premium.

Also seeing your engine compartment reminds me of how I miss my 99 S70GLT.

Wasn’t sure how sensitive the engine control was, once it’s proper I will be wringing it out from time to time, 93 it will be I guess. No corn juice in these parts.

[FireFox31]

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on finally getting a rare V70 T5M. Please keep this thread updated with your restoration. It's always fun to watch these cars be brought back to health.

What's the story of how you found this rare car? A search of SwedeSpeed will reveal the generally accepted info that about 130 V70 T5M were made in each 1998 and 1999. And post "before" pics of the body and interior so we'll eventually have a comparison for the "after" pics.

You can prevent the ABS module from messing up the speedometer by disconnecting the power cable to the module. It's easiest to reach after removing the data cable to gain access. Disconnecting the data cable is a sensitive job; forcing the cover to disconnect could break the tabs which hold it in place so go easy on it. I don't have my notes to share links to more info about it, but they can be found by search. Do also check the wheel speed sensors. The cables might be find but the reluctor / tone rings on the axles (which the cables read for speed signal) might be rusted so badly that they're sending bad information.

[5underpressure]

Today I busted both bolts on the rear shock mount.

Car was poorly listed on fbmp for $800 I paid a lil less.

The battery I put in it seemed small and weak, it died yesterday while running as I was pressure washing underhood. The only other battery with proper terminals, barely fits in the tray, seems happier, see how long that lasts.

Less grime, still lots left.

[5underpressure]

Started drilling out the busted bolts then one of my new bits snapped, so out came the punch. Both sides knocked out fairly easy. Actually dug up four matching nuts and bolts and eight washers & lil grease. I liked how I could reach both sides of the shock mount at the same time. Ran the bolts from the bottom, keeps outside off the threads. Shock mount was fine just that the step on the shock rod pushed through the flimsy hat another thick tight fitting washer solved that, new tires brakes & shocks f&r shortly before it was parked.

Reverse lights tomorrow, under hood still grimy but better, need to get it up to rinse the underneath. Might do the lawn sprinkler thing, still need to clean the rest of it.



ETA: if I want to enjoy driving it needs to be less of a rolling squeak and rattle factory. Usually silicone spray does the dash squeaks away. So much hard brittle plastic, anyone spray the backs with sound deadener? coming from a coupe the rear noise is loud. New muffler would help too.

Should I just assume the used abs unit is junk and send it out? Is it a simple solder job? Replacing a diode Or somethin, probably tiny. Money well spent to have someone else do it.

Crazy how much crud I sprayed out of the molding but it only rotted that one spot pass side is the better side.