Noob

[scot850]

Rattling dash is unfortunately likely broken plastic dash mounts. Plenty on that subject. I have rebuilt a few and have 2 mor in the garage to repair for spares.

Neil.

[erikv11]

ABS repair is mostly reflowing solder joints. Most people have trouble learning how to separate and close the case cleanly. An advantage of sending it to midwest https://midwest-abs.com is they know what to look for on the inside, have repaired so many now.

[FireFox31]

Midwest ABS may have "blemished" units (from people who didn't know how to open the case) for a significant discount, though a warranty shorter than lifetime. I have one of those in a car and it seems fine.

[5underpressure]

I assume I can drive it without the module in place? Just no Speedo, unfortunately, the spare unit that the previous owner left is ABS only, Midwest has a lifetime supply of those. I’m gonna send it to him anyway. Had it been the correct unit he would’ve given me a hefty discount. Boo

Popped a code for low voltage after leaving the battery hooked up for an hour, needing a jump pack to start. Lights would stay dim till 3000rpm. Alt is going to the rebuild shop. Also popped p0500 for speed sensor, I’m gonna wait till the abs unit is repaired.

Need to jumper the wires for the reverse lights and see if the switch is bad.

Been reading about the pcv problems. It does puff a bit out the dipstick tube with the stick removed. Gets the stink inside driving with the windows up.

Do these clutches have a restrictor on the hydraulic line? Grabbing 2nd is a bit soft after winding out 1st but I’m sure the clutch is due to be replaced. No slipping at low speed and high gear.

Need to mess with the seat, maybe just my bad posture, but I want another inch or so of legroom.

[454cid]

I assume I can drive it without the module in place? Just no Speedo...

I think I drove my 96 without the module in place and still had a working speedometer. My main concern was getting water in the open connector.

[FireFox31]

I am driving without mine connected to power but the data line is connected. Speedometer works. I don't know if it would work with the data line disconnected.

Odd problem of driving without a speedometer: The car's odometer mileage does not increase. Yet, the odometer stored in the computer accessible by VIDA (the official Volvo computer) does increase. So there will be a weird mismatch between the visible and non-visible odometers. This is probably irrelevant to everyone everywhere but for a rare V70 T5M, I would not mess with it, wanting those numbers to match.

It's fun and moderately involved to replace the PCV system and clean the oil drain ports on the engine. Here are some links to procedures, from my notes:
"The orifice in the intake manifold and the filter at the end of the PCV hose in the air cleaner should be inspected at 60k mi and every 30k mi thereafter," per manual.
Do every five years, per MVS.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/tag/pcv
1998 turbo - viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28487 Includes PTC nipple cleaning.
1999+ - viewtopic.php?f=1&t=55413 Not for you but might provide some more insights.
The Haynes procedure in section 4B.7 is for a 1998 with a different design. The intake manifold procedure is in section 4A.12. The fuel rail procedure is in section 4A.10.
The PCV glove test: "idle the car, remove the oil filler cap up top, and put a disposable glove tight over the fill hole and see if contracts (good) or expands (bad)."

Be extra careful when reinstalling the intake manifold to properly seat the gasket and not damage it. I've somehow messed this up twice (on 2000 non-turbo cars). A slight gap in the manifold would gradually get worse, letting in unmetered air, getting worse over six months until the car idled terribly, stalled while coming to a stop, and more. I will eventually start a new thread here to discuss it.

The hardest part of the PCV job (at least on the 2000, may be different on 1998) is getting the air intake off with the hard fuel line in the way. The line is threaded through the intake and it requires rotating the intake just right to pull it off. I think the 1998 fuel line may be different. And the 1998 may have the dreaded "banjo bolt". Check the links above for more good info.

And use the MVS Amazon Link to buy the Haynes manual for the P80. It's worth every penny. It's written in British English so some terms may be unfamiliar, but it's got great info. The hardcover version is nice if you can track it down, perhaps on eBay.