What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[scot850]

The rear suspension also has an aluminum block that likes to crack with age:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 13-9181014

The 2 long bolt holes can split and allow the rear axle to rattle.

Neil.

[abscate]

Skandix have been finding alternate parts for older Volvo's for years. Generally speaking their parts are good. As to the other option it would be good to know for the older P80's (850's) if the VW/BMW part works as well as it may give as an option going forward. Not sure what that price translates to in US$.

Neil.

Thanks, I'll most likely get a known brand from a BMW specialist shop I know and report back. Won't be any time soon though. The E46 apparently had a similar story with at least one fuel return revision so it's highly probable that the other returns also have an equivalent. 3 bar, 1:1 rising rate seems to be relatively common.

What is the rising rate on an FPR?

Is it the ratio of the change in fuel pressure to the range in manifold pressure?

[abscate]

Missed mine, made it to OKC last night!

[RedBrickCollector]

What is the rising rate on an FPR?

Is it the ratio of the change in fuel pressure to the range in manifold pressure?

Yes. 1:1 means the pressure change is direct. Vacuum lessens fuel pressure and boost adds fuel pressure.

[xanthefin]

People with 70 series years 98 to 00.


Does the Fuel cap / lid stay open momentarily if you lock the doors with remote?

[scot850]

I am still hoping to get back to repairing the dash top sections with the 4 mounts and reinforcing them. I am taking notes and pictures as I go and will document when I finish.

Unfortunately is has just been a really busy time with help requests from local Volvo owners which is taking up a lot of time. Looking for parts for newer cars is really time consuming as the information on Volvo dealer parts sites are incomplete or vague at best.

For example we need a trans for a 2013 XC60 T6 AWD as a local repair shop managed to break the OE axle in the trans trying to remove it for replacement. Apparently not unheard of. Bottom line the only way to fix is a replacement trans. That is where the fun started as the dealer site has 6 trans options that come up even when using the Vin#?? Fortunately I have a very helpful parts guy in a local dealership and he has been a god send. He identified the correct transmission part number after a bunch of research. However, when I looked up the part number it was not listed as an option on Volvo of Toronto website?? Turns out the part number has bee changed twice since it was fitted originally on 2013. From that I was able to back track it to finally find the other parts we need for the swap. So now we need to get the parts ordered. There are also 2 special tools needed for the trans seals we are replacing and another one for turning the crank to undo the torque converter bolts. Even after we swap the trans it will have to go back to the dealer to get the adaptives reset. No.1 reason for not liking newer Volvos!

The a request to find a steering rack for a 2015 V60 T5. Could only find one available as a rebuild in Canada other than OE Volvo ones at around $1700 CDN!! Finally discovered there are potentially 4 different rack options which depend on the 4th and 5th digits on the Vin#!
2nd reason for not liking newer cars. My older Vida version does not cover them!

Also the local dealer parts guy was very helpful and also identified the actual part number. Found our friends at Erie Vo-Vo have several with lifetime warranties and $250 US shipped. There is the risk of UPS shipping breaking it and the there rip off charges over the border but still way under the dealer new price.

Parts sent to Edmonton to a recently acquired 850 by the owner. Parts ID'd and sent from my stash.

Chasing answers from Xemodex on an ETM I found at the junkyard. Trying to figure out why it had the Magneti Marelli sensor on one end and the Xemodex on the other. Turns out that how they did that a long time ago. So that is cleaned up and ready to go shortly to a new owner. Xemodex were of little help as they could not find info on wither this ETM or even mine which I know was bought direct from them.

I also picked up a timing belt kit from another Volvo owner who had bought it to fit to a C30 but discovered it had had one recently fitted. Super nice guy who has 7 x 850's. I think he said 4 runners and 3 parts cars. C30 was sold so timing kit not needed. Turned out that the kit was bought from someone else and had a belt date of 2017. So belt is already 7+ years old. I will junk it and paid only for the tensioner and idler which I will keep for the XC70 belt change next year.

All that there is left to clear the bench again is to test the P80 amplifier and cable and then either return the amp if bad or stash if good. It will need a little paint on the casing as they often get rusty on the lower edges due to snow draining down into the rear footwell.

Then the dash top repairs which are now needing just glued and screwed as the strengthening brackets are already made for both of them.

Neil.

[RedBrickCollector]

Can't wait for more dashboard fix ideas.

In the meantime I'm having a wiper issue that doesn't seem to be the common no contact issue (or at least not just that)

My wipers seem to "lose sync", the driver's side occasionally having significant delay, to the point it hits the other wiper

[scot850]

Remove the wiper mechanism and motor (the whole unit). Read why below!

The wiper harms are splined but very soft aluminum in the arms. If they are loose or not torque enough the come loose and wear out inside the arm itself and then they don't grip properly.

You will need another wiper arm and remove the originals. Carefully clean the splines on the motor shaft where the arm fits to clean the splines out. Don't go crazy as you can damage them. You can try doing this while the motor is on the car, but it may be easier to remove. As you have to remove the arms anyway, you can remove the 5 or so T25 screws holding the plastic motor cover on (you have to remove the fuse box lid as well).

The motor is held on by 2 or 3 10mm socket head bolts. Slide it towards the fender on the LHS, remove the harness clip and it comes out.

While it is out, take the opportunity to remove the 2 wiper motor splined shafts and clean them out and regrease. The grease goes dry and they get 'sticky'. I recall they have a small c-clip on the top to remove and then may need a little tap with a mallet to get the arms out.
Mark the motor connecting arms as to where they are positioned so you can return them to the right place once you re-install the shafts.

Until you get a new arm, you can try putting a small piece of aluminum foil under the arms cupped head and and around the motor arm splines and tighten the arm down. This sometimes gives a temporary fix to allow you to use the wipers.

If you can you can also 'upgrade' to V/S70 arms as they give a better wipe than the 850 and don't catch on the hood.

Neil.

[jsrnsis]

People with 70 series years 98 to 00.


Does the Fuel cap / lid stay open momentarily if you lock the doors with remote?

Not sure what you mean, do you mean it pops back open or if you leave it ajar? I always click mine back into place after filling up and it stays that way until I pull the release.

[scot850]

I think he may mean does the flap lock. It should lock as you can only release it from the door release switch. The actuator should lock it again when you close the fuel flap.

Now I have to go check. Darn......!

Neil.