What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[abscate]

Back from Switzerland. It’s a bad day when Swiss trains break , and NJT runs perfectly.

Rejected takeoff out of ZRH. lot of upset people

[foggydogg]

Back from Switzerland. It’s a bad day when Swiss trains break , and NJT runs perfectly.

Rejected takeoff out of ZRH. lot of upset people

Rejected takeoffs are extremely rare, and are always preferable to the alternate result. Depending on the indicated airspeed at initiation there can be a cooldown period for the brakes, and careful taxi procedures to keep from losing the thermal plug on the tires.
It wasn't nearly as exciting for you as it was for the two folks up front.

[abscate]

Somewhere on the webs is a fully loaded 747 rejecting a takeoff at v1 and only using brakes to stop.

To pass the FARS you aren’t allowed a brake fire for at least one minute , but all the tires lost their melt plugs and deflated slowly.

We weren’t that close to V1 and had full reverse thrust of course.

My cabin went pretty hysterical , and I just said calmly, it’s a rejected takeoff, probably just a wrong light came on in the cockpit.

Turns out I was right! Hydraulic pressure warning.

We checked and cleared paperwork in an hour but lost out slot into EWR

The big question is , what Volvo parts will I buy with my EU261 compensation ?

[xanthefin]

Somewhere on the webs is a fully loaded 747 rejecting a takeoff at v1 and only using brakes to stop.

To pass the FARS you aren’t allowed a brake fire for at least one minute , but all the tires lost their melt plugs and deflated slowly.

We weren’t that close to V1 and had full reverse thrust of course.

My cabin went pretty hysterical , and I just said calmly, it’s a rejected takeoff, probably just a wrong light came on in the cockpit.

Turns out I was right! Hydraulic pressure warning.

We checked and cleared paperwork in an hour but lost out slot into EWR

The big question is , what Volvo parts will I buy with my EU261 compensation ?

In case of Boeings doesn't they use doors too to stop more efficiently these days?

[bmdubya1198]

Somewhere on the webs is a fully loaded 747 rejecting a takeoff at v1 and only using brakes to stop.

To pass the FARS you aren’t allowed a brake fire for at least one minute , but all the tires lost their melt plugs and deflated slowly.

We weren’t that close to V1 and had full reverse thrust of course.

My cabin went pretty hysterical , and I just said calmly, it’s a rejected takeoff, probably just a wrong light came on in the cockpit.

Turns out I was right! Hydraulic pressure warning.

We checked and cleared paperwork in an hour but lost out slot into EWR

The big question is , what Volvo parts will I buy with my EU261 compensation ?

In case of Boeings doesn't they use doors too to stop more efficiently these days?

[brunocerous]

Took a most unpleasant air-cooled trip into Manhattan with the kids and decided it’s time to finally fix the AC in Blue Steel. (The approach to the Holland Tunnel from the New Jersey side is as close to an experience of misery as we’ve had in a long time. Lately, we’ve been taken mass transit and have lucked out with perfectly good service.)

Should I simply aim to replace everything, or are there parts I should inspect and test first?

Also fired up the Silver Bullet while out in Queens, and it runs beautifully. No coolant leak this time but will have to return to diagnose later.

It’s also got the equivalent of acid reflux, as it wouldn’t take fuel at the gas station. I remember seeing a post here about it but couldn’t find it.

[foggydogg]

Should I simply aim to replace everything, or are there parts I should inspect and test first?

If it's just low on 134, put in a can with the dye pack and check for leaks at all the o-ring spots. If you have access to a sniffer, or one of the parts places has a loaner, that can be instructional too. If the sniffer goes off around the air box/cabin filter area then you're in for a deep dive under the dash. Dead compressors are rare but happen.
"Replace everything..." in my case would exceed the actual cash value of anything in my fleet ( with one exception.)

[abscate]

You can pretty much count o the evaporator being toasted in the p80s in these times. It’s a big dash out job but it’s stupid labor . Spread it out over a couple weekends so you have time to glue and fix the dash mounts too.

I’ve got room at stony brook garage , too

[hausmeister]

Quick qestion: Rear door window: I noticed it was a bit askew sometimes, took the door apart and noticed one of the guides was not attached to the window, actually truned upside down.
I put some sealant/glue on the rail and struck the window glass back in.
Good idea or bad idea?

Someone was in there already, either they put it together wrong or it came apart.

[pfmet]

Finally recharged the AC from 0 psi I’m assuming. Last time I tried charging it, 3 4 or5 years ago, the compressor wouldn’t come on indicating critically low pressure and then I’d read if the pressure gets that low the system will get moisture in it and should be properly serviced (repaired), a new drier installed, then evacuated and recharged by the book. Made sense to me so it’s been many summers and fortunately as it is not a daily driver we’ve not suffered the heat while driving. My Sierra and my wife’s Outback both have good AC. Touch wood.., However a new friend who is a Euro car, including lots of Volvo, pro said to go ahead and jump the low pressure switch and charge it up. The PAG oil usually all settles into the compressor and the amount of moisture shouldn’t present any problem, if you get around to fixing it correctly in the near (define near) future. Previous recharges lasted for a full season. Yearly charges of less than 12 ozs worked for many years. So now it’s blowing air at delta 40+, 35 deg @ 78 ambient this afternoon with 33 psi on auto parts store recharge hose gauge. Took ~2 1/2 cans refrigerant, so approximately 29 ozs,and we’ll see how the pressure holds this time.

Any thoughts on potential for damaging the compressor from this aforementioned moisture issue? I’m sure the evaporator is the likely culprit and the drier should be replaced at the rebuild anyway but is it safe to run it this way till I get around tuit? Next is the front passenger side window clips, I’m thinking, as the window only goes down now about 8” and jams. I’d call them sliders but I see they’re referred to as clips, so, pulling door panels. A new adventure. As always, best with all your projects and thanks for my input. Peter